I’ve been making good progress on the 1890s black silk corded corset.
I got all the evil cording done.
I chose to use black threads for the topstitching and bobbin stitching, so there are black cording seam lines all over the pink lining.
They are a tiny bit irregular, but I’m letting go of the perfectionism and embracing the organic wobbliness and the graphic pattern they make. It looks like art. Perfect would just look like stitching lines.
With the cording done, I needed to make sure the pattern pieces were still accurate, and hand’t changed too much with the cording. You can see how there is white lining fabric showing around all the black pieces: this is because of how the cording ‘shrunk’ the pieces. I trimmed all the white away and checked each piece against the pattern piece. It turned out a little smaller than I had planned, but still fits perfectly (yay!)
With all the pieces corded & checked, I sewed them together.
The pieces get sewed wrong sides together, with the seam allowances facing out. The seam allowances then get pressed down, topstitched down, trimmed, and then covered with bias binding. The great thing about this corset is that you can do a fitting with it all sewn together, but before you sew on the channels.
In the photo above you can see how the side-front seam has been stitched down and trimmed, and the side seam still needs topstitching and trimming.
I was really worried about cutting and making the bias binding strips, and then topstitching them evenly, but it went beautifully and evenly, and they even look good from the back.
And the corset is looking amazing (if I do say so myself, and Madame Ornata agreed, so it has to be true!). Even the whole weird bust thing has worked itself out, though I did fiddle with the pattern so much that I’m not sure if it was my fiddling that made it work, or if it actually would have worked as it was shown in the original pattern.
Look at the topstitched boning channels and the topstitched band beneath the bust:
All I need to do to finish it is to sew a band on the inside under the bust, and bind the top and bottom. I’m so excited!
Oh, and re-lace the back, because I laced the back pieces before I put it together, and then realised that I had got the pieces wrong-side up, so had laced them upside down, with the tightening ties halfway up the back instead of at the waist. D’oh!
But by Saturday that will be all done, and it will look amazing on the model, and I will be very pleased with myself!