Latest Posts

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

Ruffled Unders at Ruffles to Rebellion

I am buried under piles of ruffles (literally – having spent most of the day hemming and ruffling 12 meters of silk organza for a travelling petticoat for Ninon, only to decide in the end I didn’t like the way it looked…) getting ready for Costume College, so I’m pulling out a fun costume pretties post that I’ve had stashed  in case of emergency (aka:  when I decide I really need a new dress, and have only two days in which to sew it…)

This is ‘Priscilla’ in the outfit she wore as a model for the Ruffles to Rebellion talk.

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

Priscilla  claims that she’s no good at posing, but I think she’s a natural in front of  the camera.

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

Doesn’t she look just adorable in the outfit?   (she joked that she agreed to model just so that she had an excuse to wear nothing but underwear to church!)

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

B doesn’t approve!

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

This is my favourite photo of the series – it absolutely captures Priscilla’s personality:

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

(photos by the fantastic  Facundo, who is always looking for new models and events, if you’re in Wellington and looking for a photographer

A Fortnight in 1916: Clothing

You’ve gotten some hints, but many people have asked what my wardrobe was like for my Fortnight in 1916.

I did a great deal of research in diaries and newspaper articles, and assembled what I thought resembled a fairly middle of the road wardrobe for a housewife to wear during a two week period in Wellington in August 1916.  One thing my researched revealed is that, just like today, there was probably a fair amount of variation in wardrobes, even in the same social class.  Some of us own dozens of bras, some of us own 2: the same was true in 1916.

Here, however, is my best guess at what a middle class Wellington housewife would have worn over a two week period in winter 1916 (eta: her total wardrobe would have been bigger, particularly in terms of accessories, one or two nice outfits, and seasonal items, but that didn’t come up in my fortnight):

Five combinations:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

My research indicates very poor women only had one set of undergarments, and even some ‘middle class’ women did with as few as two, but might also have as many as 10.  Wool long combinations were probably more common for winter wear, but combinations of this pattern were definitely known in NZ in this period.  All were made from Wearing History’s Combination pattern.  

Two longline corsets:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.comAs you know, one was great, the other…not so much.

Eight pairs of stockings:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

One for each day of the week, and one for wash day!

Four corset covers:  

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Two were made from my own pattern, two from Wearing History’s corset cover pattern.

Three petticoats:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

All cotton, but a wool flannel petticoat might still have been common during the winter of 1916.

Four blouses:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Two based on Wearing History’s Edwardian Blouse, one is Wearing History’s Elsie blouse, and the fourth one is taken from a 1910s blouse I own, was sewn during the fortnight, on my 1893 Singer 27!

Three Skirts:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Plus, one pair of shoes, two hats, a cardigan, a cardigan jacket, two pairs of gloves, and a coat!

It makes a fine pile of garments:

Clothing for a Fortnight in 1916, thedreamstress.com

Rate the Dress: subtle and sparkly 1908

There has been no Rate the Dress for the last two weeks, because I was focusing on the Fortnight in 1916, but it’s back!  Last time I did a Rate the Dress I showed two things that have not, in the past, done very well on RTD: childrenswear, and blue-green combinations.  In this case though, reactions ranged from a sprinkling of ‘it’s a nice dress, not fabulous, but I shall give it a 7’ to a LOT of ‘I want to make it!  Love!’ 10s.  Big pockets and historicism for the win!  It came in at a perfect 9 out of 10.

The last couple of weeks have been very stressful for me, for reasons that had nothing to do with the Fortnight, so I’m feeling the need for something soothing and restful in the way of frocks.  While I would never say ‘oooh, that colour is amazing!’ about a length of fabric the shade of this dress, I find looking at it very relaxing and soothing.

For me, it’s a shade that’s very appealing without being demanding: the kind of thing you wear when you want to be impeccably dressed, the epitome of tastefulness, without shouting for  attention.

The embroidery on this dress gives  a definite twist to dress, taking it from potentially retiring, to quite interesting.  The colour scheme is subtle, but the layout is unexpected, and the intricate patterning moves the eye around the dress, drawing it upward to the wearer.

What do you think? Is it still a yawn? Or just the right mix of detail, subtlety and refinement?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10