I quite enjoyed posting something that wasn’t a full dress for Rate the Dress, so I’ve kept with the theme of slightly offbeat Rate-the-Dress picks this week.
Instead of rating one garment, we’ll be rating a portrait where you really can’t see a huge amount of the wearer’s outfit. But you can definitely see her vibe.
So, let’s rate the vibe.
(every time I use that word I think of The Castle.)
Last time: A 1873 cape in aniline purple with bobbles
Very, very VERY mixed reviews for the knitted cape. Everyone could admire the skill, but you definitely weren’t on the same page about the aesthetic.
The Total: 5.9 out of 10
Oof. However, I’m going to give your thoughts in the comment section 10/10. So many amazing comments! I particularly like “fun and at least in the same room as practical.” (what a great descriptor for the kind of clothes I like), but there were so many good observations. You must go read them!
This time: Alexandra Pavlovna gets her gothic on
Today’s we’re looking at a portrait, and boy is it a mood:

Alexandra Pavlovna of Russia, Archduchess of Austria, Princess of Hungary and Bohemia (1783–1801) in traditional Hungarian costume. 1795-1801
Is that not the epitome of late 18th century Gothic drama? The powdered curls! The trailing black veil! The pallor and smokey eye! The laced bodice and pseudo-religious jewellery! (admittedly this time it’s simply her husband’s house). My early 2000s university friends could only dream of this level of gothy-ness!
So what’s the story behind this glamorously gloomy painting?
Alex was both very lucky for an 18th century princess, in that by all accounts she had a lovely, happy childhood with adoring, supportive parents (and an overbearing grandmother who definitely said some things to and about her that a modern therapist would have some fun unpicking), and very unlucky, in that her marriage wasn’t quite as lovely.
After a disastrous (Alex was literally left waiting in a wedding dress for four hours while her brethrothed-to-be locked himself in his room) failed engagement to Gustav IV Adolf of Sweden, (goodness, how different European history might have been had Sweden and Russia been allies in the late 18th and early 19th century…) the 15 year old Alex was finally (finally at least according to the standards of her grandmother, who, when Alex turned 11 declared “that summer a girl should be considered an adult.” and “It is time for the older one to get married.” Eeesh), married to Archduke Joseph of Austria, younger brother of Francis II, Holy Roman Emperor.
Alex and Joseph actually got along fine, but Alex’s Russian Orthodox religion was unpopular at the Austrian court, and she did not get along with her sister in law. Visitors to the court described her as always “serious and sad.”
Serious and sad is very much what we see in this portrait, foreshadowing Alex’s early death as a result of childbirth less than a year after the paintings completion. There is one happy thing in the painting: Alex did love Hungary, and she’s shown here in Hungarian dress.
Come back the day after tomorrow for a post all about Hungarian dress from the 16th-19th centuries.
For now, here are two portraits from around the same era as Alex’s portrait that are a good example of what Alex’s whole dress might have looked like.

Portrait of Walburga Csáky (1762-1797), wife of József Andrássy (1762-1834), ca 1790

Portrait of Walburga Csáky (1762-1797) and her son Károly Andrássy (1792-1845), 1794
So, what do you think? If you’d been going through a teenage goth phase at the end of the 18th century would this lewk have been everything you aspired to?
Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10
A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.
As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.













