Yay! Hello! Welcome to the Panier-Along! Over the next two weeks I’ll be walking you through making 1770sish paniers.
To start with, check out the Materials List.
Now that you have all your materials sorted, let’s get the pattern figured out, and your fabric cut.
I’m using a lovely heavyweight linen in a sort of pinky-terracotta that was in my stash. It’s got some light fading, but is really ideal in terms of weight and the tightness of the weave: it will support the boning well without being too thick to pleat.
I know I said I’d be machine sewing, but linen is such a pleasure to hand-sew that I have changed my mind, and will be hand sewing it.
The pattern pieces for the paniers look like this:
There are two of each (one for each side of the paniers), and they are laid out as I cut them from my 45″ wide fabric. The rectangles are pretty self explanatory, but here is how to draft the panier bottom:
Start with a 10″ pattern piece. Measure up 6″ from the bottom left corner and make a mark. Measure up 6″ from the corresponding corner, and make another mark on the right side.
Then measure down 1/4″ from the centre top, and make a mark.
Now, using a large plate (10 1/2″ across) draw a curve that connects the three points.
That curve will be the outside curve of your panier. You may wish to smooth down the edges where the curve meets the square so the transition is a little smoother.
Measure along the curve from the bottom left point to the bottom right point, just to make sure it is the right length around. It should be 25″ along the whole curve, just like your panier side piece.
Now, measure up 1 1/2″ from the centre bottom of the square. Sketch a curve from the bottom left corner up to the point, and down to the bottom right corner.
This curve will fit around your hips, helping the paniers to stay closer to your body.
Now, cut out your pattern piece and label it so you know what it is.
OK, hard part done! Now you can cut out all your fabrics.
First, cut your side pieces, the piece that will have the boning inserted along it, two 25″ x 16″ rectangles.
Then cut your back piece, which will sit against your body. They are two 11.5″ x 16″ rectangles
Then cut your bottom piece. I did this by unfolding my lengthwise fabric fold, and refolding it horizontally, so it fits two curved bottom pieces.
Finally, cut the last two pieces, 3″ x 7″ rectangles which will form the channel that you slip the waist tape through. Now you should have all these pieces:
How easy was that? Tomorrow I’ll show you how to cut and finish the slit for your pockets (this is an optional step), and the day after that how to measure and sew the boning channels.