All posts filed under: 20th Century

Tea Parties, me, the Prime Minister’s residence and a very good cause

In addition to all the stuff I am doing like teaching and sewing, I have a very exciting event coming up. On Monday the 11th of June I am donating my time as the featured speaker at Save the Children’s annual fundraiser – an afternoon tea at Premier House. Yes, Premier House! That’s the Prime Minister’s residence!  It’s like speaking at the White House or 10 Downing Street!  (well, the White House or 10 Downing St in a country with 4 million people, but still!) I am, needless to say, looking forward to it. As it is an afternoon tea, I’m going to speak on the fashions related to tea: the links between the tea trade and the trade in Eastern textiles, the introduction ‘afternoon tea’, and of course, tea gowns! The official invite says: Join textile historian Leimomi Oakes for afternoon tea and an informative and amusing history of tea and the fashions that tea inspired.  The talk will cover the introduction of tea into Europe in the 17th century, the invention of ‘afternoon …

Terminology: what is a burnous?

The burnous, both in name and design, is of Arab origin, and describes a full, hooded cloak, often decorated with embroidery and tassels. It can also be spelled burnoose and bournouse. The burnous was introduced to Western fashion through the Spahi, the French calvary troops of from Algeria, Tunisia and Morocco, whose uniforms included burnous.  The Spahi began in the 1830s, and saw extensive action throughout the 19th century.  This, combined with photographs of the Spahi troops in their burnous taken by Roger Fenton in the 1850s popularised their image in the West, and started the fashion for the cloaks. Burnouses fit well with mid-19th century fashion, as the loose shape was easy to wear over large hoopskirts, and the hoods mimicked the bonnets that were worn with daywear, or could even fit over the bonnet. A 1859 fashion article describes burnouses: These are made frequently in cachemire, in broad Algerienne stripes, or in light coloured cachemire, wadded and trimmed with plaid, and also in black silk trimmed with plaid, or plain velvet, plaited ribbon …

The Capelet of Yay

I’m teaching a course on making the 1930s capelet that Elise gave me at Made Marion starting this Friday (are you signed up?), so of course I’ve been making prototypes of the capelet to make sure that I’ve got every possible bug figured out in different kinds of fabric. And oh my gosh, and I so excited.  I love this capelet. The first version I made (shown here) is in silk velvet lined in silk twill – the trickiest, most evilest combination possible.  And even so, it whips up so easily and beautifully. And it’s so versatile!  I wear it loose and stole-y, or tied in a bow in front. In can also be wrapped around the neck and hooked, forming a very elegant scarf – perfect over a coat in winter, or for dressing up the ubiquitous (and, lets face it – just a little boring) merino tops of NZ winter wear. The elegant part: The gathered cape back.  It just looks so beautiful on, and so beautiful in movement and lifts the cape …