All posts tagged: Victorian

Rate the Dress: a tea gown with attitude

Published by The Dreamstress

Today was a public holiday in New Zealand (Waitangi Day).  Most people took a four day weekend, so it’s thrown my usual scheduling out.  So apologies for the slightly belated Rate the Dress.  To make up for it, I’ve picked a VERY exciting Rate the Dress: a relatively unknown 1890s Pingat tea gown (probably) that caused quite a stir when I shared it on Instagram earlier this week. Last week:  a ca. 1820 dress re-made from 18th century chine a la branche I’m on a Rate-the-dress roll!  Once again, the majority of you loved the frock, though there were a few caveats.  The two main complaints were about the wide sleeves, the sleeve trim, and the muted colours.  Wider, more relaxed sleeves were often a feature of late 1810s fashions.  Chine, by its nature, is muted, and this was a particularly restrained example. The Total: 8.7 out of 10 Not quite as good as the week before, but still a very good score indeed. This week:  A c. 1892 Pingat ‘tea dress’ or tea gown …

First bustle era dress

Rate the Dress: Crinoline to First Bustle Era transitions

Published by The Dreamstress

It’s Rate the Dress time!  Every week I post a historical garment, or a portrait, and we rate the garment in the context of it’s time.  This week’s pick is a 1868-70 dress that features the full skirts of the elliptical crinoline era, topped by the bustled skirts of the first bustle era. Last week: a Doucet evening dress in glittering gold organza: Last week’s gold evening gown proved that Doucet the Midas Touch when it comes to fashion, because you loved it.  No one was the least bit worried by the implied lingerie-ness of the dress.  It did lose a half point here or there for the extra back bows (you just can’t get behind those, can you?), and some of you thought there was a disconnect between the skirt and upper bodice.  Points were both gained and lost for fungus-y embroidery.  Mould that breaks the mould?  A few of you saw a face in the bodice, and took points off for that.  Apparently we like garments that have personality, not a personality! The …

1890s dress

Rate the Dress: an 1890s dress in floral wool

Published by The Dreamstress

Last week: Last week’s Doucet-does-Cubism ensemble brought a resounding affirmation of Doucet’s ability to adapt to the post-Edwardian fashion world.  The only major quibbles were whether the cape and beading added or detracted from the outfit.  Some of you were extremely pro cape, and thought it made the outfit.  Some of you were…not.  Same thing with the beading. The Total: 9.7 out of 10! No wonder so many of you have added it to your sewing inspiration list! This week: For this week’s Rate the Dress we’re going back to the 1890s, with this ca. 1893 dress in floral printed wool muslin: Muelle designed costumes for the Paris Opera, so it’s possible that this dress was a stage costume – though costumers also designed clothes, and major stars went to known couturiers (including last week’s Doucet, who designed for the Divine Sarah, among others) for their stage and everyday clothes. The dress, with asymmetrical draping pulled over a very fitted bodice, A-line skirt, and smocked sleeves, combines typical elements of 1890s fashion.  Combined with the …