All posts filed under: 18th Century

Tutorial: How to turn a straw sunhat into an 18th century bergere

Here’s a quick and easy tutorial to turn a modern straw hat into a mid-late 18th century bergere style hat.  It’s not, of course, historically accurate, but it’s quick, easy, and looks effective. We’ll go from this: To this: You’ll need: – A broad brimmed,  woven straw hat.  It doesn’t matter if it fits you, but it has to be woven (not braided and sewn together), and it has to be straw. – Scissors – Hot water – A round metal pan or bowl with a flat base approximately 6 inches/ 15 centimeters across – A hot glue gun –  Needle and thread – Ribbon, fabric, feathers etc. for trimming. First, have a look at a few 18th century straw hat inspiration pictures, and decide what style you want.  Note that some have very shallow crowns, some (usually later in the 18th century) a bit deeper.  Some have teeny-tiny crowns, some much wider.  Brims can be broad or narrow, can turn up or down.  Plus there are all the variants in trim.  All of these …

Terminology: What is a bergere?

Tomorrow I’m going to be doing a tutorial on how to make a mid-late 18th century inspired bergere hat, so I thought that perhaps first I should tell you exactly what a bergere is, and we should look at lots and lots of bergere inspiration. A bergere is a low crowned, wide-brimmed hat, usually of straw, but sometimes made of other materials covered in silk.  Bergere hats first appeared in the 1730s, and were popular in various forms throughout the 18th century. The style saw a revival in the 1860s, and the name was occasionally used in the decades after that to describe hats based on similar shapes, though these were more commonly called Gainsborough or picture hats.  A 1930s fashion column even makes the link between the two. Bergere literally means shepherdess (the masculine shepherd is a berger), and the style has a strong link with 18th century pastorialism, and pastoral fashions.  Bergere hats are also sometimes called milkmaid hats.  It’s easy to see how a simple, wide-brimmed straw hat would be a useful …

Rate the Dress: Madame Bergeret with bergere

Last week Elizabeth Hawes’ striped 1930s ‘Alimony’ dress elicited VERY strong reactions from almost all of you.  Most of you loved it (and when I say loved, I mean LOVED – I don’t think I’ve ever posted a dress that’s received as many hits and forwards and new commenters), and a few of you really, really hated it (no, 0 is not an acceptable rating.  It’s a scale of 1 to 10!).  I was a bit surprised by some of the comments, particularly about the colour, and wondered if some of you have really really strange colour calibrations on your computer screens!  The massive outpouring of love and the few strong reactions of loathing balanced out at 8.2 out of 10. I (in case you haven’t guessed), LOVE the dress.  It’s what my 1930s alter ego wore to the gay gypsy bar mitzvah for the disabled in 1938 Berlin. This week I leave the obvious visual intellectualism of stripes behind for a visual intellectualism that is both far more subtle in its visible clues (at …