It’s interesting how much certain silhouettes and colour schemes evoke certain associations. Last week’s dress was one a style that always makes me think of Winterhalter paintings, and also the antebellum South. Many of you had the same reaction. The latter association always makes looking at this style of dress fraught: we can’t help but be reminded of the amount of human suffering that supported a lifestyle that allowed such garments. For me as a fashion historian it’s important to remember that, while it’s not always as obvious, almost all extravagant fashions (including those today) are built on exploitation. Most of the garments I’ve featured in Rate the Dress depended on seamstresses, and the occasional tailor, working long hours for poor or no pay. Behind every couturier who became rich and famous there were an army of ‘little hands’, making at best a decent wage that provided a modest living, but certainly not one that could afford the garments they laboured over. Rate the Dress is a chance to imagine a dress when worn, but …

I’m late again with Rate the Dress, but this time for happier reasons: I’ve been working on a couple of projects that I’m finding very fulfilling and engaging, and taking time to do things just for me. So I played Scrabble with Mr D instead of writing a blog post last week! (I won. He says using words like ‘bast’, ‘bodkin’, and ‘mercer’ is unfair and shouldn’t be allowed) Last Fortnight: late Victorian marquisette madness Some of you loved last week’s dress for its bold statement, unusual fabric, and elegant silhouette. Others liked it, but found it a bit headache inducing. And some just hated everything about it: very bold fabric and an 1890s cut aren’t generally popular here on Rate the Dress. Thank you to Daniel for all the extra information on last week’s dress: where it ended up, and the dodgy alterations. The Total: 7.5 out of 10 This is the rating that came up most often with this dress, and for once the mode was the mean. (although some of you rated …

You really liked last week’s dress, with its slightly unusual (or at least unexpected), and quite busy, 1780s fabric. This week I’ve picked a dress with an equally unusual-for-its-era fabric. Will you like it? Let’s find out! Last Week and-then-some: a 1780s dress in Indian chintz You really liked last week’s dress, and enjoyed all the additional information and commentary on the fabric. I won’t be able to be as detailed and informed with every Rate the Dress post because of how much time it takes to write them, but I’ll try to balance quicker ones with more in-depth ones. The main problem with last week’s dress was keeping track of all the 10 ratings, because there were so many in a row. It lost a few points here and there for the fabric reminding some of you of curtains – it was the OG for the look! The Total: 9.4 out of 10 Practically perfect. This week: late Victorian marquisette madness This 1890s dress is made from a striking fabric with a bold abstracted …