Latest Posts

Scroop Patterns call for pattern testers scrooppatterns.com

Scroop Patterns – Call for Testers!

UPDATE: Testing applications are now CLOSED.  Thank you all for your interest!

I’ve got a new Scroop Pattern ready to be tested!

The Pattern:

Scroop Patterns Pattern Testers Wanted

Wide legged trousers or culottes inspired by my 1930s Deco Mermaid Beach Pyjama trousers – but with updates for modern construction and fit.  They have front pleats, a pointed yoke, a loose, comfortable, dropped crotch seam, and a centre back invisible zip.  And pockets!

Make them in linen, cotton, or rayon for summer, or wool for winter.  In dressy silks and satins they are glamorous enough for formal wear.

 

The pattern comes in the full Scroop Patterns size range, from size 30-52

Sizes 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
Body Measurements in Inches
Bust 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
Waist 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
Hips 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56
Body Measurements in Centimeters
Bust 76.5 81 86 91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117 122 127 132
Waist 61 66 72 76 81 86 91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117
Hips 86.5 91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117 122 127 132 137.5 132

Testers:

For this pattern I need testers who are low-intermediate or higher level sewers with some experience working with interfacing.

You will also need to:

  • be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • have the time to sew up the item if you agree to be a tester for it
  •  be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for me to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • be able to provide clear feedback
  • be willing to agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern
  • have a blog or other format where you share and analyse your sewing

I would hugely appreciate it if you would share your finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers.  The requirement of a blog/other review format is to help me pick testers.   I want to be able to see how you think about sewing, and that your experience level matches up to the pattern.

As always I’m be looking for a range of testers, in terms of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

The Timeline:

Materials:
If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by 12pm NZ time on Tue the 1st of Jan (Mon the 31st for most of the rest of the world).

Patterns:
I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 2pm NZ time on Fri the 4th of Jan.

Testing & Reviewing:
Testers will have until 12 noon NZ time on Tuesday the 15th of Jan (11 days, with two full weekends) to sew the trousers, and respond to the testing questions.  I will need basic photos by this date, but if you want a further weekend to take better photographs I can wait until Sun the 20th of Jan for those.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, my eternal gratitude, and as much publicity as I can manage for your sewing.

Keen to be a tester for the wide-legged trouser pattern? please email me with the following:

  1. Your name
  2. Your waist and hip measures
  3. Your height
  4. A bit about your sewing experience – particularly trousers
  5. A link to your blog/Instagram/Flickr/Sewing Pattern Review profile/something else sewing-y presence
  6. A link to a sewing make with a review (so I can see how you think about and analyse your sewing)
  7. Do you have any other skills that would really make you an extra-super-awesome pattern tester?  (i.e. experience copy-editing)

Email me to be a tester!

If you’ve already applied to/been a tester for Scroop Patterns in the past you are welcome to just copy and paste all the info into a new email, as long as nothing has changed.

Hope to hear from you!

Rate the Dress: Red Velvet Worth

This week’s Rate the Dress, like last week’s dress, comes with both a day and an evening bodice.  In contrast to last week’s pastel confection, this week’s choice is in deep red velvet.

Last week: an 1865 Robe à transformation

The theme of gala frocks is sitting well with you: last week’s dress was another success.  You loved both the aesthetic of the dress, and the practicality.  It may have been in delicate, pale silk, but at least the wearer was getting as much use as possible out of it.  The few points the ensemble lost was for the colours.  Not everyone loved the gold & lavender, or the ochre sash that went with the day dress.

The Total: 9.4 out of 10

Not quite the most popular dress we’ve had in December, but still a fabulously good score!

This week: a House of Worth Robe à transformation in red velvet

The House of Worth may have been the pinnacle of high fashion in the Victorian era, but even its august and moneyed clientele wanted to get the most out of their clothing spend, and there are numerous examples of Worth Robe à transformation.

It comes with both a long sleeved bodice, all in velvet, and a lower cut bodice, lavishly trimmed with lace.  Both are likely to have been worn for evening events, though the long sleeved bodice would also have been appropriate for formal afternoon events.

Both bodices feature the exaggerated puffed sleeves of the early 1890s.

The lower cut bodice has softer, slightly drooping sleeves with slits, which, combined with the lace, evoke an element of 17th century historicism.

The slit sleeves give a glimpse of lush, beaded undersleeves.

The more covered up bodice gets its interest and drama from the draping and manipulation of the silk velvet fabric:

And from a slightly whimsical, jester-esque back peplum:

What do you think of this very festive, seasonal Rate the Dress?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating – feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)

The Historical Sew Monthly 2019: Dressed to the Nines Inspiration

The first challenge of the 2019 Historical Sew Monthly is Dressed to the Nines:

Make something fancy so you’ll be ‘dressed to the nines’ – whether its the full outfit, or a little accessory. Or look at the challenge in a different way, and make something from a year ending in 9 (find a portrait or fashion plate or mention to support the date), or even an item with 9 major design elements (9 buttons down the front, 9 tucks in a petticoat etc)

You can interpret this challenge in the most obvious way, and use it as a chance to show off a spectacular, glamorous, historical outfit where you are:

‘Dressed to the Nines’

(I don’t feel I really need to show you any inspiration images for that!  I’m sure you have plenty of your own)

If you don’t have the time to make a whole garment (or don’t have one almost finished that you can complete) then you can:

Make a smaller part of a fabulous outfit:

A lace jabot?

Lace cravat in Bowes Museum, Northumbria. Venetian raised needleworked lace, made around 1675.

Lace cravat in Bowes Museum, Northumbria. Venetian raised needleworked lace, made around 1675.

 

A reticule to go with an evening dress perhaps?

Bag (reticule) English or New England, Early 19th century, MFA Boston 64.692

Or silk stockings for court dress or formal dress? (my stocking pattern would work for men or women)

Court dress, 1907, silk, metal,Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Louis XIV and heirs with the royal governess, Formerly attributed to Nicolas de Largillière, now unknown, circa 1710

A fabulous turban?

Portrait of Queen Kamamalu from an etching, 1824-1830

Or some jewellery?

Attr. to Joseph Krafft, Portrait of Henriette Rottmann, 1820, via wilnitsky.com

 

Another option for this challenge is:

Make something from a year ending in 9:

Wikimedia Commons very helpfully has lists of major occurrences in art in each year, so you can just click through the ones ending in 9 for inspiration.

The Allegory of Good Governance was completed in 1339, and shows both noble and everyday dress:

Detail of Allegory of Good Government Artist Ambrogio Lorenzetti, 1338-39, Palazzo Pubblico, Siena, Italy, Fondazione Musei Senesi

Go 1369, with buttons all up the sleeves of your dress, a la Katherine, Countess of Warwick:

Effigy of Katherine, Countess of Warwick, died 1369

Or make her ruffled veil!

Or perhaps you’d prefer Margaret Van Eyke’s ruffled veil, from 70 years later.  Or her wonderfully cozy dress?  (I love 1430s-40s fashion.  It just looks like elegant snuggies).

Jan van Eyke, Portrait of Margaret van Eyck, Groeningemuseum, Bruges, 1439

Queen Elizabeth, was, of course, always dressed to the nines, and while her full outfit might be a bit much to tackle without a lot of time to plan, her ruff, or cuffs, or glovers, are all fabulous.

Elizabeth I, Sieve Portrait, George Gower, 1579

Margarita Theresa’s famous portrait by Valezquez was supposed to impress her fiancé (who was also her uncle (ick), just as her mother was the niece of her father (also ick) – which turned out to be famously problematic).  Her dress is certainly impressive, and the addition of a muff, probably a present from the fiancé, is quite charming.

Diego Velázquez, Infanta Margarita Teresa in a Blue Dress, 1659, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna

110 years after Velázquez’s portrait of Margarita Teresa, another royal princess had her portrait painted to impress her future (and significantly less ick-inducing) fiancé.

Marie Antoinette in a dress of chiné a la branche, at the age of thirteen; by Joseph Ducreux (1769)

I’m pretty excited about this ‘years ending in 9’ thing, because it means I can include one of the most interesting and thought provoking portraits to come out of the 18th century as inspiration:

David Martin (1737–1797, Portrait of Dido Elizabeth Belle Lindsay (1761-1804) and her cousin Lady Elizabeth Murray (1760-1825), Scone Palace, Perthshire, Scotland.

This one is both dressed to the nines, and from 1809:

Full evening dress, June 1809, La Belle Assemblée

Your item doesn’t have to go on the outside.  This fabulous and ridiculous fashion plate shows exactly the sort of padding that dandy’s wore in 1819.  Thigh pads anyone?

Lacing a Dandy, 1819

The invention of aniline dyes help us to date some colours very precisely to the end of the 1860s, like this vibrant fuchsia dress from 1869-70.

Dress, Paris, France, 1869-1870, Vignon, Ribbed silk trimmed with satin, faced with cotton, brass, Victoria & Albert Museum, T.118 to D-1979

Dress, Paris, France, 1869-1870, Vignon, Ribbed silk trimmed with satin, faced with cotton, brass, Victoria & Albert Museum, T.118 to D-1979

How about a perky ribbon trimmed hat from 1899?

Mode Illustree Pattern March 19 1899

Or Dazzle Stockings from 1919?

Dazzle stockings, Harpers Magazine, Sept 1919, NYPL Digital Galleries, PC COSTU-Bat-190

And for the final way to interpret the challenge:

Make something with 9 design elements: 

@style_revolution_journal is a great student led instagram account sharing images from their project on the Journal de Dames et de Modes.  Yesterday they shared these fantastic images of reticules taken from the plates, and I realised that many of the 4 sided reticules would end up having 9 tassels: 1 on the bottom point, 4 round the bottom sides, 2 on the top ties, and 2 on the handles.

Now I think my reticule needs more tassels

@style_revolution_journal Journal de Dames, reticules 1797-1804

Or, make a crinoline with 9 wires:

Or a jacket or blouse with 9 buttons?

St. Louis Grays uniform coat with epaulets (1858 to 1860) Missouri Historical Society

Cotton gauze wedding gown, satin belt, cotton corset cover and petticoat (American), 1868, 2012-08-25 KSMF

Nine layers of ruffles on a skirt or petticoat?

1882 dress, cotton chambray with seersucker, Wayne State University Libraries

1882 dress, cotton chambray with seersucker, Wayne State University Libraries

Or nine tucks?

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

Happy making!