A luna moth mock up

I’ve been working on the toile for the luna moth dress.

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My design inspiration
I draped a pattern on Isabelle based on Janet Arnold’s 1910 evening gown:
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From the London Museum, which I think no longer exists. I wonder what happened to the dress?
Draping that mini-pigeon breast was a bit of a hassle, but I got there in the end!
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I used my new draping technique. I purposely turned the toile fabric both right side and wrong side out, so you can see the way the pieces overlap over one another.

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Pigeon breast!
I even made up a quick draft of the sleeves. I’m going to refine the shape, but the general idea is there:
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With a successful pattern draped, I made a toile, and tried it on:
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Not a bad fit, if it does give me the impression of having a rather large mono-bosom!
The sleeves need a bit of tweaking. I tried them on with a sash, and now I am torn about how to combine my fabrics.
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These are my fabrics: a plum-rose silk velvet, celadon green silk chiffon (which I think I am going to dye slightly bolder and greener), and shot green taffeta.
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In addition to my inspirations (above), I’m using the red dress on the left.

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So, with the luna moth, my fabrics, and the red dress in mind, what fabrics should I use for what parts of the dress? Shot green taffeta for the under-bodice, velvet for the sash, and chiffon for the rest? I’m worried that the purple of the velvet will divide my body up?
And what about the velvet band around the knees? Would that in purple really break it up too much?
It's very calm over here, why not leave a comment?

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Meet the Dreamstress

Leimomi Oakes is the Dreamstress, a textile historian, seamstress, designer, speaker and museum professional. Leimomi is available for educational and entertaining presentations, textile and fashion advice, special commissions and events. Click to learn more

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