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1760-1780 Line Drawings scrooppatterns.com

Call for Pattern Testers for Stays suitable for 1760-80

UPDATE:  Thank you to all who applied!  Applications to test the pattern are now closed.

Amber of Virgil’s Fine Goods and I are adding to the Scroop + Virgil’s Fine Goods Pattern offerings, and have another exciting 18th century pattern almost finished!   We’re looking for testers to help us check the final fit and instruction details. 💛

If you’d like to be one of them, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply!

This testing round will run Sat 11 Nov-Wed 3 Jan, with a check in midway.  We know that’s a very busy time of year for some people, but a very slow time for others (Leimomi waves hi!).  Please consider how busy this time of year is for you before you apply: there will be other patterns to test, and we’d hate for this to be another stressor at what is already a stressful time for some!

The Pattern:

Our Augusta Stays pattern has been wildly popular, and we get requests for another stays pattern all the time.  The things most often asked for are earlier 1760s-70s stays and front lacing stays.  Inspired by this, we’ve created a pattern based on a number of extant 1760s-70s stays!

View A: Historical has a closed front and fully handsewn, historically accurate instructions.  View B: Theatrical has front and back lacing, and primarily machine-sewn instructions based on theatrical construction techniques.

1760-1780 Line Drawings scrooppatterns.com

Both views use a combination of 4mm and 6mm synthetic whalebone boning, and have a cane bust rail to help achieve the very curved, rounded bust fashionable in this period.  Both views can be made with or without straps.

It is possible to make either version with a mix of the historical and theatrical instructions.

The pattern will be available in the full Scroop + Virgil’s Size Range of 30”/76cm bust to 52”/132cm bust.  Like the Augusta Stays, it will come in a ‘Straight’ and ‘Curvy’ option.

Materials:

Please check that you’ll be able to get the appropriate materials to test.  This pattern uses approximately:

Both Versions:

  • 27½ yards/25 meters of 4mm x 1mm synthetic whalebone
  • 4½ yards/4 meters of 6mm x 1.5mm synthetic whalebone
  • Bust rail: 1 yard/90cm 7mm round cane.

View A Historical Version:

1.5 yards/1m of each of the following:

    • Layer 1: Outer: Tightly woven mid-weight linens, silks, and worsted wools, in plain and twill weaves.
    • Layer 2: Interlining 1: Heavyweight linen. 
    • Layer 3: Interlining 2: Linen buckram: make your own with heavyweight linen and gum tragacanthe or xantham gum, following this tutorial
    • Layer 4: Lining (OPTIONAL): Lightweight linen. Checks and stripes are seen in many extant examples.

Plus:

    • Binding: 8 yards/7 meters of ¾”/2cm wide linen tape OR ½”/1.2cm wide strips of thin leather.
    • Seam tape (OPTIONAL): 5 yards/4 meters ¼”/6mm wide linen tape.
    • Lacing cord: 3 yards/2.5 meters linen lacing cord.
    • Thread: 60/2 and 80/3 linen thread, or quilters cotton thread.
    • Gum Tragacanthe or Xantham Gum: to make linen buckram.

View B Historical Version:

1.5 yards/1m of each of the following:

    • Layer 1: Decorative Outer (OPTIONAL): Light-midweight natural-fiber fabrics such as damask, brocade, fancy cottons, or linen.
    • Layer 2: Support Outer: Midweight, very tightly woven, extremely stable, natural-fiber fabrics with no stretch or give, such as heavy poplin, cotton sateen, coutil, satin or brocaded coutil, ticking, mid-heavyweight linen, etc. The heavier and sturdier the fabric used for Layer 1 is, the lighter the fabric used for Layer 2 should be
    • Layer 3:Support Inner: Midweight, very tightly woven, extremely stable, natural-fiber fabrics with no stretch or give, such as coutil, satin or brocaded coutil, ticking, heavyweight linen, etc.

Plus:

    • Bias Binding: 6 yards/5 meters of 1¼/3cm wide bias-cut strips of tightly-woven midweight fabric.
    • Lacing cord: 4.5 yards/4 meters cotton lacing cord.
    • Grommets: 46 Size 00 two-part (grommets + washers).
    • Aiglet: 2x Metal aiglet.

Testers:

This is an advanced pattern, and we’re looking for testers with prior historical sewing experience, OR extensive non-historical sewing experience.

To be a tester you will need to:

  • Be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes.
  • Be aged 21 or over.
  • Have the time to sew up the item. You’ll have a month to sew a toile and check the initial fit.  This can be done by machine, and takes Leimomi less than 7 hours from fabric to finished (at least 90 minutes of this was cutting bones, which can be re-used in your final stays).  You’ll then have a further four-ish weeks to make finished stays, photograph them, and provide feedback.
  • Be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • Provide clear feedback.
  • Agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern.

We would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  We’re asking for TESTERS, not marketers.

As always we’re looking for a range of testers. We need a spread of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

Based on previous calls for testers, we will get 30+ applicants in each of the most common size ranges (34-40 bust), so if we don’t choose you, it’s not that you weren’t fabulous, it’s that there were many applicants.

The Timeline:

Materials:

If you’re selected to test we’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by 10 pm NZ time on Tue the 24th of Oct.  This is Mon the 23rd for most of the rest of the world.

Patterns:

We will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 10pm NZ time on Sat 11 Nov.  

Testing & Reviewing:

As this is a pretty time intensive pattern, testing will go for seven weeks, with a toile check in one month in.

Testers will have until 10pm NZ time on Mon 11 Dec to do an initial toile of the stays and respond to the initial set of testing questions.

We’ll need testers to provide final feedback by 10pm NZ time on Wed 3 Jan.  They will need to be finished with their stays and provide photos by 10pm on Mon 8 Jan.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of all three size packs of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and our IGs.

Testing also offers testers an opportunity to get group and 1-1 feedback, assistance, and sewing tutorials from Amber and I.  It’s similarly to what you’d get in an online sewing workshop.  We’re modelling our testing process after an online class, albeit one you don’t pay for, because you’re letting us beta test the pattern on you.  There’s an online group that testers can join as they wish.  We’ll also be running a couple of live zoom events.  We’re committed to making testing as beneficial to testers as it is to us, and improve our testing process with every pattern we do.

Testers chosen from this open call are not paid.

Hope to hear from you!

To Apply to be a Tester:

Sorry, applications to test this pattern are now closed

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott

Let me set the scene…

It’s a beautiful early August day in Stockholm.  The weather is overcast, but fine.  An 18th century picnic has been planned on the grounds of Drottningholm Palace – the 17th century summer palace that is now the residence of the Swedish royal family.  For days Elisa and I have been following the weather report with eagle eyes, discussing the exact chance of rain.  On the day, we are triumphant: overcast it may be, but the prediction is for a <10% chance of rain.

We get dressed in 18th century finery: lacing our stays, and pinning on our gowns.  All dolled up, we trip downstairs and out the front door, breathing in the crisp fresh air: just cool enough to make our layers a pleasure rather than a penance.

I scamper across the road, and put my hand on the car door handle, waiting for the click of the electric key.

And feel it.

A drop of moisture.  One small spot on my hand.

Surely an anomaly!  One tiny drop, and it will blow over.  Right…

Alas, alackaday, no.  Wailey wailey.  

By the time we arrived at Drottningholm it was raining.

Undeterred, we set up a picnic under a huge oak tree in the ‘English’ park, across from the swan house:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

Rain or no, I was very excited to meet other historical costumers.  It’s so amazing to get to see people you’ve ‘known’ online, and exchange ideas in person.  I got to meet Emma who tested the Charlotte Mantle!

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

Emma was one of a number of costumers who wore 18th c Swedish ‘folk’ dress.  I am extremely envious: so practical for the weather, and it’s so neat to see examples of 18th century garments other than the English-French-American style.

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

I also got to meet Suvi of Summer Sun Stories, wearing a jacket made from one of her amazing fabrics, and Johanna of Enhörningen_och_draken wearing the most fabulous tabbed front ensemble (sadly not one of her amazing tiara though)

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

While the view was very picturesque, the rain got progressively heavier, and we got progressively damper, and we finally had to concede that it simply wasn’t picnic weather.

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

So we scampered across the grounds of Drottningholm, through the formal Baroque Gardens, to Kina Slott, the fascinating Chinese-inspired pavilion that’s such a good example of 18th century chinoiserie that it’s a huge part of why Drottningholm is a UNESCO world heritage site.

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

On the way we picked up more costumiers who had started from a different point on the grounds.

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

(this was the guard house, and it’s made of painted metal!  Copper, if I remember correctly)

By the time we crowded in to the cafe in what used to be the kitchens under The Confidence (the dining room with a table that was lifted up on an elevator, so no servants disturbed the meal) at Kina Slott, we were a merry, if very damp, group.

After waffles and tea we explored the Pavilion and took photos.

Every room in Kina Slott had a different theme:

The Gold Room (with birds and butterflies!):

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

(look at the floor!  Look at the wallpaper!  Look at the ceramic stove (one of my (many) absolute favourite things about Sweden)).

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

@loiseaudelapluie was wearing a just finished Angelica Gown.  She made it 3/4 length because of the fabric she had, and I love it.  It reminds me of some of the Dutch jackets of this era.

Go check out her IG – she has the most delightful video of all of us leaving Kina Slott where you can actually see the building.  I am extremely annoyed with myself: I was so damp and overwhelmed I completely forgot to get an outside photo of the Pavilion.

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

Elisa and Jan, the author of Tragedien på Tärnaholm

The Green Floral Room:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

That stove!

The Blue Room:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

@astridangelica looking like an angel in her chemise a la reine.

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

The Yellow Room:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

This is made of beads!

The Green Chinoiserie Room:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

This was my favourite, although I rather felt like we were in some underwater realm!

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

 

The Red Lacquer Room:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

The Marbled Entry:

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

An absolutely lovely time – but I hope next time (and I hope there is a next time!) there’s a little less rain!

A visit to Drottningholm and Kina Slott thedreamstress.com

What it’s like to have a hollow needle biopsy (and other breast health stuff)

It’s breast cancer awareness month in the US, and while I’m not in the US, it seems like a good excuse to tell you a bit about my breast-cancer-scare journey, because reading this kind of story would have reassured me a great deal while I went through it.

I’ll start this off with the BIG IMPORTANT SPOILER: I don’t have breast cancer (or any other kind of cancer).

Trigger warnings: I’m going to talk about my breasts a lot.  Also needles, and cancer.  There is a photo of bruising and needle marks.

Caveat: I’m not a medical specialist.  NONE of this is medical advice.  It’s just what I remember of the experience.  There may be mistakes in the names I call things, and I may mis-remember the order of some things.

The Big, Not-so-Bad, Breast Cancer Scare of 2020-21

Back in October 2020, I felt like I was being stabbed in my left breast whenever I accidentally bumped something against the arm side of it, and I could just feel a tiny, tiny lump in it if I pushed.

So, like a good advocate for my own health, and, aware that my grandmother died of breast cancer while my mum was only a teen, I trotted off to my doctor to talk with her about it.

She couldn’t feel a lump, but believed me that I could, She reassured me that breast pain like I was feeling wasn’t usually a symptom of breast cancer.  She also reassured me that since my mother and her sisters were all decades older than my grandmother was when she died, and hadn’t had cancer, there was no evidence of a genetic component to my grandmother’s cancer.  My grandmother smoked and probably got exposed to tons of horrible chemicals from other stuff.

Buuuuuuut…just to be safe, we should do some more checks…

(I was going to hear this a LOT over the next 18 months).

So she scheduled me for a breast ultrasound.

Breast ultrasounds

I took a couple of hours of work, and went to the ultrasound centre, and a nice lady smeared goo all over my chest and pushed the ultrasound wand across my breasts, and I found out two things.

  1. Breast ultrasounds are fantastic.  If they offer you one, say yes.  It’s the only time in your life you’ll get to have a non-sexual breast massage, and they are so relaxing.  Did have to be propped up on a very uncomfortable pillow to access the weird part of the breast where the lump was, but other than that 10/10 massage. (this will, obviously, depend on your ultrasound technician being nice and non creepy.  Every technician I met made me very comfortable)
  2. I have very dense breasts.  Excitingly dense.  “Hey, do you mind if we bring in a trainie technician and let them practice on you so they can get some experience in doing ultrasounds on very dense breasts where you really can’t see much?” dense.  (“sure, of course, if it’s going to help another woman, have at it.  Also, this means I get to have a longer ultrasound, right?”)

When it was done the technician said she’d seen some things, but they were probably nothing, but the expert would assess them, and I’d hear from my doctor if I needed any follow ups (this particular phrasing was important).

So I went back to work, and didn’t hear from my doctor, and went about my life happily.

Eeeep

And then in Feb I went back to my doctor for what turned out to be a MCL injury in my knee, and she said “why did you never follow up on your ultrasound results?” And I said “what?” And she said “Yeah, we found something and want to do a biopsy” And I said “WHAT!?” And she said, “Yeah, we sent you a message about it”, and I said “I definitely never received a message…”

Then she put in a request for an urgent appointment because I’d already lost two months…

And I went back to my car and had a little cry and a mini panic attack, because I’d assumed it was all nothing and was not at all mentally prepared for potentially bad news.

But that was the only time I cried during the whole things.

It turns out what happened is my doctors’ office has an automated system that sends computer messages that the doctors write into texts that get sent out.  To be considerate, texts only go out between 7am-8pm.  Unfortunately they forgot to set up the system to hold messages written outside those hours.  My doctor was an early bird who liked to get up at 6am and write all her messages.  So they disappeared into the ether…  Whomp whomp.

I got an official apology not from the health board and my doctor’s office about the mix up.

And a message that I was going to have a blood test, and then another emergency ultrasound in 3 days time, and they would schedule and explain the biopsy then.

By the time the ultrasound came, I was calm again.  And had a lovely, easy ultrasound, and a mammogram, and more “Wow, these are so dense!” comments.

And I got to enjoy the fascinating triptych in the radiology waiting room at Wellington hospital.

Coronavirus Triptych

I asked the ultrasound technician why they had paintings of coronaviruses in the waiting room, and she said “wow, how did you know what those are.”

Ummm…it’s March 2021…everyone in the entire world knows what a coronavirus looks like by now!

(you aren’t actually allowed mobile phones in the waiting room due to the proximity to the radiography machines, so I took in an actual digital camera to my next appt to snap this photo!)

In this ultrasound they focused on the area where I felt the pain and lump, and what do you know, there was a lump exactly where I felt it.  It was tiny: smaller than a grain of rice, and everyone who saw it said there was no way I could feel it.  But yet I consistently knew exactly where it was, because I could.

Because of stuff, there were more ultrasounds, and blood tests, and more specialists discussing things, and deciding what kind of biopsy was best, and different departments wanting to see things.  I got really familiar with the hospital before they finally decided I would have a hollow needle biopsy

So I went home, and looked up ‘hollow needle biopsy for breast lump’ and all I found were terrifying stories from women how it was the most painful thing they had ever been through and they had had three kids with no epidural, or how they still had nerve damage three years later…etc. etc.  Because the internet loves a horror story.

So here’s a nice comforting story about a hollow needle biopsy that was as tricky as it could possibly be, and still not bad or painful at all.  I hope that if you ever have to have one, yours is also non-scary and non-painful (and also comes back negative!)

What it’s like to have a hollow needle biopsy on your breast

Attempt #1:

It’s scheduled for the next week, the same day some of the founding members of the Polynesian Panthers are coming to speak at Toi Whakaari.  Bummer.  Sucky to miss it.  But the great thing about my work is that it’s just down the road from the hospital, so I literally go to work in the morning, and 20 minutes before my appointment I check out and stroll to the hospital, no need to park or anything.

The ultrasound tech gets all set up.  The anaesthesiologist comes and begins to numb my breast.  I get to watch all of this on the ultrasound screen.  Luckily I’m the kind of person who thinks its super cool to get to see needles get shoved through my flesh.  (yeah, I’m afraid of heights and claustrophobic, but if you need to do surgery on me I’m like “awesome, can I watch!?”)

And there’s a LOT of shoving.  Did I mention dense breast tissue?  Yeah, there’s a lot of comments about how much of a workout sticking a needle into me is.

Attempts to insert first needle.  Ack!  That super dense breast tissue?  I’ve bent the needle!  Second needle, same thing.  OK, we go up a size.  I bend that one too!  Another try, very carefully…success!  But we have to get more in, and more area.  The lump is right against the chest wall.  Fifth needle, the one they try to get really deep?  Bent!  Alright, we’re going to have to max out the needle size.   At maximum needle size they finally successfully numb me.

Photo shows a hand holding a bent needle

(not the actual needle!  I bent a pin a few days after this, and it was too funny not to photograph)

And then they try to do the biopsy, but there’s a problem.  A white cloud has grown in my breast on the ultrasound screen..  It was hard enough to see anything before, but now it’s just white fuzz.

The anaesthesiologist is fascinated.  She’s read about this, but in over a decade of doing this kind of breast numbing, she’s never seen it.  Somehow she’s injected air with the anaesthesia.  So they can’t do a biopsy, because they can’t see what they are aiming for.

Biopsy cancelled.

But can I come back last thing in the day, and they will see if the air has cleared?  Also, it’s a teaching hospital, so they are going to bring in trainie aestheticians to see me and my excitingly air cloud.  Awesome.  Luckily I love being a teacher!

So I go home, have a bunch of chocolate, and chill on the couch.

I got given a bunch of painkillers, but didn’t end up taking any of them, because even though this ends up being the most painful part of the whole thing, it really wasn’t bad.  Sore and kinda of weirdly burn-y (that may have been the air making its way out of my flesh), but totally bearable.

Unfortunately when I go back in late afternoon the cloud is still there.  So we re-schedule for 24 hours later.

Attempt #2:

30ish hours after the initial attempt, the air has finally cleared, and I’m good to go again.

There’s a discussion of whether it’s technique, random chance, or something in me that caused air to be inserted with the painkillers.  Apparently the side effect is so uncommon they don’t know what causes it.  The technician is very, very careful as she anaesthetises me.

Needles are bent, but less of them, because we don’t mess around and go straight for ‘biggest possible needle’.

And it works!

So then they get to stick another ‘biggest possible’ hollow needle (they learned!) all the way down in my breast to try to hit the teeny tiny lump sitting on my chest wall.  They do this three times, just in case.

There are more comments about the effort it takes to drive a needle through my dense breast tissue.  They have to go in almost 5cm, so it takes a lot of work. There are jokes about ‘well, that’s my workout for the day’.

Finally we have success!

I go home and inspect the 3 purple lines driven into the side of my breast, and the deep bruising around them.  It actually doesn’t look that bad.  I decide to wait and see if I need painkillers.  I never do.

A close up of the side of a breast, showing a deep yellow-purple bruise, and three needle lines disappearing in to the flesh.

So, quite a tricky hollow needle biopsy, involving two attempts, the biggest needles they ever use, and getting all the way in to my chest wall, and I didn’t even need to take ibuprofen.  It was only as sore as getting blood taken, I could go to work the next day, etc, etc.  On doctor’s orders I didn’t wear an underwire bra for three days because it would have sat right on the lines where they drove in the needles, but even that might have been fine.

(my photo library from this time is like, “coronavirus triptych, sew your yellow 1360s gown, make samples of the Selina Blouse, here’s a pic of your boob bruise, sew ruffles on to the Amalia jacket, here’s the bruise 3 days later, now make samples of the Kilbirnie Skirt… It’s a wild ride!)

The follow up:

My friends check in to see how it went.  I recount the gory details and we have a conversation about bent needles.  We invent the phrase ‘boobs of steel’ and decide that’s why female superheroes can wear such skimpy costumes: our flesh literally repels weapons.  Who needs armour when your own body just bends metal?  We end up shrieking with laughter.  The best medicine!

The biopsy comes back negative.  Hurrah!

But they weren’t totally happy with my blood test results, or something, so they wanted to keep checking on things, and following up…  So there are more ultrasounds, and mammograms, and blood tests, for a long time.

Cool, fine.  But since I’m being monitored for breast cancer does that mean that I get bumped up the Covid vaccination list?  (remember 2021, when we were all desperate to get a vaccine as soon as possible?)

Actually…kinda the opposite.  I was going to have to delay it.  The Covid vaccine gets the lymph nodes in your armpits all excited, which is the last thing you want because cancer also does that, so they can’t tell which was which.  Instead they needed to schedule my vaccine at an exact time to fit in with the ultrasound schedule…so I got it very late.

And ended up getting Covid before I’d had the 2nd vaccine (came down with it the first day I was eligible for it!), and thus had a really bad bout of Covid.  Womph womph.  (and when they have to X-ray my lungs from Covid they get all excited again and call in all the students to train on me because my scoliosis makes taking a lung x-ray tricky – my body is so cool!)

The conclusion:

After 18 months of testing, 11 breast ultrasounds, 2 biopsy/attempts, 2 mammograms, I-forgot-how-many-but-lots blood tests, and half a dozen specialist consultations appointments, I was finally, conclusively told I didn’t have breast cancer.

In fact, I was more sure not to have breast cancer than almost any woman in NZ, because my breasts had been tested, poked, prodded, palpitated, ultrasounded, mammogrammed, and otherwise inspected as much as it was medically possible to do so.  Half of Wellington has seen them.

Total cost for 11 breast ultrasounds, 2 biopsy/attempts, 2 mammograms, I-forgot-how-many-but-lots blood tests, and half a dozen specialist consultations appointments: $80 (initial doctors appt) + $36 (half of initial ultrasound) via the public health system in NZ = $116

Also, every single doctor, nurse, radiologist, anaesthesiologist, ultrasound technician, medically-trained vampire (I know there’s a name for the people who take your blood but can’t remember it and this is funnier than looking it up) and general person-who-checks-you-in at the hospital was lovely.  They all took the time to explain things,

So here’s to the New Zealand public health system.  It’s awesome!  I’m incredibly grateful to it!

And here’s to my boobs of steel!

And if you feel a lump, get it checked out.  I hope your journey is as easy as mine, and your results as good.