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Rate the Dress: a butterfly ballgown, ca 1865

Last week’s purple velvet aestheticism inspired reception gown / tea gown proved very popular, with many of you commenting that you loved it because you could actually imagine wearing it.  It did loose points for awkward lower-front rouching (which I hadn’t noticed and will now never be able to unsee!), and not everyone was on-board with the long train, all-over high-necked-with-velvet thing, or the Renaissance sleeves.  So, for lots of excitement with a few niggles, a still very regal score of 8.5 out of 10.

Although no-one commented that last week’s gown made them feel hot as happened with the green velvet gown earlier this year, this week I chose a dress that seemed much more summery in theme: an 1860s ballgown of butterfly patterned chine silk.

Were it not for the striking butterfly patterned fabric this dress would never have made it as a Rate the Dress choice.  It’s almost completely devoid of ornamentation or design interest except for the tassel-trimmed sleeves, which would flutter and move with the dress, evoking wings, or delicate cocoons hanging from leaves – quite appropriately for the fabric.

The dress has one other unusual and intriguing feature: it appears to fasten up the front, which, combined with the pattern placement on the front, makes me wonder if it originally had a detachable bertha or guimpe, or other form of trimming which obscured part of the front.  The museum record indicates a three-part garment, and Robe à transformation would suggest a dress with a day and evening bodice, or other method of altering the aesthetic or suitability for various occasions.

Without confirmation we can only guess, and rate the dress as it is (though hopefully without subtracting anything for the unfortunate glove choice).  Do you think this dress has pulled off elegance and impact by relying solely on the fabric and the sleeve trimmings, or are even butterflies and dragonflies not enough to make it interesting?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

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Madame O's Rilla Corset by Scroop Patterns thedreamstress.com

Madame O’s embroidered Rilla Corset

I had a fantastic group of testers for the Scroop Rilla Corset, and they all made amazing corsets.

The Scroop Rilla Corset Pattern Scrooppatterns.com

With every Scroop Patterns I select testers from all over the world, to make sure that the instructions are universally clear and comprehensive, but I always try to have at least one local tester, so I can see their resulting garment in person.

With the Rilla that was particularly fun, as Madame O was one of my local testers, and she embellished her test corset with her  fabulous embroidery (remember the embroidered buttons she made for this wedding dress?).  And she’s let me photograph and share it!

Madame O's Rilla Corset by Scroop Patterns thedreamstress.com

This is a test version of the Rilla Pattern, so doesn’t look exactly like the finished pattern does (the main differences are the shape of the front cut out), and Madame O tried single boning construction to see how it would work (answer: not nearly as well as double, so stick to the pattern!).

 

Madame O's Rilla Corset by Scroop Patterns thedreamstress.com

Madame O's Rilla Corset by Scroop Patterns thedreamstress.com

Madame O's Rilla Corset by Scroop Patterns thedreamstress.com

Madame O's Rilla Corset by Scroop Patterns thedreamstress.com

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Ladies Home Journal, June 1910 thedreamstress.com

Some social commentary on corsets, 1910

I bought the June 1910 issue of the Ladies Home Journal (it was the American Fashion Number!) when I was in the US, and thought I should share this fascinating piece of corset related social commentary from it with you:

Ladies Home Journal, June 1910 thedreamstress.com

And if you can’t quite read that one:

Ladies Home Journal, June 1910 thedreamstress.com

Ladies Home Journal, June 1910 thedreamstress.com

Ladies Home Journal, June 1910 thedreamstress.com

So many layers! The anti-tightlacing message, right as longline corsets came into fashion. The message that corsets should be looser, without even a hint of a suggestion that they should be left off. The weird overtones about fertility. The use of ‘man’ and ‘girl’. The idea that women dress for men. The mansplaining…