When I plan for big costuming events like talks and Costume College I always have ambitious ideas of new things I’m going to make, and realistic back-up plans of things that are already in my costuming wardrobe that I can pull out in a pinch if I can’t sew as fast as I had hoped to. I had grand plans of a new 1920s dress for Costume College 2017, but things just kept going wrong in the months leading up to CoCo, and eventually I had to concede that it just wasn’t going to happen. My backup dress was the 1921 ‘Daisies and the Devil’s Handiwork’ frock  (go read that post!  It’s a very good post!).  I was feeling pretty meh about it when I packed it, but it turned out to be pretty much my favourite thing that I wore the whole weekend!  Super comfortable, I felt gorgeous, and I got SO many complements, and tons of people (including lots I thought couldn’t possibly be fooled!) thought it was true vintage.  (yes, I even …

Welcome to Rate the Dress!  This week we go from chintz to casaquin (and I know that’s kind of comparing apples and asparagus…) Last week: 1890s theatrical sweetness Last week we looked at a sweet florals and ruffles 1890s dress which may have been a fashion garment, or a theatre costume.  You almost unanimously liked the fabric.  You were less sure about the rest.  And there was something about the outfit that just wasn’t quite one thing or another – there were SO MANY #.5 ratings! The Total: 7.9 out of 10. Better than I expected actually!  I guess the gorgeous fabric did the trick! This week: 1720s-40s theatrically-embroidered casaquin This week we turn from an ostensibly normal dress which may actually have been a theatre costume, to an unusual high-fashion outfit with theatrical inspiration. This early-mid 18th century outfit features a loose jacket (casaquin) and petticoat of ivory linen, both lavishly embellished with polychrome wool embroidery. The casaquin & petticoat ensemble is an early example of the 18th century obsession with turning lower class …

The Fantail Skirt has been an absolute cornerstone of my wardrobe all spring.  It’s so perfect for transitional weather.  I throw on tights and a cardigan when it’s cool, and have been wearing lighter blouses with it as it gets warmer. I don’t always want to wear something with a really fitted waistband, so I’ve been mixing things up with my Fantails by making some with a petersham waistband, instead of the classic band waistband that is included in the pattern. It just adds a nice twist to the skirt’s look, and what you can wear it with. Here’s how to add your own! You can add a petersham waistband to any version of the Modern Fantail, including ones with the added pocket hack.  I’ll be demonstrating this on a version with added pockets. You can also add a one to a mash-up of the Historical & Modern Fantails in lighter weight fabrics: with the full length of the Historical, and the zip of the Modern, with either style of pleats. I don’t recommend petersham …