All posts filed under: Make

Making linen buckram: gum tragacanth vs xathan gum thedreamstress.com

Making Linen Buckram: Gum Tragacanth vs Xanthan Gum

I’ve been doing a lot of experimenting with making linen buckram in the last year and a half, playing with using both historically accurate gum tragacanth, and a much cheaper and easier to source modern equivalent: xanthan gum. We’re getting very close to launching Scroop Pattern’s and Virgil’s Fine Good’s first collaboration: a 1780s stays pattern with extensive historical instruction. Historical stays use linen buckram, so here’s what I’ve learned about it to help you make your own. What is linen buckram? Linen buckram is stiffened linen. It was used in 17th, 18th and early 19th century sewing as support layers where stiffening was needed, such as in stays, stiff collars, stomachers, and hatmaking. It’s made by coating linen with a gum paste, usually gum tragacanth, or xanthan gum, and then letting the gum dry. The more layers of gum that are applied, the stiffer the linen gets. Here is what it looks and sounds like in motion: In addition to historical sewing, I think it has lots of potential for general costuming: particularly for …

The Otari Hoodie Sew-Along #6: Sleeves & Body

The Otari Hoodie Sew-Along continues.  Today’s post is the fun part, where you sew the sleeves to the body, and it starts to look like an actually garment! If you want to join in you’re not to late to catch up with the Sew-Along Buy the Otari Hoodie Pattern Here In the previous Otari Hoodie Sew Along posts I covered: #1 Choosing fabric #2 Pattern alterations to get the perfect fit, & cutting out #3 Sewing Preparation: interfacing & choosing stitches  #4 View A Pockets #5 View B Pockets – including a hack to add binding to them Sleeves: For this part of the Sew Along I’m going to be using images taken when making the original sample Otari Hoodies for the pattern launch. The numbering of the instructions in this post corresponds to the numbering of the pattern’s instructions. 12. Right sides together, sew Front A to Back B at shoulders.  As with many of the steps in the Otari Hoodie, you can use an overlocker (like I am), or a sewing machine on a stretch stitch. …

Otari Hoodie Sew Along thedreamstress.com

The Otari Hoodie Sew-Along #5: View B Pockets

For those of you making the View B pockets in the Otari Hoodie Sew-Along, we’re here!  You can finally start actually sewing.  In this post I’ll be showing how I sew the Art Deco inspired cloud pockets of the Otari Hoodie View B.  I’ll be covering both the pocket construction method shown in the pattern, and a hack where you add binding to the pockets. If you want to join in you’re not to late to catch up with the Sew-Along! Buy the Otari Hoodie Pattern Here   In the previous Otari Hoodie Sew Along posts I covered: #1 Choosing fabric #2 Pattern alterations to get the perfect fit, & cutting out #3 Sewing Preparation: interfacing & choosing stitches  #4 Sewing the View A Pockets Ok everyone excited about the View B pockets, let’s make them up! Standard View B Pockets: For this part of the Sew Along I’m going to be using images taken when making the original sample Otari Hoodies for the pattern launch. The numbering of the instructions in this post corresponds …