All posts filed under: Textiles & Costume

The rewards of persistence

Remember my post on ‘Doilie, doily, doyley, doiley, d’oyley’ etc? Less than a month after I wrote it, sometime in late June or early July 2011, this showed up at a local op shop: It’s a doyley holder! Naturally, I wanted it! But I didn’t need it, and the op shop wanted $30 for it, which I thought was ridiculous, and which I couldn’t afford for something that I really don’t need. And it was an op shop where I won’t spend silly money just to support the charity (there are ones where I will spend more because I think the cause is really worthwhile, and the money well spend, but this one spends too much on paying its CEO and advertising) So I waited, and waited, and waited. The doyley holder didn’t sell. Finally, in January of this year, after it had sat in the op shop for 18 months, they replaced the $30 label with a $20 one, but that was still too pricey for me. So I waited, and waited, and waited. …

Terminology: What is a robe de cour or grand habit?

Published by The Dreamstress

Synchronisity is an amazing thing. I wrote this post in January of 2012, and got it completely finished all save one last quote from Queen of Fashion that I wanted to add, and then got distracted and never published it. And then, at the beginning of August, I came across my not-published post, and went to the library to borrow Queen of Fashion, only to find it was out. Literally two days later Kendra at Demode posted about making a robe de coer and started the 2014 18th Court Ensembles Project. Well, Queen of Fashion has finally come back in, and just in time, because I’ve finally been tempted into joining the Court Ensembles project. I actually have the beginnings of a 17th century robe de cour in my UFO pile, but it’s not 18th century, so instead I’ll be making this: Obviously I mean Mariana Victoria (yellow-gold brocade….rrrrow), though if things go really well Mr D is going to find himself sporting a russet velvet justacorpse. So, now that I’m making one, what is …

18th century shoes at the Honolulu Museum of Art

Published by The Dreamstress

I wish I had a finished garment to show you today – my hoopskirt, or the hinted at 1900s dress, but sewing is not going to plan, and I want to post about at least SOMETHING, and I thought, hey, a real antique textile is as good as anything I make, if not better! I’ve shown you most of the textiles from the Honolulu Museum of Art, but here is one of the most exciting pieces I looked at: a pair of 18th century shoes in green and gold on ivory brocade: Based on the large scale brocade, which is clearly early 18th century in date, the wider heel shape and slightly tilted toe, the shoes are probably early-mid-18th century. The outer of the shoes are silk brocade, and they are lined in linen. The green binding is herringbone twill, either in cotton or linen. The shoes are (obviously) entirely hand sewn. The heel is wood, covered in more of the brocade, and the sole is rather heavy leather. The pointed toe appears to be …