All posts filed under: 19th Century

Terminology: What is a picture hat?

A picture hat is a large, broad-brimmed hat, usually rather elaborately trimmed. The name is usually said to come from the way the hat frames the face, like a round picture frame, though I’ve also seen it said that it is because they were considered a revival of historical styles, so the wearer looked like a the women in the paintings of Gainsborough or Reynolds. Perhaps the real truth is slightly more prosaic, and it is simply that they were worn by those who affected the picturesque. Picture hats became popular in the early 1890s, and remained popular until the early 1910s. The first known use of the term was in 1887, with the term appearing in the fashion notes of NZ newspapers from 1888, and becoming quite common by 1893. Early mentions indicate they were also called ‘garden hats.’ Picture hats were fantastic for piling on the abundant trimmings of the Edwardian mode, and helped to preserve the complexions of their wearers. Their attributes weren’t quite so much appreciated by theatre goers and those …

Rate the dress: Regency to Romantic era plum pudding

Published by The Dreamstress

Last week’s 1750s lollie dress wasn’t quite as much to your taste as the week’s before, mostly because of the lace capelet, but you still thought it a quite yummy 8 out of 10. This week I’m sticking with the food theme. In celebration of the Northern Hemisphere winter, and of the holidays, how about a warm wool evening gown in colours that remind me of a plum pudding? This late Regency-early Romance era plum pink wool with gold satin trimmings evening frock is from the MFA Boston. What do you think? Good enough to eat? Does it take the cake? Does the plum pink and gold palette please your palate? Is the blend of simplicity with a few elaborate trimmings divinely delicious or an odd mix of flavours? (OK, I’ll stop now!) Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.

Terminology: What is a bosom friend?

Published by The Dreamstress

To go with our 18th century ‘Rate the Dress‘, this week’s terminology post is 18th century. Our term: bosom friend. A bosom friend isn’t just the 18th century word for your BFF. It is, literally, a friend for your bosom: a shaped tippet of wool, flannel, or fur, and later a knitted scarf, which kept the chest warm and served as a bust enhancer for less well endowed women. Bosom friends were worn from the late 18th century till the mid 19th. They were particularly useful with the low necklines and thin muslin dresses at the turn of the century. A 1789 entry in the Norfolk Chronicle explains the garment: The fashionable belles have provided themselves with bosom friends for the winter. Their province is to protect that delicate region from assault in every kind; and they may be had at all the furriers shops in town. Once muslin became the predominant fabric, bosom friends weren’t just for winter use. In 1802 Nancy Woodeford, a country parson’s niece from Norfolk, England, wrote of a friend …