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Rate the Dress: an interesting take on late 1860s

Guess who forgot to do Rate the Dress last night?  Yep, me.  In my defence, it was a public holiday in Wellington, and my brain got stuck on Sunday mode.

So, a few hours late, but here you go!

The overall consensus on Vionnet’s green harlequin dress was that it, like everything Vionnet made, was practically perfect in every way.  It got very hard to keep track of the ratings, there were so many 10s in a row!  The neckline treatment, and alternating grainlines, came in for particular praise.  But a few of you couldn’t get Robin Hood out of your brain, and others assumed it was as simple as it looks (!), pulling the rating down to an exceptional, but not quite perfect, 9.2 out of 10.

As a follow up to Vionnet’s diamonds and simplicity, this weeks Rate the Dress is an elaborate late 1860s confection featuring as at least as many half-oval scallops as Vionnet’s dress featured diamonds.

The dress silhouette shows the transition from the late 1860s full elliptical crinoline, to the bustle of the 1870s, which in this instance creates the illusion of an exceptionally high back waist.  It’s possible  that the dress originally had a sash or other waist feature which is now missing.

The dress may also have had an alternate bodice, or a guimpe which filled in the low neckline, taking it from a dinner dress (as shown) to a day or reception dress.

The lavish use of lace trim was made possible by technological advances that improved machine-made embroidery on net laces.

What do you make of this ensemble?  What would have gone around the middle to make it right?  Or is it perfect as it is (or un-redeemable no matter what belt was worn?)

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A 1913 beauty, thedreamstress.com

A ca. 1913 beauty

I like picking up old photographs when I find them at antique stores and op shops.

Partly I do it because old photographs are fantastic clothing research resources, and partly I do it because it seems so sad that there was a time when people knew them, and knew who they were, and valued and treasured their photographs, and now that link is broken.

I’ll never know who most of the people I find in images were, but I can at least carry on a little tidbit of their story.

This woman is one of my favourite recent finds:

A 1913 beauty, thedreamstress.com

I say woman, because while she’s clearly quite young, and her elaborate hair-bows are very  girlish, she appears to be proudly displaying a rather large and gorgeous engagement ring on her left hand.

A 1913 beauty, thedreamstress.com

Her outfit  is absolutely typical of 1913: skirts had been getting slimmer and higher since 1910, and the cut-on Magyar sleeves were very stylish beginning in 1913.  In a formal studio setting, taking a photograph to commemorate her engagement, she was probably wearing up to date clothing, so I feel comfortable definitively dating the photograph to 1913 or 1914.

A 1913 beauty, thedreamstress.com

It is possible that her hair bow and earrings indicate a regional style, but there is nothing that is definitely out of place for a typical 1913 look.  Her outfit has some beautiful details:  the heavy rope belt hanging from her waist, the slight sheen of satin at her cuffs, and the geometric trim on her bodice.

You can see where the bodice fastens around the neck on the left, and then would open under the trim on the proper left front.  If her outfit is a blouse and skirt, the opening would continue down the front of the blouse.  If it’s a dress, it could continue down the front of the dress, and then the skirt might fasten under the rope detailing at front, or the front neck opening would only go partway down, and there would  be a second closure in back, or at the side, to allow the fit at the waist.

It’s amazing the detail I can get out of the photograph, as the original is very small: only 6cm (2 3/8″) across and 11.5cm tall (4 1/2″).

A 1913 beauty, thedreamstress.com

Rate the Dress: a Vionnet harlequin in green velvet

Last week’s Rate the Dress started out as a mystery, as I couldn’t locate the collection it came from.  A number of you succeeded in doing so, but Daniel wins  the google-fu award of the week for finding it first.

Things almost everyone  liked about last week’s dress: The colour.  The seamstresses’ cleverness and frugality in recycling the fabric.

Things that got mixed reviews: how the original mixed patterning of the fabric, and the way it was used in the alteration, interacted.  The padded, three dimensional trim, and the hem cord.

Things that almost nobody was impressed by: the fat, unbalanced trim over the bust.

The result?  A very respectable 8 out of 10.  Yay for historical recycling!

This week we’re going from bright blue to grass green, with an early 1920s Vionnet dress formed from diamonds in silk velvet, evoking a medieval harlequin.

What do you think of this dress?  Elegant and playful, or just silly?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10