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The Eastbourne Trousers – Tester Makes!

Testers are such an important part of the indie pattern design process. They help ensure that a pattern fits just right on a wide range of bodies and makes sense to the average sewist across the world. Good testers help me to polish off any last bits of roughness from a pattern, asking all the questions I might have missed answering. I had a fabulous group of testers for the Scroop Patterns Eastbourne Trousers. They went above and beyond with providing feedback – even in the midst of horrible storms, and hospital visits.  I am phenomenally grateful for their help.

Here are the tester makes!

Mandy @make_it_sew_number1

Mandy made no alterations at all to her View A Eastbourne’s, except to shorten them at the hem.

Eastbourne Trouser by @make_it_sew_number1

Her Eastbourne’s are made in a wonderful wool crepe. I’ve never considered them in pink, and now I want my own pink pair. (this is the drawback to being a pattern designer. People make awesome versions of your patterns, and then you want to copy them, and then you end up with 200 versions in your pattern…)

Eastbourne Trouser by @make_it_sew_number1

Xyllia Handmade Vintage @xyllia.handmade

Xyllia Handmade loves yellow as much as I do – and I think she may manage to sew with it even more often! I really love the soft, buttery yellow of her Eastbourne trial, because it manages to be a neutral that you can pair with a lot of things, despite being well, enormous yellow checks!

Eastbourne Trouser's by @xyllia.handmade

The fabric is a linen-viscose blend (yum!) and she made View A – high yoke, full length.

Eastbourne Trouser's by @xyllia.handmade

Katie @katievseveryone

I really love the olive wool of Katie’s Eastbourne’s – it gives them a real 1940s vibe, and makes them great for winter wear.

Eastbourne Trouser by @katievseveryone

She opted for fun pocket inners, which is awesome, but also makes the pocket gaping issue that the tester version had pretty obvious – but don’t worry, I’ve fixed that in the final pattern! And I’ve added a tutorial on how to do contrast/statement (aka, fun) pocket linings in the Eastbourne’s without any chance of the pocket lining showing to my to-do list!

Eastbourne Trouser by @katievseveryone

The Sewing Goatherd  @thesewinggoatherd

Alyssa also tested the Otari Hoodie, and I couldn’t pass her up as a tester for the Eastbourne Trousers, because she is such a great tester: very detailed, very thoughtful in her makes, always ahead of schedules, and such fun photographs!

Eastbourne Trouser by @thesewinggoatherd

Sadly, no baby goats this time, but we do get a very cool tractor, AND she’s wearing a Miramar top with her Eastbourne’s (extra extra brownie points there!).

Eastbourne Trouser by @thesewinggoatherd

Naomi of Spare Room Style @nommyjoybubble

Naomi has the most fantastic, avant garde, offbeat, fearless style in her sewing wardrobe, and she did not disappoint with her Eastbourne trousers!

Eastbourne Trousers by @nommyjoybubble

I think it will be a long time before anyone else makes a pair of Eastbournes quite as amazing as these.

Eastbourne Trousers by @nommyjoybubble

Mie @mieh1973

And last, but totally not least, Mieh, who went above and beyond, making both a summer pair:

mieh1973 Eastbournes

And a winter pair:

Eastbourne Trousers by @mieh1973

I love them both, but I particularly adore the matching top that turns the summer pair into a beach pyjama type outfit. Too wonderful!

Other Testers

Five other amazing women also tested the Eastbournes, but haven’t managed to get images they wanted to share yet (in a weird coincidence, four of the five were the testers who did View B). They all shared lots of photos of their mock ups and testing, and helped make sure the pattern was as good as possible.

A huge thank you to everyone who tested! I really enjoyed working with you, and am very grateful for your time and feedback.

Scroop Patterns Eastbourne Trousers scrooppatterns.com

Get your pattern here!

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

Rate the Dress: Regency ruffles and really green

After two weeks of dresses that were very much one colour, I was determined to choose something a little more polychromatic this week. But as they say, the best laid plans…

Last week:  a sunshine yellow and flowers robe a la anglaise

General reaction to the dress: “Yes, yes, that fabric! And oooh, that back pattern matching! But…umm…not so happy about front non-matchingness. And the stomacher just isn’t doing it.

But oh, that colour is so cheerful, and that fabric is so gorgeous, so…”

The Total: 9.4 out of 10

Yay for yellow!

This week:  a very green 1810s dress,

I was determined to choose a Rate the Dress that didn’t feature such a single, strong, colour note. And then, when I went searching for the right thing, this dress chose itself. What could I do?

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

Other than the colour, the aspect of this dress that instantly struck me is the hem treatment, with a ruched edging, as well as a gathered ruffle with piped centre.

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1
Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

The hem treatment, with its slight variation in shades of green, adds more texture to the figured silk of the dress.

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

The dress is classic 1810s – so much so that it’s almost a shoe-in for the Laughing Moon 1810s evening dress pattern

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

I suspect this dress is shown on a mannequin that is slightly too short, and that it would actually have been worn a few inches off the floor, to facilitate dancing, and to keep the hem treatment from trailing on the ground.

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1
Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

And it’s definitely a little crushed and flatted, especially in the sleeves and trim department – but that’s one of those things I always ask you to overlook when rating.

Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1
Evening dress, 1810-1815, silk, Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau, M.M.2014.7.1

So, will green beat out purple and equal (or maybe even beat?) yellow? Let’s find out!

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)

A simple Regency petticoat

I’m still catching up on my historical sewing from 2018, but don’t get too excited, because the bits I haven’t blogged really aren’t that exciting.

A Regency petticoat thedreamstress.com

Like this petticoat. It’s useful, it’s helpful, it’s generally nicely made, but exciting? Not really.

A Regency petticoat thedreamstress.com

I based the pattern on the width of my fabric + the dimensions of the skirts in a couple of dresses ca. 1810 in Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion and Cassidy Percoco’s Regency Women’s Dress. I figure petticoat dimensions couldn’t have been that different to skirt dimensions.

A Regency petticoat thedreamstress.com

I have a problem with anything with narrow straps sliding off my shoulders because I have sloping shoulders and scoliosis, PLUS I’ve had a problem with Regency petticoats wanting to pull down in the back with the weight of gathers, so I solved both with this one by angling my straps to the centre back of the petticoat.

A Regency petticoat thedreamstress.com

The drawstring gathers, while I have no idea if they are accurate, allow it to be a little more adjustable to the person wearing it.

A Regency petticoat thedreamstress.com

I intend to wear this petticoat under my 1813 Kashmiri dress, so I sewed 6 lines of tucks into the hem, to help it to support the slightly heavier wool fabric.

A Regency petticoat thedreamstress.com

The tucks, while not exactly exciting fabric manipulation, did mean that I could enter it into the October Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge, because that’s when I finished the petticoat!

The Challenge: #10 Fabric Manipulation

Fabric: 2m of cotton lawn, found at an opshop

Pattern: None, based off of skirt patterns

Year: ca. 1810

Notions: thread, cotton tape

How historically accurate is it?: The shape is accurate to a Regency skirt, but I made up a number of the construction techniques, including the back gathers, so maybe 40%

Hours to complete: 3 hours – a bit more time for tucks and flat felled seams

First worn: by a friend during out Sew & Eat Historical Retreat, 20 October

Total cost: NZ$6 or so

And here it is, under a dress and apron, at the Sew & Eat Historical Retreat:

NZ Sew & Eat Historical Retreat Food thedreamstress.com