All posts filed under: 20th Century

Terminology: What are ‘symmetricals’?

It’s been a while since I’ve done a terminology post, and I’ve got a fun one today. Remember how I posted two images of Madge Bellamy, one in full Edwardian curves, one in slim, flattened ’20s?  Madge’s curvy Gibson Girl silhouette was achieved with corsetry and padding above and below. Extremely voluptuous (if fake) figure were the desired look throughout the late 19th century and for the first decade of the 20th, and actresses like Madge often found such curves a useful attribute in advancing their career.  As we can see from Madge, these curves weren’t always real. It’s not that hard to fake curves in a dress, but what if you were a chorus girl, expected to show off your legs?  Or an actress given a role that demanded a little more exposure? Enter symmetricals.  Symmetricals were knit tights that were padded to create full calves and thighs, instantly giving the effect of voluptuous curves from the waist down. Symmetricals were primarily the provenance of actors, as they were the only ones likely to …

The ‘Gran’s Garden’ 1930 dress

I had my project for the first Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge ‘Starting Simple’ all planned out, and it was going to be so very simple. I decided to use my 1930s Garden Party frock pattern – so easy and fun, and I’m so familiar with it so it would be so very simple to put together.  I would get the frock cut out in the week before Christmas, assemble the bodice and skirt, put in the bias facings at neck and armhole, and take it with me to Nelson when we left on the 24th. Then, as we sat around with my parent-in-law and Gran and Grandbob in the days after Christmas, drinking tea and watching cricket, I would hand sew down all the bias facings and assemble a belt.  Mr D and I would arrive back in Wellington on the 30th, I’d quickly sew the skirt to the bodice on the night of the 30th, and we’d do a photoshoot on New Years Eve morning, just in time for the challenge.  That was the …

Rate the Dress: Poiret Negligee of 1913

Last week I gave you a double Rate the Dress, with a fantastical winter scene and two different outfits to Rate.  Overall you liked the outfits but thought some of the details were a bit silly.  The detail that all liked was the military frogging on the brunettes jacket, and she rated an impressive 9.2 out of 10, leaving poor blondie with her miss-matched skirt to trail at 7.7 out of 10.  Gentlemen may prefer blonds, but costume enthusiasts don’t always think they are best dressed! If you follow me on Facebook you’ll know my opinion of this week’s Rate the Dress, but I couldn’t resist posting it here.  It’s so very festive, and perfect for the upcoming  Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial  Challenge coming up in the Historical Sew Fortnightly. Festive isn’t always good though.  Sometimes festive can look like a bad costume.  And certainly not everyone likes bright yellow.  Even at the height of Poiret’s popularity he was sometimes accused of sacrificing taste for shock value.  Has this garment strayed into tacky, or does it manage the …