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Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

Kangaroos & Elephants Oh My! – (almost) first me-made dress

In the sewing community May is Me-Made-May – a month of trying to wear more of the things you’ve made, using them to get out of wardrobe ruts, and setting yourself personal challenges around them.

I’ve never officially participated, in part because wearing stuff I’ve made every day is pretty much an obligation of my work, and what I wear cycles in response to what classes I’m teaching at the moment, what patterns I’m working on for Scroop  Patterns, and the weather (which currently includes the first snow of the winter – yay (note sarcasm)).  In bigger part, I’ve always been too busy with either the Sew Weekly, or the Historical Sew Fortnightly. Between sewing-teaching work, history-lecturing work, pattern-making work, running the HSF, and life, I’m one additional thing  away from dropping all my balls – and I’m pretty sure that what I’m juggling is a mix of ostrich eggs in extremely  fragile shells (some of which are well past their best-by date), newborn  dragons (a la McKinley, where dragons are marsupials, so newborns are really squishy) and pressure-sensitive grenades.  If I start dropping things, it’s not going to be pretty…

So…no mental space for setting myself more goals, so no getting to join in the fun and  participating in Me-Made-May.  One year I’ll have the time!

But, as a tiny bit of joining in, I thought you might like to see the  earliest fully me-made item that is still in existence (I think):

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

The very, very first item that I made, when learning to sew with the mother of a friend when I was 12 or 13, was a quadruple circle skirt gathered into an elasticated waist.  I made it in lavender floral craft cotton.  I can still remember the exact way in which Erin taught us to do rolled hems (the patience she must have had to talk two pre-teens through doing rolled hems on a quadruple circle!), and the gathering.  Sadly, it was not cord gathering, and gathering in 4 full circles with thread may be the reason I hated doing gathering for years!

We followed up the circle skirt with a matching blouse with cut on sleeves (because what every lavender floral quadruple-circle-skirt with an elastic waist needs is a matching blouse of the same fabric).

I have no idea what happened to the blouse, but after I outgrew the skirt it lived on for many years as a cover for banana stalks on the farm.  Bananas will sunburn, so after you cut a stalk, you have to cover it to keep them nice.  A quadruple circle skirt is perfect!

The next few things I made were costumes & dresses for my sisters, and some stuff from patterns  for myself that did not go well.  But I persevered.

A proper Halloween picture: the naiad as a Victorian lady (with a naiad on her cheek), Mum as a 20s lady, Goldie as a jester and me in '18th century'.

A proper Halloween picture: the naiad as a Victorian lady (with a naiad on her cheek), Mum as a 20s lady, Goldie as a jester and me in ’18th century’ – the last two  made by me

Shortly after learning to sew, my grandmother passed away, and I inherited her fabric stash.  I experimented with the less desirable stuff, and then started getting adventurous with the 1960s & 70s fabrics (I was too scared to touch the 40s & 50s stuff – thank goodness!).

And thus, this dress came about:

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

It’s not the first thing I made and wore, but it is the first everyday non-costume thing I made where  everything about it was me-made – including the pattern.  Frustrated with the poor results  I was getting from commercial patterns, I measured a bunch of things I already had, and drafted this one from scratch.

It’s a very simple pattern – high waisted top with back and front darts, A-line skirt.  And I was a very easy shape to fit at 15 – no bust or hips to speak of.  But I’m still really impressed that I figured that out at 15!

I caused quite a splash at school in it.  Everyone dressed in a specific-to-Hawaii cross between ’90s grunge and a dELIA*s catalogue (remember those?) – lots of blue-grey and khaki, but with surf-brand T-shirts, instead of ones with that monkey’s face on them.  BRIGHT yellow psychedelic kangaroos and elephants kinda stood out.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

The sewing is very simple, and far from perfect, but still a very good effort for my age, and for taking the lessons I’d had, and pattern instructions, and the zip-insertion instructions on the zipper packets (remember when they still had instructions?), and turning them into a dress-from-scratch.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

It’s sewn with black thread, probably because I didn’t have any yellow to match.  I suspect I didn’t have a long enough zip, so came up with the button and loop solution on my own.

The one major mistake in the sewing that I noticed as soon as I had cut and sewn, and which bugged me then and continues to bug me, was at least a good learning experience:

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

See the lack of pattern matching at the waist seam?  Drives me CRAZY.  The minute I sewed the waist seam, I couldn’t believe I hadn’t thought about it when I cut it.  I have been very careful about pattern matching ever since.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

The dress is fabulously obnoxious, and it made me happy then, and makes me happy now.  It got a lot of wear in its time – it may even have come to university with me, though I can’t remember exactly.  Sadly, there doesn’t seem to be a single photo of me wearing it.  I can still get in to it, but it would be a stretch to say it fits.  It would work really well if I ever needed a breast-compressing underdress for a very androgynous look!

I still have enough of the fabric left over to make another one (with proper pattern matching, natch) but I’m not sure I’m brave enough anymore.

Do you remember the first thing you made?  Anyone else still have some of their very early me-made items?

Rate the Dress: A vision in lace and gold, ca. 1850

Reactions to last week’s 1930s gold lame Jessie Franklin Turner number were actually surprisingly similar to the smocked Liberty frock from the week before – a mix of strong love, a tiny bit of strong dislike, a fair smattering of blah, and sleeve-dislike.

What do you get with  surprising similarity?  An identical 8.3 out of 10  rating!

I really struggled to pick a dress for Rate the Dress this week.  As a juxtaposition to the last few weeks, I really wanted something bright, and sweet, and girlish.  Alas, nothing I found seemed to be the right contrast.  I  finally settled on this 1850s evening dress, because the gold, and the lace bertha, seem to resonate with last week’s gold frock, and its flutter sleeves.  Next week I’ll definitely have to find something with colour though!

(of course, knowing me, that could be a warning rather than a promise 😉 )

Evening dress, ca. 1850, Silk satin with silk and metallic-thread supplementary patterning and silk net with metallic-thread embroidery, M.2007.211.872a-b

Evening dress, ca. 1850, Silk satin with silk and metallic-thread supplementary patterning and silk net with metallic-thread embroidery, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.872a-b

This ca. 1850 evening dress in white damask silk satin, with gold brocading of rather exotic, parasol shaped flower heads, is trimmed with silk net lace, embroidered with gold patterning.

Evening dress, ca. 1850, Silk satin with silk and metallic-thread supplementary patterning and silk net with metallic-thread embroidery, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.872a-b

Evening dress, ca. 1850, Silk satin with silk and metallic-thread supplementary patterning and silk net with metallic-thread embroidery, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.872a-b

Evening dress, ca. 1850, Silk satin with silk and metallic-thread supplementary patterning and silk net with metallic-thread embroidery, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.872a-b

The lace is used to form a deep bertha that almost completely obscures the fitted bodice and just-above-the-elbow puffed sleeves, and an asymmetrical frill that provides interest and movement on the otherwise restrained bell shape of the skirt.

LACMA has chosen to pair the dress with pearl jewellery which echoes the colour and lustre of the silk, and an elaborate gold brooch which draws attention to the narrow waist and point of the bodice front, which is finished with three rows of very fine piping.

This dress could have been part of a wedding ensemble, but could equally have just been an evening dress, as pale shades and metallic accents were popular colours under candles and (later) gaslights.

What do you think?  Are you swooning in delight, or yawning in boredom?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Mum & Dad, thedreamstress.com

Here’s to my Mum & Dad

Today, in honour of Mother’s Day, I thought I’d write a post about how amazing my parents are.

And they are pretty darn amazing!

My parents are organic permaculture (permaculture is, very briefly, an agricultural and social practice that aims to be more than sustainable, and to work completely with nature) farmers in Hawaii.  I was born and raised on their farm (yes, literally born!), and no matter what, it will always be my home.

Growing lettuce, Molokai, Hawaii, thedreamstress.com

Planting radishes alongside a bed of lettuce,

We realised on my last trip home, a year ago, that their farm is probably the longest-running working permaculture farm that is fully supporting/earning a living for the farmers as a farm, not as a teaching facility or tourist attraction, in the world.  My parents are never going to get rich off the farm, and while it has made them minor legends  in permaculture circles, they will never be famous in the wider sense.

What they have achieved is something much bigger and more amazing (yep, I’m going to keep using that word).

They have given more to the environment  than they have taken out of it.

Even as their daughter, I can hardly fathom how phenomenal  that is, and how few of us will be able to say that.  They have replaced invasive trees that were damaging the environment with useful ones that are feeding people, and  replenishing the soil, and holding it in place, so it doesn’t erode away.  The soil on their farm gets richer, with more nutrients, every year, rather than poorer.  Their water usage is minimal, and the entire farm runs on solar.  They have survived disease outbreaks in plants that devastated other farms, without having to resort to chemicals, and have futureproofed against other outbreaks by planting a huge selection of different fruits & vegetables.

Mum and I in matching blouses

They also made me, me, and while I can blame some of the things I don’t like about myself on them (what child can’t!), I also look at all the things in myself I like most, and am most proud of, and can see exactly how and where they taught me those things.

Both my parents, but my father in particular,  taught me to look out at the world  with wonder: to see the shapes in clouds, and the beauty in tree bark, and the patterns that buildings make, and what a compelling  face a random person has.  To learn by paying attention.  To see the joy in even mundane thing.  To be interested in everything, because everything is interesting.  You see it in my blog posts about walks I take, and graffiti I see, and frozen eggs, and random interesting ideas.  The world is just too fascinating not to share!  To this day I’ll see something around Wellington and wish my dad  could be there to see it right then, because (to use a phrase very typical of him!) he would ‘get off on it’.  I tell him over the phone, but it’s not the same.

Mum & Dad, thedreamstress.com

My parents taught me to love things for their own sake, and because I love them, and not to worry too much about whether anyone else does.  It wasn’t the easiest lesson as a child, and happened a bit by default (as one of the only haole/white children at school, and one of the only Baha’is, I was always going to stand out, and my interests were always a bit niche), but learning it early has made adult life a lot easier.  I’m always delighted  to find ‘kindred spirits’ who share my hobbies and loves, but I never feel the need to like something because its popular – or, equally, to dislike it because it’s popular!  It’s a very peaceful place to be.

My parents taught me to trust in abundance, and to give wherever there was extra.  We were really poor when I was growing up, and they still don’t have much money, but on a farm there are always extras.  Every week they give boxes of fruit and vegetables to the women’s refuge, or the food bank, or friends who pass them on to people in need.  The farm has sheltered many a random traveller over the years, and they pass their knowledge and enthusiasm on with  open generosity.

They also taught me not to be wasteful: to use what you had, and be resourceful.  It was a necessity on a tiny island, with stores an hour away, and not many at that.  Save, and re-use, and make-do.  It’s a great skill as a historical costumer!

A proper Halloween picture: the naiad as a Victorian lady (with a naiad on her cheek), Mum as a 20s lady, Goldie as a jester and me in ’18th century’.

My parents taught me to take a person for the content of what they say, and how they act: not for  how polished their words are, the titles they have, or how they look.

One of the best things  they taught me is to not be limited by not knowing how to do something now: to be limited only by what it was possible for me to figure out how to do.  I might not know how to reupholster a couch, or write a website in html, or move a literal US  ton of fertilizer 1/2 a mile in a day, by wheelbarrow  (long story), but if I thought about it, and researched, and practiced, and worked on it (or, in the case of the fertiliser, gritted my teeth and moved 150lbs  at a time in a wheelbarrow, while walking 6.7 miles), I probably could  (although sometimes, as in the notorious case of the fertiliser, it wasn’t the best idea…).

And they are still shaping who I am, for the better.  I’m not there yet, but my mother is one of the best and truest examples I know of the Baha’i principal of approaching every person in the world with ‘utmost loving kindness’.  The worst thing I have ever, in my adult life, heard her say of a person is that their behaviour makes her sad.  She’ll condemn situations, like the crisis in Syria, as awful, but her focus is always on what we can do to help, not on blaming people.   I have to work really hard to think positively, and with love, of people sometimes, but I can always think ‘how would Mum approach this?’.  With forgiveness, and love, and understanding that we all have hard days, and we have to love others through theirs, and trust they will do the same for us.

Mum and I in Haleakala Crater, Maui, Hawaii

So here’s to my parents and all the ways they are wonderful and amazing!  I am so proud of you, and so, so proud to be your daughter.

Mahalo Nui.  (greatest thanks)