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Kittens thedreamstress.com

On Cats & Cuddles & Changes

I’ve been very silent here on the blog lately.  The world has been very overwhelming for the last few years, as has my personal life.  While the first still terrifies me, the latter, thankfully, seems to be settling down.

Some things are changing because of what happened and is happening.  Here’s what they are:

First, I’m going to be moving myself, The Dreamstress blog & Scroop Patterns off of Meta owned platforms as much as possible.  Instead of FB and Instagram, I’ll be redirecting my energy (when I have it!) back to this blog.  So hopefully that’s a good change!

Second, if you get the Scroop Patterns newsletter you would have heard about the changes to the free Frances Rump pattern.  Because of bot attacks I’ve changes it from a free pattern to a ‘choose your own price’ pattern, which are less likely to be subject to attacks.

So now, you can choose any price from free ‘Students & Artists in Garrets’ to a supremely ridiculous price with the label ‘Look I just really love your patterns and want to pay an insane amount for this one’.  Whichever you choose is fine!

One of the price options is ‘Treat the darling furball who supports the patternmaker by paying for a supersize pack of cat treats’.

So, what furball is this now that darling Miss Felicity has passed on?

Well, I’m not ready to have another full time cat, but I still love cats and miss having cuddles and something to take care of.  So I’m fostering!

Over the holidays I fostered four super friendly kittens.  They are, counting their heads from left to right: Mimi, Faith, Wendy and Murray (all girls).

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Wendy & Murray came first.  They are sisters:

Kittens thedreamstress.com

I taught them how to be good sewing cats:

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Then they were joined by Mimi, the runt of her litter who stayed too small to spay long after her siblings were big enough to fix and adopt out:

Mimi was well named.  An operatic diva with cold little paws.  She did not like to be left alone and had a VOICE to tell you her displeasure if you did.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Last to come was Faith, a kitten who got sick and lost a lot of weight after being spayed.  She had to fostered while she recovered before she could be adopted out.  Note her shaved tummy.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Faith was technically the naughtiest of the kittens but effectively the least naughty.  She would lie on all the things she wasn’t supposed to (like my stays), but never scratched them.  She figure out how to get into the food bag, but just sat there and enjoyed the fragrance.  She worked her way out of the sleeping cage, but quietly curled up on the couch and did not wake us up by rampaging around the room, quite unlike the chaos Murray caused the night she broke out.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Faith was the first to figure out how to get on to the tops of the high dresser and mantlepiece, but she delicately wound her way through the photos and lamps, and didn’t touch the plants.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Once her foster siblings, on the other hand, managed the same feat they knocked down lamps and pictures, and tore all the leaves off my maidenhair fern!

Kittens thedreamstress.com

(and Mimi has zero remorse!  Butter wouldn’t melt in her mouth!)

Kittens thedreamstress.com

I had the kittens for over a month, and while it was delightful, I was glad when it was time for all the little rascals to go to other homes.  What mayhem!

Kittens thedreamstress.com

After the kittens I asked for a quiet adult cat, and I certainly got what I asked for!

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Miss Connie was a feral or abandoned mama cat.  She was caught when pregnant, had her kittens and raised them to a good age.  Once they were adopted out she came me to continue her education in trusting people.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

It’s a slow process.  She spent most of her first few weeks hiding under the couch all day.  She’s only just in the last week agreed to be out in the same room as me during the day, and even then she’s only move about if she thinks I’m not watching.  Still, progress is progress!

Connie was briefly joined by Hugo, a feral kitten who came from a colony with calicivirus and couldn’t be with other kittens until they were sure he wasn’t infectious.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Before me Hugo had never been in a house.  In three days he went from scared, timid kitten to entitled little snuggle bug.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

He expected at least three hours of interactive playtime and two hours of snuggling every day!  And decided he was only willing to sleep on the finest of cushions.

Kittens thedreamstress.com

He was desperate for friends and absolutely adored Connie.  She, for reasons you can see in the photo below, wasn’t so sure about him:

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Kittens thedreamstress.com

Once it was clear he was well Hugo went off to a foster where he could spend time with other kittens.   Much Connie’s relief as she was tired of being tackled by an ecstatic kitten every time she ventured into the open.  Now he has friends to tackle – and to tackle him!

So now it’s just me and Connie.  And while I don’t get to snuggle her, the extra treats the sales of Frances Rumps fund are helpful for convincing her that humans are good.

In fact, I can hear her crunching on some temptations right now.

 

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Un chapeau orné d’ananas (yes, it’s a pineapple hat!)

What do you do when you make a dress covered in pineapples?

1790s Tiny Piney dress thedreamstress.com

Obviously you make a pineapple hat to go with it!

I’ve been enamoured of this delightfully ridiculous 1797 fashion plate for some time.  It’s a turban ornamented with pearls and a pineapple!

Journal des Luxus und der Moden, September 1797

Journal des Luxus und der Moden, September 1797

While the turban was fun, my original worry was about having a hat to protect myself from the sun for the picnic at Drottningholm and other events in Europe (jokes on me, it rained for every single one of them).

Instead of a turban, I decided I needed un chapeau orné d’ananas et de nœuds.  A hat with pineapples and ribbons!

My primary inspiration for the shape of the hat was this:

December 1799 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

December 1799 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

I also really liked the centre front bow placement of this example, and how it’s a bit spiky and pineapple-y:

Fashion plate, late 1790s

I started with this straw hat, which I wore throughout Europe and got exactly one photograph of myself in, because I kept forgetting to take photos of me:

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

My idea was that I make the ribbons so they could be quickly taken on and off the hat, so I could wear it as an ordinary sunhat or a historically inspired hat.

That isn’t what happened because I never ended up needing to wear it as a historical hat in Europe!  When I was back in NZ I redid the ribbons and pineapples and permanently and securely attached them to the hat.

And the result was this:

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

I used air dry paper clay for the pineapples.

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

It’s a material I’ve worked with a lot, so it wasn’t hard to figure out how to make pineapples.  Make ovals, press lines, roll out more paper clay into thin sheets and cut leaves, build them on from the inside out.

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Once dry I began painting the pineapples, building up colours until they were satisfyingly pineapple-y

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Confession.  I used my 20 year old Caran d’Ache Neocolour watercolour crayons to paint them.  Possibly not the most durable medium if the pineapples ever get wet, but then, neither is the air dry clay itself…

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Once they were dry I used a large needle to poke a hole in the bottom, and then inserted twists of lightweight millinery wire and glued them firmly in place.  I was then able to sew the pineapples to the hat:

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

And that is how I made un chapeau orné d’ananas et de nœuds!

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Bonnet a la Ananas thedreamstress.com

Now I just need an event to wear it to where it doesn’t rain!

 

 

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

The Cassandra Stays Sew Along: Whipping the Panels Together

Hurrah hurrah!  We have finally reached the point where you assemble your Cassandra Stays for the last time (hopefully!)

That’s right: it’s time to whip the panels together.  Whip it, whip it good!  (sorry, couldn’t help myself)

Previously on The Cassandra Stays Sew Along:

Prep & Materials

Before joining my stay panels I find that it’s a good idea to go back to the pattern, and check and re-transfer any notches to make sure you align the pieces perfectly.

Scroop Cassandra Stays notch marking thedreamstress.com

You need a nice strong linen thread for this.  The pattern has detailed notes on linen thread sizing and the different ways it is measured.  I’m using Bockens Knyppelyarn in 50/2.

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

 

Use sewing wax to smooth your thread!  I cannot stress enough how much easier this will make every part of this process.

Your thread will be easier to put through the needle, easier to pull through the fabric, less likely to break, less likely to knot.  Just better in every way.

 

The other tip I can give for this step is to use a thimble.  Whipping together the panels is hard on your hands.  Give them all the extra help you can to push that needle through the fabric!

There are lots of different thimble styles, and lots of youtube tutorials on using a thimble.  Some people feel very passionately that there is a ‘correct’ way to sew with a thimble.   My advice is that the correct way to use one is however works for you.

Try a few styles, and whichever method you find helps you to sew a stitch with minimal hand stress is good.  We all sew (and write, and knit, and…) slightly differently, so it makes sense we find different thimble styles helpful.

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays Sew-Along scrooppatterns.com

Sewing the Panels:

In addition to a nice strong thread, you want to make your whip-stitches joining the panels nice and tight.  Remember that all the stress of pulling the stays tight on your body will be borne by the stitching.  You don’t want it to break!

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

To make my stitching even stronger, I tend to overlap my stitches a couple of cm every time I start a new piece of thread.

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

I like to join my stays in as many separate portions as possible, (side front to side, side back to back, then sf/s to sb/b, then each of those assembled pieces to front etc.), so that I’m working with the smallest, most flexible piece possible at any moment.

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

When you’ve sewn a seam it should look like this on the inside:

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

And this on the outside:

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

And you should be able to open the seams completely flat:

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

The Scroop Patterns Cassandra Stays joining the panels

When your panels are all joined you’re ready for the next step!  Seam tapes!

But first, maybe try them on one more time, just to double, triple-check they fit the way you want…