All posts filed under: Tutorial

Banner reading: "How to Insert Raw-Edged Lace"

Tutorial: how to insert raw-edged insertion lace

I love lace insertion.  There are so many ways to do it, depending on the type of lace you’re working with, and the effect you want to achieve. When I made the Ettie Petticoat pattern I wanted to include instructions on doing them all.  But a 70 page pattern is not practical! So I restrained myself to three techniques that are suitable for all types of fabric, most types of lace, and allow you to insert lace by hand or machine. The one type of lace the pattern doesn’t cover is insertion lace with raw edges. Embroidered and cutwork lace with raw edges was widely used in the Edwardian era. Here’s what it looks like in View C of the Ettie Petticoat: I knew there wasn’t space to include working with raw-edged lace in the Ettie Petticoat pattern, but I can give you a tutorial on how to work with it. Here’s how to add your own raw-edged insertion lace The most common machine method for inserting raw-edged lace in the Edwardian era (at least …

Ngaio Blouse FBA Scroop Patterns

Doing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on the Ngaio Blouse

The Ngaio Blouse pattern comes with separate pattern pieces for Small (A-B), Medium (C-DD/E) & Large (F+) cup sizes.  This means it works for people with high and full bust differences from 2″-4″. If your high-full bust difference is more than 4″ (or you just find it a big snug across the bust), here’s how to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on the Ngaio Blouse. First, because I’m a massive nerd, and love explaining why things need to happen, rather than just telling people they do, here’s all the why’s behind FBAs and the Ngaio blouse. Why you might need an FBA The way I have you calculate cup size in the Ngaio Blouse pattern is to measure the difference between your full bust measure, and your high bust measure: The bigger the difference between your high bust and your full bust, the bigger your cup size. It’s a simple but effective system, but does have some drawbacks, because it’s only two measurements. I discuss this system, why it’s used, why it works, but …