All posts filed under: 19th Century

The 1890s ‘Midnight in the Garden’ corset

Hurrah!  A few days late because of an attack of chilblains which made it hard for me to hand-sew, my 1890s corset is done. It has the flaws I always knew it would have once when I decided to try a bunch of new techniques on it, but overall, I’m quite pleased with it. What are the flaws?  I bound it in a lighter fabric bonded with interfacing to strenghten it, with a single-binding rather than a doubled quilters binding, both things that students have asked me about.  The result?  A much less tidy binding, that was harder to do, and won’t last as long.  Not recommended.  I also cut my eyelet holes, rather than using an awl to stretch them – easier to put in, but they weakened the final corset.  I also tried a new way of setting the cording over the busk, which was OK, and of folding and sewing the boning channels. Because it will never be perfect, I’m not going to bother flossing it.  I’ll save that for a corset …

Friday Reads: The Cup of Froth

Any book that introduces its protagonist with the sentence “Slim, defiant, Charlotte outfaced them, her great eyes wide, her tender sixteen-year-old breasts straining at the bodice of her plain white gown” is probably only going to go downhill from there. I’m afraid that my initial fears about Marie Muir’s The Cup of Froth were well deserved.  It was uneven, overly emotional, ridiculously dramatic, and a very modern interpretation of a historical period. Despite all of this, I persevered with the book, because the story it was telling, if not its own way of telling it, was so interesting that it deserved my time.  Blogging about the book seemed particularly timely, as the Charlotte of The Cup of Froth, she of the “great eyes,” is Charlotte of Belgium, later Carlota of Mexico.  She came up in discussions of this week’s Rate the Dress, because the fashions she is known for influenced traditional Mexican folk costume. Even badly written, her story is fascinating.  The child of Leopold I, King of the Belgians by his second wife, she …

An 1890s corset

There are historical costumers who like making corsets, and there are those who don’t.  I am definitely in the ‘likes making corsets’ group. I love making corsets – I love the fitting, I love the precision, I love the scope for playing with really lux fabrics that you couldn’t afford for a full garment.  I love that they don’t have sleeves, and I love that even the fanciest corset is usually pretty minimalist – the trim on finished garments is really where I get bogged down.  Most of all, I love them for what they do to your overall look.  A corset is a foundation garment; it is the foundation to your outfit.  Without the right corset, your outfit just won’t look right. I’ve made many corsets over the years, mostly from my tried and true personal corset pattern, which does 1870s-1890s well.  However, I always love trying new patterns, and there is one pattern I’ve long meant to try.  Well, not one pattern, one specific style of corset.  There are a whole swathe of …