All posts filed under: 19th Century

Swiss waist, waist cincher, corset, and corselet: what’s the difference?

For this week’s terminology post I go back to last week’s Rate the Dress, and Rae’s comment about whether Victorian women wore corsets outside of their dresses. The simple answer is, they didn’t.  But they did wear Swiss waists & corselets outside of their dresses, and these can look a lot like corsets if you don’t look closely.  So what are these things, and how are they different from corsets? A Swiss waist  is a boned, pointed underbust garment worn over skirts and blouses or dresses.  Unlike a corset, a swiss waist NEVER fastens with a metal front busk.  Swiss waists can have a flat front, with no front opening, or can lace up the front with hand worked eyelets (never metal eyelets).  The backs fasten with lacing (also with worked eyelets, not metal eyelets) or buttons.  Swiss waists were extremely popular in the 1860s, worn by empresses and common women alike.  In the 1860s they were more likely to be called corsages (an un-specific term for a bodice), swiss bodices, swiss belts, or swiss …

Rate the dress: Mrs Wilton Phipps by Sargent

There were LOTS of opinions on last week’s gingham ballgown, most of them not complementary I’m afraid.  Some of you saw the humour and wit in dress, or appreciated the construction, some of you unabashedly loved everything about it, but it couldn’t bring the overall rating to more than a 3.6 out of 10. There is no clever reason why I picked this week’s Rate the Dress, other than that it is fascinating, and I mistakenly published it briefly last week (sorry about that!). Sargent painted Mrs Wilton Phipps in 1884 with a striking black and white striped waist cincher worn with a coordinating black and white striped bustle and black and white accessories. What do you think?  I can see all sorts of reasons to love this ensemble, but equally as many reasons to critique it.  It’s got black and white…but so many bows…and does that pastel dress really go…and is the pearl necklace combined with a velvet ribband really working…but OMG black and white striped corset!!!! Which will win out? Rate the Dress …

Rate the Dress: yellow and blue for a little girl

Whenever I post a late Renaissance/Elizabethan garment with a ruff, I know I’m running a risk.  Historically (as in, historically on this blog) ruffs have not been popular.  So I really wondered what you would make of Christina of Denmark (?) in her metal lace encrusted dress.  You have to admit, the look had a lot working against it: the terrible perspective issues of the painting, the ruff, the crazy upper-sleeves and even crazier lower sleeves.  And yet, you managed to look past the weird, crazy portrait, see the dress as it might have been in actual fabric on an actual person, and rated it a respectable (particularly for the era) out 7.3 of 10.  As Rowena said, it’s “the best Muppet costume I have ever seen.” This week we go from status and bling to sweetness with a  little girl’s dress from the MFA Boston is made in the sweetest pastel yellow and blue taffeta. The colours remind me of a Beatrix Potter illustration, and the large pockets seem like a good idea for …