All posts filed under: Scroop Patterns

The Scroop Ngaio Blouse thedreamstress.com

The Ngaio Blouse – the difference in cup sizes, illustrated

When I first planned the Ngaio Blouse as a pattern I intended to offer it in one standard size, and do a tutorial on how to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) on it, since the pattern pieces aren’t standard shapes that most sewers are used to adjusting. Then I thought: why not just do it for you? I thought you might appreciate a bit of insight into the method I used, the calculations behind it, and what affect that has on the final fit. The simplest way to measure cup size is to measure the difference between your full bust measure, and your high bust measure: According to this system, an A cup has a 1″ difference, a B cup has a 2″ difference, a C cup a 3″, etc, etc. This is the measuring system I use for the Ngaio blouse, because it works reasonably well for most bodies, is the same system most other pattern companies use (so I’m not throwing a bunch of weird measures you’re not expecting at you), and …

The Scroop Ngaio Blouse thedreamstress.com

Introducing the Scroop Ngaio Blouse

Meet the newest Scroop Pattern: the Ngaio Blouse, a 1930s inspired blouse, with bodice pieces for three different cup size ranges, from A cup to F+ cup. The Ngaio Blouse, (pronounced Ny-e-0, with the e almost silent – learn how to say it properly here), named for Dame Ngaio Marsh, New Zealand playwright and novelist most famous for being one of the ‘Queens of Crime’ of the Golden Age of Detective Fiction in the 20s & 30s, along with Agatha Christie. The Ngaio blouse was inspired by a vintage 1930s pattern in my collection which looks absolutely gorgeous in the cover illustration, but not much like it made up – once you managed to make it up, as none of the seams matched!  The Ngaio captures the look of the vintage pattern illustration, with a modern fit, full instructions (and, very importantly, seams that match up 😉 ). The Ngaio features a V-neck and gathered upper bodice. Back darts provide shaping below the waist so the top skims the waist and sits snugly on the hips. The …

How to add pockets to the Scroop Modern Fantail skirt thedreamstress.com

How to add pockets to the Scroop Modern Fantail skirt

A lot of people have asked about pockets for the Scroop Modern Fantail skirt. I really wanted to include pockets in the pattern.  As I developed the pattern I tested multiple styles of pockets on the skirt: welt, in-seam, in-seam with standing welt, horizontal, back angled, front angled, patch.  Unfortunately none of them fit my requirements for being sympathetic to the aesthetic of the skirt, flattering on most body types, successful in all the fabrics that the skirt could be made out of, large enough to make the aesthetic and difficulty compromises worthwhile, and within the difficulty range of the pattern.  I didn’t want to include a pocket that compromised my vision for the pattern, just for the sake of having one.  So, the pattern is pocket-less. Of all the ways I tried to include pockets, by far the most successful was the back-angled drop pocket set into the side panel.  They weren’t perfect: they do make the skirt a bit more casual, and you can’t put bulky things in them, so they didn’t quite make the …