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Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress fabric

A romance & roses 1916 evening dress: the under-bodice

I am in the midst of madly sewing for Costume College, and madly getting another pattern ready for launch, and juggling the Indie Pattern Month sale for the Monthly Stitch, and cleaning up the mess left by the low-key cyclone (that’s a hurricane to those of you in NA) that hit last week, so it’s all go, all the time in my life.

For the CoCo Gala I’m making a dress that has been on my long- time wishlist, and which is one of those garments that definitely seems like it comes with an expiration date in terms of how old I can be while still pulling it off, so it’s now or never!

Harpers Bazaar 1916

This uber-romantic confection, as shown in Harpers Bazaar in April 1916, is a delicious example of brief fad for 1850s/60s inspired historicism of 1916, with bell-shaped skirts, sometimes supported by hoops, and other elements lifted from mid-19th century styles.  The fashions was hugely inspired by 1915’s The Birth of a Nation, which was a smash hit in the US.

For obvious reason, I don’t care for The Birth of a Nation (it’s horrifically racist), but I do find the crinoline revival of 1916 quite charming from an aesthetic perspective, and this particular dress is so ridiculously adorable.

I can’t find my notes on where on the internet I found the fashion plate, but will update as soon as I can.  The dress description is cropped, but the bits I can read say it is a silver tissue bodice with green skirt.

I have the perfect green silk in my stash, and some really pretty good quality 1950s lace – it’s not the silk lace that the designer probably imagined, but it is lovely, and, most importantly, I already own it.Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress fabric

The dress, like most 1910s evening dresses, would most likely have been built over a lightly boned under-bodice, so that’s where I started. My under-bodice pattern is based on the Laurel-dress under-bodice pattern in Janet Arnold, and measurements and instructions in a 1917 dressmaking book I own.

Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress

Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress

Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress

Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress

Harpers Bazaar 1916 evening dress

Next up: making the under-skirt with lace trim, and the support petticoat to create the bell shape.

Scroop Patterns is an Indie Pattern Month Sponsor!

As the designer for Scroop Patterns, I’m delighted to be a sponsor for Indie Pattern Month on the Monthly Stitch:Indie Pattern Month 2017, The Monthly Stitch

If you’re not familiar with the Monthly Stitch, it’s like the Historical Sew Monthly, but for modern sewing (though they would probably happily let you submit historical items that fit the theme!).

(Bonus excitement: The Monthly Stitch is also run by Wellington Sewing Bloggers.  NZers taking over the sewing world!)

Indie Pattern Month is their annual celebration of the smaller Indie Patterns lines.

There are four themed contests in Indie Pattern Month: Dresses, New To Me, Hack It! and Indie Royalty.  If you haven’t participated, you still have time to get in an entry to New To Me, or next week’s contest: Hack It!

Contests give you a chance to win amazing prizes from the sponsors – including Scroop Patterns.

Plus, there is going to be a pattern bundle sale, which includes a Scroop Pattern.

And something more quite exciting coming quite soon…

The Scroop Ngaio Blouse & Fantail Skirt,