All posts filed under: Make

Scroop Henrietta Maria with a drawstring waist

How to add a drawstring waist to the Scroop Henrietta Maria Dress

I’ve already shown how to add an elastic waistband to the Scroop Henrietta Maria dress, but there is another way to add waist definition (other than the simplest of all: wearing a belt, of course!): with a drawstring. Here is how to create a drawstring on the Henrietta Maria.  This technique will work on any loose, straight-cut dress, so feel free to adapt it for other garments. You’ll be marking the waistband, working buttonholes for the drawstring to enter and exit through, sewing a casing channel, and then threading the drawstring through.  Easy! You’ll need: Ribbon or twill tape for a drawstring – under 1/2″ wide, and long enough to go around your waist, tie in a nice bow, and hang down an attractive amount. 2.5cm/1″ wide single-fold bias tape, as long as the finished waist measure of your Henrietta Maria (measure around your finished dress, or refer to the Finished Garment measurements in the pattern) + 15cm/6″. Chalk or fabric markers for marking A french curve or ruler. A scrap of lightweight fusible interfacing, approximately 5cm/2″ …

Scroop Patterns Fantail Skirt,

Meet the Scroop Fantail Skirt!

Say hello to the newest Scroop Pattern: the Fantail Skirt, a gorgeous skirt with a flirty fan of back pleats inspired by New Zealand’s beloved fantail, or pīwakawaka, and late Victorian and Edwardian skirts styles. The Fantail is a particularly exciting pattern for me: not only is it the first historical Scroop Pattern, it’s also a two-parter, with a full-length historical version, accurate to 1890-1910, and a just-below-the knee modern version (and I love them both!). The Historical version is based on my personal 5-gored late-Victorian/Edwardian skirt pattern, with a fan of back pleats that always make people say “Oooh!” and “How do you do that!”  When I launched Scroop Patterns I knew it was one of the patterns I wanted to make available, but I wanted to be sure you got the most accurate version possible. So I’ve been collection skirt patterns from 1890-1910, and studying every skirt from that period that I can access.  I’ve combined all of these into one pattern with all the best features.  It’s the perfect basis for so …

How to sew knits with a straight stitch thedreamstress &

Sewing knit fabrics with a straight stitch: ‘stretch-as-you-sew’ stitching

Following on from last week’s post breaking down the benefits and drawbacks of 4 ways to sew knit fabrics for the Scroop Miramar dress & top, here is a quick little video tutorial* on how to do ‘stretch as you sew’ sewing, where you build the stretch into a straight stitch by stretching the fabric as you sew it: It’s a great technique, and does work well if done right – the fabric stretches beautifully, and the seam is lovely and smooth from the outside, and can be pressed completely flat and open if needed. The drawbacks are that the stitches are really small and hard to unpick, and it can be hard to control the fabric and to stretch it evenly.  You can mitigate the first by lengthening your stitch slightly, but this tends to make the control issues even more of a problem. The stress of stretching the fabric as it is sewn can also cause ripples in the fabric, but these can almost always be fixed with a bit of steam ironing. …