Remember how I cut out and started an 18th century man’s jacket? Well, I did, and it worked, and then I lost the sleeves, but I can’t for the life of me remember what I used as a pattern!
So when I re-started a 1770s mans ensemble to go with the Lady Anne Darcy dress, I really had to re-start, and find a whole new pattern.
This time I used the 1765-1790 man’s suit pattern from Colonial Williamsburg’s Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern. It’s based on this suit:
The pattern is relatively simple: a front and back piece, two piece sleeves, cuffs, collar, pocket flaps, and some interfacing and padding.
I found the interfacing and padding diagram particularly useful. I used an old linen with a bit of staining for my interfacing, and a bit of flannel for the padding in the chest.
I pinned my padding and the interfacing on and basted them down at the same time.
A lot of padding wasn’t really necessary: Daniil has a great full chest, and the pigeon look isn’t so popular with men nowadays anyway.
I just used a sewing machine for all the basting and sewing of the interfacing (and most of the rest of the jacket). The visible parts are handsewn, but as this was my ‘trial’ jacket, I don’t feel too bad about not being super historical.
The white that you are seeing is the lining, a great diagonally ribbed cotton that I picked up a LOT of for $4 a meter. I’ll blog more about it tomorrow.
I ended up doing quite a bit of adaption to the pattern once I fitted it on Daniil. The arm-scythes were way too narrow, and the chest and back weren’t narrow enough, so I took it and the chest in quite a bit.