All posts filed under: Scroop Patterns

The Augusta Stays: Inspiration, or a survey of 1780s stays

Rather than basing the Augusta Stays on one particular pair of extant stays, we took inspiration from a number of surviving stays, to create a stay pattern that reflected the most common and popular features of 1780s stays. Amber used her experience in mantua making and stay fitting to pick boning layouts that would be most flattering and comfortable on a wide range of bodies. She also chose design elements that adapt well to the modern alternatives to historical materials, and construction methods that are moderately easy: good for sewists attempting their first pair of fully historical stays. Here are some of the stays that we looked at to inform the Augusta pattern. Each features the partial front lacing, scooped neckline, and forward thrusting silhouette of the 1780s, but there are subtle differences in boning layouts, tab design, strap fastening, and fabric and finishes. I will admit that not much of this pair made it into the final pattern, but I still love the fabulous colour, and it did influence our tab shapes:

Five for Friday: Questions about the Augusta Stays

Today’s post is all about the questions we’ve been asked about the Augusta Stays. Can you wear them for different decades? What else could you use to bone them? Can they be made front lacing? What about strapless? And why did you include a theatrical version? 1. The Augustas are dated 1775-1789. Could I wear them for 1750s or 60s? How wrong will they look? We’ve got a lot of questions from people wondering how well the Augusta Stays will work for other decades in the 18th century. The Augustas were drafted to create the fashionable forward-thrust of the 1780s, and incorporate all the most common elements of 1780s stays: a very narrow front point and wide front bust, sweeping side bones, partial front lacing, and a high back. This combination of elements creates a specific silhouette: one particular to the date range we’ve given. However the cut and boning layout we chose means it is possible to change the shape of the stays with padding and additional structure while you wear them. The lack …

The Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Augusta Stays

Where to buy materials for the Augusta Stays

A quick guide to where to find materials for your Augusta Stays. There are a lot of specialty materials needed, so working with a supplier who is familiar with historical staymaking (for View A), or corsetry (for View B) will make the process a lot easier. In addition to the ones listed, many local fabric shops will carry suitable linens or wools, and with the theatrical stays your fabric imagination can go wild, as long as you achieve the right level of support and strength with your mix of materials. Have I missed a supplier? Let me know in the comments! I’m most familiar with US & UK suppliers, so a huge thank you to readers who advised me about suppliers in other places. View A: Historical: Everything you need: Burnley & Trowbridge (US): This wonderful business is your one-stop Augusta Stays materials shop. They carry: synthetic whalebone; a wide range of suitable linens, silks, and wools; linen thread & beeswax; seam tapes and binding, and lacing cord; and even tools like awls, and bodkins. …