It’s been a while since I managed to do a Rate the Dress. Not since October!
Last Rate the Dress: a 1770s dress from 1708-10 bizarre silk lampas
How much you liked this dress depended very much on how much you liked the very distinctive yellow-greens and bold ‘bizarre’ patterns of the silk. Some of you loved them, some of you loved its distinctiveness even if the style wouldn’t usually be your taste, and some weren’t quite so sure about those hues and patterns. However, even those of you not fond of the colours could still see the merit of the remake and the lustre of the silk. As the comment with the lowest rating said “I respect it, but I can’t say I like it very much.” But even the lowest rating was only 7.5, so the total is…
The Total: 9 out of 10
Very tidy and round!
This week: an 1866-67 day dress with extremely elaborate sleeves
This dress, in the 1860s most fashionable colour family (purple!) is all about the sleeves and trim.
Day dress of figured barege trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
The distinctive 9-puff sleeves add pizzaz and personality to what would otherwise be a simple, almost plain, frock.
Day dress of figured barège trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
The dress is primarily made of barège (a very lightweight silk-wool blend leno-weave gauze fabric) in pale brown-lavender with a small floral print in purple.
Day dress of figured barège trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
The purple of the print is echoed in the purple buttons running down the front, and in the vivid mauveine velvet ribbon that catches the puffs of the sleeves, frames the yoke, and edges the ruffles around the neck and yoke, and forms a hem binding at the bottom of the dress.
Day dress of figured barège trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
The buttons appear to have been made of the same velvet as the trim, but their pile has worn off with use, leaving them a softer purple hue.
Day dress of figured barège trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
Possible the most surprising and distinctive bit of trim on the dress is the frill that edges the back-of-the-arm seam that joins the elaborately puffed outer sleeve with the simple under sleeve (very practical that simple under sleeve!)
Day dress of figured barège trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
It creates an interesting visual line to the sleeves, particularly from the back.
Day dress of figured barège trimmed in purple silk velvet ribbon, 1866-1867, sold by Augusta Auctions, Feb 2021
What do you think? Do those purple ruffles and puffs win a well-dressed rosette, or, when it comes to the 1860s, do you prefer a more classic pagoda or block sleeve?
Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10
A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.
As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.
I try not to play ‘what would I look like in this?’ as I am no longer a shape that would suit such a young woman’s dress, but it raises a look I did my broad shouldered, shortish, um, well-built life avoiding – that of a bouncer in drag. In this case, Victorian drag.
Given a more slender young person, this look would be quite distinguished. The sleeves are very interesting. Quite simple to do, I imagine (gather, add ribbon) but wondrously rich in effect. I do like the way it works at the back, as you mention. Good shape, interesting rich yet simple silk for the dress. I like it.
7.5 out of 10
Simply stunning. A work of art, pure joy
Those sleeves ! I think it’s the details thar make this dress , which otherwise is nice but plain . The details add interest and definition as light colours otherwise can look washed out
If l were slimmer and it were a Warner brown it would tempt me
8.5
Welcome back! I don’t love it in a small photo on my phone but the close ups are exquisite and as this looks like a day dress and would mostly enjoyed in a drawing room from not too far off, I love love it. Always a fan of purples, velvet, trims, paper bag colours I can’t wear and graceful bell skirts, it ticks many boxes!
8.5
Oh my, this is obviously a wonderful piece of craft and very creative, but OY, all I can think of is Nutcracker costumes. That’s just too much slashing and ruffling and ribboning for me. Although, actually, I think the sleeve looks rather like a nudibranch on second glance.
I hate to be a low vote again, but it’s another 7.5 for me. A flat C.
It’s gorgeous. The colors are quite fashionable for sure. I’m fascinated that the sleeve ruffling detail doesen’t go all the way around the arm. I’m sure it’s for practical reasons but it looks interesting as well.
History bounding from the nineteenth century! Not my fave era, but this one is ok, except I’d prefer another colour combination, more muted trimming or boulder fabric, so therefore
7
ehhhh, not for me. i am amused by the sleeves, with their nod to antique fashions, but overall there is nothing appealing about this one. it’s not horrendous, but nor is it doing anything for me. that buff background colour is one i am not fond of, in or out of period, and no amount of purple velvet trim can redeem it. the lavender sprigs of the print juxtapose oddly to me with the choice of sleeve styling; a solid would have been more the thing, perhaps. also i cannot help but want those sleeves ruffles to continue all around the sleeve, rather than being grafted onto the plain undersides.
but what fun to see a “rate the dress” post!
rating: 5/10
I like the cut and I like the fabrics – but not together. The same dress in dark blue with black trim (or navy and white?) would win me over …
5/10
It’s a handsome dress and the sleeves are wide-awake and ready for a party! They would’ve been as popular in the late 1810s, velvet and all, as in the 1860s. Add a giant top pouf and you get 1890s. What is it with the reoccurring fascination with velvet in summertime, eh?
In any case, even dimmed with time, the dress, on the right person, would have been really attractive.
9 of 10, with one point off for a slightly weak background color, although that may be due to fading
The sleeves remind me of the German Landsknecht. I think it looks lovely from the back but there’s so much going on in the sleeves when you look at it from the front. Then there’s even more when you look from the sides. Other than that it’s lovely!
For me it’s a 6/10 because I wish there was more balance in the design
It’s fun but still practical for day time. A nice dress but I’m not in love.
I’m trying to reserve higher scores for dresses I really love so
7
I applaud the practical under sleeve! This has an air, to me, of someone “jazzing up” a plainer pattern with a separate fancy sleeve, though. VERY nicely developed with the ruffles and trim, including that bit around the bottom of the skirt, and I do love this sort of demi-train, which term I’m sure I misuse. I’m reminded of a story from ( or set in, I don’t recall) a slightly later period, wherein the young girl protagonist argues mightily against a “common” leg o’ mutton sleeve for her new dress. Her mother finally gives in, and she dashes excitedly to The Fancy Neighbor who is known to have a much-coveted mousquetaire sleeve pattern. It has that sort of feel.
8
I have been a devoted follower of RTD for a long time and have always enjoyed reading the comments posted. I am always entertained, amused, and educated. I think it’s time to finally post my own comments and come out of the shadows.
I like this dress. I don’t love it. I don’t mind the beige color and it really lets the purple velvet shine. My big problem is that there feels like there should be a lot more of it. It just feels top heavy the way it’s all concentrated in the sleeves, the upper bodice, and the neckline. Perhaps if there were a belt in the same fabric and perhaps another band around the skirt where that seam goes around it, then the whole thing would feel more complete. As it is, it looks like the dress maker ran out of trim halfway through the dress.
Given that, it is a fine example of its period with a lovely shape to the skirt and the sleeves are really quite special.
8 out of 10
Those sleeves really get me… but only as far as the waist. The skirt portion, while graceful and lovely on its own, in combination with the whirligig ribboning, feels like one of those unfinished Renaissance frescoes–waiting patiently to be filled in, but as yet incomplete.
7.5/10
So much ornate decoration on the upper half, there was nothing left for the lower half! Maximalist bodice/sleeves, minimalist skirt.
I think it would look more balanced if the sleeves were reined in a bit (maybe ruffles OR puffs, not both?) and some velvet ornamentation added to the lower reaches of the skirt.
If you can see past the OTT rufflepuffle sleeve extravanganza, this is a nice dress, though I’m not wild about the beige tone of the main fabric.
6/10
It’s not my favorite era of fashion, but I love this and I would love to prance around in it and twirl around. I think it’s a great balance with all the trim on the bodice, vs. the plain but huge skirt.
10 out of 10 from me