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Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding with Son de Flor

If you’ve followed me for a while you know I almost never do collaborations & marketing posts.

I blog because I love sharing about sewing and history and random stuff from my life. I’m here to have fun.  I’ve never monetised the blog, and try to make sure the Scroop-related content is less than 1/4 of my posts.  I want this blog to be a haven from all the ‘buy-buy-buy’ flashing lights and marketing websites on the internet.

So I have to REALLY love an item to agree to a collaboration.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

When Son de Flor approached me about a collaboration I didn’t have to think about it at all.  Their clothes are gorgeous and I’ve coveted them every time I see them. 

I also really like their ethics and their commitment to the environment and slow fashion.

Plus, they contacted me at the perfect time.

I’ve come to realise I want to teach at Toi Whakaari, and make new Scroop Patterns, and sew my whole wardrobe, and renovate my house.

But I can only handle 2.6798 of the 4 while still maintaining any semblance of sanity and a healthy life that also involves socialising and exercise and a decent diet.  So, something’s got to give.  And what can give is making my whole wardrobe – you’d rather I make new patterns than that, right?

So the solution to not making my whole wardrobe is to invest in ethical clothes that will last and last.  Which is exactly what Son de Flor makes. 💛

I adore all their romantic linen frocks and was so tempted by them, but we were heading in to winter here in NZ.  It’s wool weather, not linen weather.  Then I saw this double slit wool dress and it was instant love. 

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

 

I’ve been really into Medieval inspired historybounding lately (in case you hadn’t guessed from my last post!), and this fits perfectly into that aesthetic.  And it looked so warm and cozy…

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

It IS so warm and cozy.  It’s boiled wool knit, and so soft and snug.  We took these photos on a chilly late autumn day with a strong, freezing wind and the occasional drizzle.  And I was delightfully comfortable for the whole shoot.  

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

The tunic arrived at the perfect time too.  Theresa was visiting Wellington, and what do Theresa and I do when she visits?  Have a photoshoot!

I suggested Medieval fantasy, and she was all on board.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.comSo I went foraging around Wellington for autumn leaves (harder than you’d think – our woods are, thankfully, mostly natives, but all NZ native trees are evergreen), and adapted Hawai’ian haku lei making techniques to make up two wreaths using twisted brown paper bags and crochet twine instead of banana bark and raffia.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

The effect was just what I had hoped for, although leaves did keep blowing into our eyes and ruining shots.  I hadn’t anticipated a photoshoot in a gale!

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Plus, we had the most fun photoshoot prop ever.  I’m the kind of person who knows people who have swords.  I asked if I could borrow one, and the answer I got was “sure, what style are you after?”

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

We settled on a plastic Anduril LotR replica, because it was lightest and cheapest and I was worried about damaging something valuable.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

10/10 for fun photoshoot prop!   I really want my own sword now…

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

About the tunic!

I’m 5’6” and a Scroop Size 40.  I’m wearing it in Size L.  I could have gotten away with M, but I ordered it large because I know I like the oversized look, and preferred that to too snug.  

It’s sold out in this warm brown, but as of this post is still available in poppy, pale grey, and pink (and I want one in every colour!).

It’s 80% wool, 20% poly, and for the first time in my life I look forward to it being really cold, so I can slip this on and feel glamorous and cozy.  It looks great over trousers too!

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

As a fabric and construction snob, I’m super impressed with the quality.  The fabric is very nice, and the finishing details are really well thought-out.  The black edging is a soft jersey binding, so there’s absolutely no chance of the wool rubbing.  The binding even on the slit and hem is such an elegant touch.  Most companies would just go for a coverstitched hem.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

So, highly recommend autumn wreaths, excellent friends, swords as photoshoot props, and Son de Flor’s clothes.  Could definitely see myself in one of those fabulous linen frocks come summer.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

If you want to add some beautifully and ethically made Son de Flor items to your own wardrobe  please use my affiliate link – plus enter the code LEIMOMI5 for an extra 5% off that!

And obviously, this is a sponsored post and Son de Flor gave me the tunic in exchange for writing it – but my gushing would be significantly less muted if I didn’t think their products were fantastic!

Scroop Dress Pattern Testing scrooppatterns.com

Call for Pattern Testers for a Medieval Inspired Modern Dress

UPDATE: Applications to test the pattern are now closed

It’s that time again!  I’ve been hard at work on a new pattern for Scroop Patterns based on the dress I have NEVER worn without someone commenting on it and asking where I got it.

While I think the dress is pretty darn perfect, I need to make sure the instructions are just as perfect, and that the pattern is perfect in every size   So, that means I need testers to give their opinion on those things!

If you’d like to apply to help test the dress, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

This dress pattern features an effortless loose shape and elegant geometric patterning inspired by the Medieval garments excavated at Herjolfsnes in Greenland.

The timeless base pattern has been given a modern update with roomy pockets, fully machine sewn construction, ankle of mid-calf hem lengths, a low or high scooped neckline, and straight medieval-inspired sleeves with back seam and inset gusset or lantern sleeves.

Scroop Dress Pattern Testing scrooppatterns.com

The pattern will be available in bust sizes 30”-56” / 76.5-142cm.  The loose fit over the waist and hips means that it will fit pretty much any waist and hip measurement.

It takes me approximately 3.5 hours to make this dress from start (cutting out) to finish (hemming).

The dress takes between 3y/2.8m (60”/152cm wide fabric, smallest sizes) and 5 1/8y /4.7m (45”/112cm wide fabric, largest sizes) of fabric, depending on fabric width and pattern size.

Testers:

For this test I am looking for testers who are low-intermediate or higher level sewists.  Setting in the front and back triangles is slightly tricky and fiddly, but other than that this is an easy make.

To be a tester you will need to:

  • Be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • Have the time to sew up the dress. You’ll have two weeks to make the dress, and provide feedback, and a further four days to provide photos.
  • Be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • Be over 18 years old.
  • Provide clear feedback
  • Agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern

I would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers.

As always I’m looking for a range of testers. I need a spread of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

Based on previous calls for testers, there will be 30+ applicants in each of the most common size ranges (34-42 bust), so if you aren’t chosen, it’s not that you weren’t fabulous, it’s that there were so many applicants.

Social Media

Having a social media presence helps your chances of being chosen as a tester, but isn’t necessarily a requirement.  I’m significantly more likely to choose testers who have an online social media presence, as that means I can really see and analyse their sewing, and how they think about sewing, when I’m choosing testers. I do occasionally choose testers who don’t have social media, especially if they fill a less common demographic.

The Timeline:

Applications to test the dress are open from now until 10pm Tue 16 Jul, NZ Time (unless I receive so many applications I won’t be able to consider them all properly, in which case I’ll close applications early)  UPDATE: there have been so many applicants I’ll be closing the tester call at 9am on Tue 16 Jul, NZ Time

Materials:

If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by 10pm NZ time on Friday the 19th of July..   This is Thur the 18th for most of the rest of the world.

Patterns:

I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 10pm NZ time on Thursday the 25th of July.

Testing & Reviewing:

Testing will go for two weeks, with a further four days to provide finished photos..

Testers will have until  10pm NZ time on Thurs the 8th of August  to finish their dress and provide feedback.

They will have a further weekend, until 10pm NZ time on Mon the 12th, to provide photos

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and IG.

Testing also offers testers an opportunity to get group and 1-1 feedback, assistance, and sewing tutorials.  I’m modelling our testing process after an online class, albeit one you don’t pay for, because you’re letting me beta test the pattern on you.  There’s an online group that testers can join as they wish.  I’ll also be running a couple of live zoom events.  I’m committed to making testing as beneficial to testers as it is to me, and to improve my testing process with every pattern I do.

To Apply to be a Tester

Applications are now closed, sorry!

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

Rate the Dress: 1890s bright purple body-con

Last week:  A 1920s tea gown in silk velvet

Things people loved about last week’s dress: the relaxed silhouette, the lush velvet, the gold printing, the striking colours, the dramatic sleeves, and the little buttons on the shoulders.

Things people hated about last week’s dress: the ‘matronly’ silhouette, the bulky velvet, the not-centred printing, the colour combination, the cumbersome sleeves, and the disproportionate buttons on the shoulders.

So…a mixed bag for sure!  With ratings varying from perfect 10s, all the way down to devastating 1s.

My favourite comment: “I like it so much, but for the mildly embarrassing reason that the points along the shoulders and arms make me think of dinosaurs.”  That is not an embarrassing reason!  That’s the best reason ever!  I too love any dress that makes me feel like a dinosaur!

The Total: 8 out of 10

One of the most common ratings, and very impressive for a dress that got a 10.

This week: An 1890s dress with a sexy silhouette and an eye-catching colour.

One of the main things that people disliked about the last Rate the Dress was the shape.  I’m a huge fan of the sack shape as it looks great on me (despite the fact that I’m not a slender little wisp with no bust or hips), but I can definitely see that it’s not for everyone.  Because so many people disliked the body-hiding tube shape, I decided that this week’s Rate the Dress needed to be very form fitting.  Historical fashion wise that immediately brings to mind the early 1880s or the 1930s.

But then I found this dress…

It’s 1890s does Hawai’i!

Or, more accurately, this is the style of 1890s dress that inspired the holokū worn by every Lei Day queen and princess, every pa’u rider, and at every hula ‘auana at the Merrie Monarch festival my entire childhood.

All the elements are there. The long, slim sleeves.  The fitted bodice, waist and hips, flowing out to a fuller skirt.  The ruffle at the hem and slight train.  Both a high yoked neckline and the lower square neckline are popular in modern holokū.

The vivid silk is, admittedly, a bit bright even for most modern Aloha wear, but the fabric would have fit in perfectly in the 1960s and 70s.  I can easily imagine a watteau-backed holomu’u in it.

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

While this isn’t a common element in holokū, there is something decidedly tropical and sarong-y about the drape and wrap effect of the bodice.

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

While it’s well known that 1890’s fashion influenced Aloha wear, it may not be as well known that Hawai’i was all the rage in the 1890s.  Hālau hula and ‘hula’ troupes toured America and Europe in the wake of Kalākaua’s 1881 world tour.    The royal cousins Kawananakoa, Kuhio and Keliʻiahonui were educated abroad as part of the Education of Hawai’ian Youths Abroad programme. They pioneered surfing in California in 1885 and were the first male surfers in Britain in 1890, starting the worldwide craze for the sport (Ka’iulani may have beaten them by a few years).  The strikingly beautiful Princess Ka’iulani enchanted both dignitaries and the public as she travelled across Europe and America campaigning for the reinstatement of the Hawai’ian monarchy after the illegal 1893 overthrow.   The Wilder cousins and other descendants of the Big Five missionary families were social leaders at Harvard in the mid 1890s, where they played ukulele in glee clubs and introduced other elements of Hawai’ian culture.  Europe and America were in to Hawai’i!

I can imagine a dress like this being worn by an American socialite hosting one of the royal cousins, or a Wilder or Judd, during school holidays.

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

Day Dress, 1890s, silk foulard with lace and velvet trim, sold by Augusta Auctions May 2017

What do you think?  Are you a fan of this sexy-but-covered-up, sure-to-stand-out in any crowd frock?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.