All posts tagged: 1813 Kashmiri dress

The 1813 Kashmiri dress: bodice construction details

I’ve shown you the skirt construction details for the 1813 Kashmiri dress, and promised to do the bodice construction in just as much detail.  I’ve covered them slighty here as well. I started by cutting out my bodice pieces in white linen, to serve as a lining/under support. The inner linen lining/under support layer was sewn together first, and I checked the fit of it.  I ended up letting it out about 1/2 and inch in the centre front.  With the under support sewn together, I began sewing on the wool twill outer layer, starting with the side-back pieces. Then the centre back piece got sewed on, and the centre back and back neckline got finished: Then (after lots of dithering and messing with different options) I sewed on the white silk front panel, and sewed the side-front wool pieces to it.  Then the front wool drape got sewn down over both pieces (after lots of draping and pinning to get the look right).  The point where the drape meets at the centre waist is just …

Happiness is historical accuracy (intentional or not)

Remember how I said that the fabric for the 1813 Kashmiri dress wasn’t quite accurate? Well, I’ve done some more research, and it turns out it is more accurate than I thought. First, whilst I still can’t find an image of a dress made from a Kashmiri shawl that is darker than the cobalt blue of Salome’s (and I still think that one is at least half fantasy, though there are extent cobalt blue shawls, and at least one extent shawl-inspired dress in cobalt blue), I have managed to find an extent paisley shawl that is black: It’s a European shawl in silk and cotton rather than a Kashmiri shawl in cashmere, and it’s from a few years older than my dress, but where there is one, there might have been more. And the border?  Well, my double border still doesn’t match any images of dresses made from paisley shawls or extent examples of dresses made from paisley shawls, but there are a number of extent shawls with very similar borders: If only my wool had …

The 1813 Kashmiri dress: skirt construction details

I know the 1813 Kashmiri dress is done, but I wanted to share some of the construction details to explain how I did it (and as a reference for anyone trying to make a similar dress). Today I’ll focus on the skirt construction. My skirt is based on two rectangles, each 136cm/55″ wide and 135cm/54″long as they were cut.  The skirt lost barely any width in the sewing, but has a very large hem and top turning, so the finished measurement is 133cm/52″ wide and Kashmiri shawls of the early 19th century are usually between 100-110″ long & 50-55″ wide, so my finished dress dimensions are an almost exact match to what a period seamstress would have been working with. The major change in design/fabric area is that I have an extra area of patterned fabric to construct the bodice out of, and don’t have the lovely narrow side borders to use as trim. Skirts based entirely on rectangles were very common in the first decade of the 19th century, but in the early 1810s …