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Four people in Medieval costume imitate poses from illuminated manuscripts. On the left a woman in a red hood and green-yellow gown raises her arm. Next to her a woman in a pink dress and white wimple holds her hands demurely in front of her. In front of her a woman in a pink-purple dress and grey hood gestures. On the far right a man in a green tunic and yellow leggings raises a hand.

A bit of Medieval Mischief

We had a mixed-up Historical Sew and Eat Retreat this year, with a day of 18th century, and a day of Medieval.

18th century was our outing day, with a relaxed (yet historical) lunch and breakfast.  Medieval was our big feast day, with an extravagant Ottoman Empire inspired meal.

Because we were doing a bunch of cooking, and because the weather was sadly wet and chilly, we didn’t venture far from our house.

Enjoy a bunch of photos of costumers of varying levels of expertise in 14th century English, French and Swedish fashions, and their time-travelling Viking friend!

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

I started out looking quite reasonable in my just-finished yellow gown and blue linen surcoat (more about those in another post), with my St Birgitta’s cap and very best veil and wimple (mostly because I’d lent the simpler one to Kez).

A woman is wearing a yellow kirtle and blue linen surcoat. Her red-blond hair is mostly covered by a white wimple and veil. She looks to the right.

But I was cold, so Fil was a gentleman and lent me his hood, which is how I learned why women’s hoods have buttons up the front.  Getting the hood on completely dislodged my cap, wimple and veil, and made a mess of my hair.  So I’m decidedly rumpled in most of the photos…

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

But I was warm! (which is the important thing)

And green is a very good colour with my outfits, so now I really want a green hood…

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

But one with buttons!  And a looooooong liripipe!

A woman wears a yellow-green kirtle and red hood lined with white. She looks to the right.

Costuming goals…

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

We tried our hand at posing like illuminated manuscripts:

Four people in Medieval costume imitate poses from illuminated manuscripts. On the left a woman in a red hood and green-yellow gown raises her arm. Next to her a woman in a pink dress and white wimple holds her hands demurely in front of her. In front of her a woman in a pink-purple dress and grey hood gestures. On the far right a man in a green tunic and yellow leggings raises a hand.

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

And got a little carried away with our posing:

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

We also tried our hand at posing like Disney Princesses:

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

And the ugly stepsisters:

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

And went for a walk:

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

Fun times!

Medieval mischief thedreamstress.com

The gorgeous Sophia tester makes!

Final hours: the Marie, Charlotte, and Sophia patterns, and the combined pack with all three, are on sale until 11:59pm tonight, NZ Time – don’t miss out!

It’s the third and final of the three posts full of stunning test makes that I’m writing for each of the three 18th century mantle patterns.  Today’s feature: The Sophia Mantle!

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

The Sophia testers were just as fantastic and helpful as the Marie and Charlotte test groups.  In some ways they had the biggest job: the biggest mantles, and a bunch of techniques that aren’t in the other two patterns, because the Sophia is the most unique in construction.

@sewlateadoe

Sewlateadoe said that she wanted to make a Sophia with fur trim when she applied to test the mantle patterns, and I was so excited by the idea!  As you can see, her version does not disappoint!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @sewlateadoe scrooppatterns.com

That pink lining!!!  The contrast of the white fur and black outer!  The way it all falls and hangs!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @sewlateadoe scrooppatterns.com

It’s utterly, delightfully decadent.

Sewlateadoe made her Sophia in Small.

Loran Watkins of @loranwatkins

For a quite different, but equally gorgeous, take on the Sophia, we have Loran’s modern and minimalist (if it’s remotely possible for the Sophia to be minimalist!) version in the most gorgeous peacock blue taffeta, with a lining in black.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @loranwatkins scrooppatterns.com

It’s so dramatic!  It’s so divine!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @loranwatkins scrooppatterns.com

Her daughter calls this her ‘magic fairy cape’, and she is not wrong!

Loran made a Large.

Kate Motz of @katestangledstring

As we saw from the mantle inspiration posts, there are a lot of examples 18th century mantles in silks with small scattered floral patterns.  Kate chose a similar fabric for her mantle lining, and it just makes this mantle so special!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @katestangledstring, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

Her outer is a fine worsted wool, interlined with a midweight woollen wool (the pattern includes instructions on an optional interlining, for maximum coziness), and then lined with her beautiful silk.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @katestangledstring, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

The effect is both lush and restrained.  So beautiful!  I can absolutely imagine this in a film!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @katestangledstring, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

Kate made a Medium

Emily of @historicthimble

I’m not sure I need to say anything at all about Emily’s beautiful Sophia, because her photos do all the talking:

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @historicthimble, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

Is that not late 18th century winter wear personified!  The classic red with black lining is just so iconic!  And so delightfully cheerful!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @historicthimble, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

She says “The mantle will keep you warm and dry, plus the hood is ample enough for your hair to be full of secrets.” 🤣  Love it!

Emily made her Sophia in Extra Large.

A huge, huge thank you to all the testers!  You really helped make these awesome patterns, and you were awesome to work with 💛

More about the mantles:

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by Emma scrooppatterns.com

The fabulous Charlotte Mantle tester makes!

Last Day the Marie, Charlotte, and Sophia patterns, and the combined pack with all three, are on sale until 11:59pm tonight, NZ Time – don’t miss out!

It’s the second of the three posts full of gorgeous test makes that I’m writing for each of the three 18th century mantle patterns.  Today’s feature: the Charlotte Mantle.

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Although there were three patterns, we had one test group working together, so the testers could trade techniques across views, and we could get feedback on how different elements worked together.  The Charlotte testers were just as fabulous, thoughtful, detailed, fun to work with, and supportive of each other, and us, as the Marie testers.

Their fantastic feedback has helped to make the pattern just that – fantastic!

As always, we immensely grateful to the people who are willing to pattern test.  Thank you so, so much!

I’ve got a confession.  I find writing tester posts really difficult.  I’m really bad at taking compliments (I know, I know, I’m working on it!).  So I sit down to write these posts and get all gushy about how fabulous the tester makes are (because they are!), and then my brain starts worrying that the testers will be as awkward as I am about compliments and  gets in a horrid loop freaking out that maybe I’m actually making them uncomfortable, but I can’t not gush, because then it wouldn’t be true…

Also, I use fabulous, fantastic, gorgeous, delightful and beautiful too often, because they are just such perfect words.

My parents, however, had the perfect reassurance for this.  As my dad puts it “Don’t worry about what you write, we all just want to see the photos”.  Thanks Dad!

But it’s true.  You’re all just here to see the fabulous makes!

Marie-Bastienne of @lapetitesourisanimee

Marie-Bastienne was another tester who went well above and beyond and made multiple versions of the mantle pattern she tested.

First she made View A in a small floral cotton – very French!  She lined it with cotton voile, and fastened it with a silk ribbon.

Marie-Bastienne of @lapetitesourisanimee in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

She’s styled it for a historybounding look, and it’s so adorable!

For her second mantle, she made View B in classic red wool.

Marie-Bastienne of @lapetitesourisanimee in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

It’s the perfect winter look!  So bright and cozy!

Marie made Mediums.

Emma

Emma also made two versions of the Charlotte!

First she made a goth-y View B in velvet for her daughter:

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by Emma scrooppatterns.com

Love how this shows this isn’t only a historical garment!  (and love that neck clasp she used!)

Then she made a historical View A for herself:

Emma in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

I absolutely love that Emma made her version as a working class mantle in very practical wool with equally practical lining and linen ties.  It really shows how versatile this pattern is, and how this shape can go from 1780s high fashion to 2nd half of the 18th century and into the 19th century working class wear.

Emma in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

As good as Emma’s mantle looks on her, it’s equally adorable being modelled by Poppy the guinea pig in our cover photo!

Emma made her mantles in Medium.

@isabel.northwode

Speaking of 1780s high fashion mantles, Isabel made the iconic black-with-white-lining mantle that is seen in so many fashion plates of the period.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by @isabel.northwode scrooppatterns.com

Her finishing details are just perfect.  She had some things come up and wasn’t able to model it before this post, but she’s going to be adding trim and taking pictures, and I am SO excited about that, because everything Isabel makes is just sublime.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by @isabel.northwode scrooppatterns.com

She made her View B in Small.

Alethea of @modest_modiste

From classic black and white, to classic silk taffeta.  Alethea made her View B in the faaaaaaaabulous shot silk:

Alethea of @modest_modiste in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

Then she braved the very muggy NZ summer to put on a full 18th century outfit (it’s a Demelza dress!), complete with ridiculously extravagant 1780s muff, to model it.

Alethea of @modest_modiste in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

Her mantle is just gorgeous, and I live in hope that, as we’re both in NZ, I’ll get to see it in person some day.

Alethea made a Small.

Eva Bellman of @workingclassheroines

Eva chose the most beautiful mulberry wool for her Charlotte Mantle, and had fun experimenting with the construction directions to see if they could be adapted, and if other techniques would work.

Eva of @workingclassheroines  in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

She cut her hood with the face edge on the fold, so she could just fold back the fabric to form a self lining, and not have to sew that edge.

Eva of @workingclassheroines  in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

It gives a beautifully soft, unstructured look to the hood.  Very cozy!

She also switched out the ribbon fastening for a tab connected by two buttons.  This is such a great finish if you want to use your mantle for historybounding and modern wear.

Eva of @workingclassheroines  in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

And she also treated us to a photo of her gorgeous dog.  💛

Eva made an Extra Large.

Nina of @nina.virgo

And last, but absolutely not least, I have the massive privilege of having a pattern tester who is also a model!  (and one of my best friends, general co-conspirator, and my pattern editor).

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Nina made her View B Charlotte in the most beautiful silk-cotton voile with tiny dots woven in (which I may have talked her into buying 🤣).  Spotted gauzes were very fashionable in the late 18th century, and a number of fashion plates show mantles made in them.  So while the blend of her fabric isn’t absolutely accurate, the general aesthetic is spot-on (sorry, not sorry).

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Her Charlotte mantle is just perfection, and the amount of things she checked and questioned in the pattern is hugely, hugely appreciated.

Nina made a Large.

Thank you all!

A massive, massive thank you to all the testers for all the help they provided Amber and I as pattern makers, and all the inspiration they are providing everyone.

More about the mantles: