All posts filed under: 19th Century

Rate the Dress: Walking in Stripes in the late 1860s

Last week I showed you a Regency era fashion plate that featured  a decidedly interesting evening dress.  Opinions on the dress were decidedly divided: you either thought it was fabulous (with small caveats about the peplum and bodice trim), or hated it.  And you either thought it would be even more fabulous on a body, or far less fabulous!  So most scores were either well below 5, or well above 5, resulting in a rating of 7.4 out of 10.  Wackiness and all, I guess more of you liked it than not! This week’s Rate the Dress in a little toned down compared to last week, but it does carry on the peplum theme. This striped walking ensemble features a fitted bodice, a bustled skirt, and a separate belt with false peplum. The dressmaker has made full use of the stripes: arranging them vertically, horizontally, and on the bias.  But the striped usage isn’t always what we’d expect: note how the bias chevrons down the front don’t form further ‘V’ shapes, but crook at angles …

Rate the Dress: Regency evening madness

Last week I showed you a ca. 1910 evening dress in pale gold and ocean blue, with a fringed floral lei around the bodice.  Your reactions were all over the place: love, hate, meh, so un-moved you couldn’t think of anything to say, likes with caveats – everything!  And you liked and disliked  totally different bits from person to person!  A very interesting reaction – I’d love to have been in the room when it was first worn, to see what everyone thought of it then!  As it was, more liked than didn’t, so it rated an impressive round 8 out of 10.  It’s just hard to find a 1910s evening dress you don’t like! This week I’m sticking with the theme of rather mad evening wear, but going back in time almost exactly a century.  This 1809 Regency fashion plate for Evening Full Dress is full of quirky details: the horizontal bodice trim, the double layered sleeves.  The van-dyked peplum, and mirrored van-dyking with tassels on the skirt.  All accessorised with impressive ostrich feather …

A swiss waist

Way back in July 2012, when I got excited about swiss waists and what makes a swiss waist different from an underbust corset, I actually started making a swiss waist. It even got worn by a model, not quite done, over my chemise a la reine, for a talk at a steampunk convention (ah Steampunk, such a great cover for a multitude of un-historicisms!) And then I got really, really busy, and the swiss waist got shoved to the bottom of the PHD (as in, project half done, not the indefinitely postponed degree I may one day pursue…) pile. With the HSF Terminology challenge coming up, I remembered my swiss waist, and that all it  really needed to be finished was two more hand-worked eyelets. Easy! Right? Well….you know me. Here is my swiss waist. The front, with lacing: And the unlaced back: My main inspiration was this swiss waist.  I really liked the uber-curvy swoops of the silhouette.  I wasn’t so keen on the shoulder straps though, so skipped them, because there are enough …