All posts filed under: 20th Century

The 1903 Chinoiserie ensemble – the skirt

I’m sure that when all of you read my post introducing this project you looked at the calendar and though “wait, you have only a week and a half (less really) left to do this.  It isn’t going to happen!” But look…progress! Not just progress, a whole, beautifully made, and almost finished, skirt! For the basic construction of the skirt I used this fashion plate from 1902: And this pattern from Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques (originally from the Ladies Tailor Made section of The “Standard” Work on Cutting) to draft my pattern: I decided to make the skirt right, and deal with whatever fabric was left for the bodice, come what may.  I drew my pattern out on my skirt: one giant swoop of pattern piece going from centre front to centre back, with no side seams. Felicity helped hold the fabric down: Then I drew a slightly curvier swoosh for my flounce, and pinned it directly to the main body of the skirt, and sewed it on with one raw edge showing. …

A 20th century chinoserie frock

There are dozens of gorgeous historical items to be inspired by for the HSF ‘Eastern Influence’ challenge, it’s cold, and I’m feeling slow,and the only things that are inspiring me are warm and wooly. So…. How about an early 20th century wool suit/frock with chinoiserie influences? I’ve got this gorgeous delft blue wool – beautifully warm, gorgeous drape, and combined with black and white it would look very striking: Problem:  there is only 2.5 metres.  Not a lot for an early 20th century ensemble.  Hmmmm….what if I picked a design that incorporated lots of applique and open space, and used that to stretch my wool? I went looking for inspiration: I like the shape of this, and the teeny-bolero would be helpful, but the colour is insipid, and the fabric too light: Oooh…closer!  Still a bit too spring-y though, for all that it is wool.  Also, do I have 5 years to do that open cutwork?  Sadly, no: And this is too heavy, and suit-y, and winter-y, and would take too much fabric: Ditto this, …

Rate the Dress: 1920s lame and lace

Last week Sophie of Hanover met with general approval, though a few of you thought her outfit was too much, and garish, and a number of you commented on the high shift, or that it was the same colour as her skin.  Actually, there have been a lot of comments about frocks being the same colour as skin in recent ‘Rate the Dresses’, and I think it’s an interesting illustration of the way standards and tastes change.  Historically, being the same shade as your white shift or white gown would have been considered a good thing (untanned skin indicating you didn’t have to work in the sun). Today, not so much.  Anyway, pasty skin or paste jewels or not, Sophie came in at 8.1 out of 10.  What a pretty princess! This fortnight’s theme on the Historical Sew Fortnightly is ‘Lace & Lacings.’  One of my favourite kinds of lace is metal lace: it’s so unexpected, and such an interesting combination of the delicate aesthetic of lace with the durability of metal.  My wedding veil …