After two toiles, and three re-pleatings/readjusting of the sleeves, Ninon’s sleeves are done.
Or at least I’m happy enough with them to let them go for one wearing while I re-assess them. So typically me!
I pleated the top of the sleeves with soft knife pleats. It’s less controlled than the stiff cartridge pleats on most extent mid 17th century sleeves, but I felt it looked more like the softer pleats on my inspiration piece:
The bottom of the sleeves are done with sewn-down cartridge pleats.
I left a bit of the band at the bottom of the sleeve totally plain, as that seems to be what is going on in my inspiration image. I think it will sit a bit better and collapse less when it has all the trim that is in the inspiration image.
I found the sleeve ‘wing’ really irritating. I think it is a leftover transition from the Elizabethan shoulder wings, but as a transition piece it no longer really makes sense, and is just a bit of a hassle.
I’m really happy with how the sleeves sit and look across the back. All the convergence of lines and wings and pleats and lacing is so pretty.
It’s not nearly as extreme as many extent examples, but modern posture has changed so much it has to be.
So, that’s the last of my actual construction done! Now all that is needed is trim, and I am done, done, done. Squee!