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Rate the Dress: ca. 1888 Flight of Fancy

Last week I showed you a lady of 1660s as an allegory of…something.    Her  vivid teal-y blue and golden orange colour scheme met with general approval, as did the overall silhouette, balancing out the lower ratings from those of you who felt she was a little too generic mid-17th century, and her allegory a little too obvious, giving her a rating of a perfect 8 out of 10.

It’s been said more than once in the comments on Rate the Dress that ‘Worth can do no wrong’ or ‘It’s a Worth – automatic 10’.  The is, I think, utter  rubbish.  Every designer has a bad day, or a client who insists on design features the designer isn’t thrilled about.  And the House of Worth was pumping out so many frocks in the last quarter of the 19th century that they had to have the occasional not-quite on to it garment.

On the other hand, past ratings make it very clear that the design works of Jean-Phillipe Worth aren’t quite as warmly  received  as that of his father.  You seem to feel that he may have inherited the business, but he didn’t inherit the genius.

So, as you have guessed,  today’s Rate the Dress  is a Worth, but it is a Jean-Phillipe Worth, rather than a Charles Worth.  How will it be rated?

This evening dress features lush feather patterned brocade in blush pink, accented with blonde lace and a blonde satin  sash and bows from  picot edged ribbon.

While it was undoubtedly still extremely expensive, the small, overall pattern of the lace indicates it was probably  machine made.

The back of the dress features an elaborate butterfly bustle, giving the rear view as much visual interest as the front.

So what do you think?  Is this frock proof of the unsurpassed design genius of the House of Worth, whether it was père or fils?  Or is this one a Worth miss worth missing?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

The return of an old friend: the Janome SW 2018E / New Home 2022

I learned to sew with a sewing machine when I was 12 or so, and was instantly hooked, so my parents, with a lot of advice from my sewing teacher, bought me a sewing machine of my own for my 13th birthday.

It was a New Home 2022, and I loved it.  It purred beautifully, and sewed smoothly over anything and everything.  It had all the feet: rolled hem, blind hem, zipper, well designed basic, all stored in their own individual little slots under the lid at the top of the machine.  There was a cunning box at the front for putting spools of thread and any additional extras.  Everything about it was a delight.

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I made half my wardrobe, including two prom dresses, a dozen dresses for my mother, Halloween costumes for my sisters, my first attempts at historical costuming, curtains and more on it while I was in high school.

Then I  went off to college (university for those you in NZ), and while I couldn’t fit my sewing machine in my suitcase, I did fit it in a box, with fabric packed around it, and post it to myself at uni.

It dominated my desk for four years of university, and I sewed my first coat, and my first corset, and more clothes, and quilts, and numerous costumes, historical and otherwise.

One of the only photos of me at my machine, despite how often that happened!

One of the only photos of me at my machine, despite how often that happened!

And then I went to NZ, and met Mr D, and it became obvious that a move to NZ was in my future, so after a visit to me he packed my sewing machine in a suitcase, all buffered round with fabric (bless Air NZ and their old two 23 kilo pieces of luggage allowance), and took it back to NZ with him.

So, after a stint in New York and a temporary move back to Hawaii, I had to sew my wedding dress on the very basic machine my mother bought as a replacement, while my machine sat and waited for me in NZ.

After the wedding we moved down to Wellington, and I joyfully unpacked my machine, and got it set up, plugged into a converter to adapt from the US electrical system to the NZ, and set out sewing clothes and curtains and costumes and…

…One day, only a few months after I arrived, my lovely machine’s engine blew up in terrifying but exciting cloud of black smoke.  Wailey wailey!

Yeah, it turns out that sewing machines really don’t like running on converters, especially when they are already 30 years old and have spent a decade in ‘death to electronics’ Hawaii, and have made three major moves.

I took it to a sewing machine repair shop, and they told me that the only way to legally repair it would be to have the entire electrical system and engine replaced, and it would cost at least $2,000.  Eeeek!

Since $2,000 was out of the question, I bought a Janome Sewist instead, and bid a sad farewell to my machine.  I loved it so much that I couldn’t quite bear to completely get rid of it, and so, in addition to the feet, I kept the the box that fit at the front of the machine.

Because my machine was a New Home, I couldn’t find the same machine in New Zealand, because I hadn’t yet figured out that New Homes were sold as Janome’s in NZ.  But once I did, I put a watch on Trademe (like eBay for NZ), and watched, and watched.

And last week, a machine that I recognised as mine  came up.  It  was a    Janome SW 2018E, not a New Home 2022, but it was clearly the same machine, and it was mine.

With some luck and careful watching (and a willingness to risk that the machine might be in terrible condition, because it had been  the owners mother’s and she had no idea if it would work), I managed to bid and make the machine properly mine, and now it’s sitting on the dining room (which is really my office these days, but gets called the dining room because that’s what it was meant to be)

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It’s just as wonderful as I remember.  Look at it!  They just don’t make machines like it these days.  Even the super expensive ones have terrible rickety boxes at the front that are hard to open and get into, and don’t have beautiful features like a storage  slot  for each foot, and a measuring tape across the front, and cunning diagrams for each stitch.

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I’ve brought it home and cooed at it and sewed with it, and Felicity has given it a good once-over.  She was particularly interested in the seam gage that I happened to have sitting on it, which I got with my first ever sewing kit, just prior to the first sewing machine (so appropriate)

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She approved of the machine, but did not approve of the seam gage, which she scornfully knocked off the machine.

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She also inspected the one bit of sewing I’ve managed the time to do on it: the darts on a blouse for my mum I started two years ago and never finished.

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The darts sewed beautifully, but there is one little problem: the reverse doesn’t work!  Wailey wailey!

So my lovely machine will be making a trip to be serviced and fixed.  I think I’ll try the one out in Petone I’ve never been to, so I can tell my students if they are good or not.

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Now there is only one question: what shall I name her?

Heaven on Earth: Mele Cascades, Vanuatu

Every winter, NZ television is full of advertisements for escapes to tropical islands.  Ads for Rarotonga, Samoa and Fiji dominate, but this year there have been a lot of ads for Vanuatu.

Mr D & I went to Vanuatu on holiday last year, and it was amazing.

This year Vanuatu is pushing tourism very heavily, because most of the country was devastated by Cyclone Pam  this March, and the country desperately needs tourism money to rebuild.

Unfortunately I don’t think a Vanuatu holiday is on the cards for us for this year, but I can’t help thinking back to the islands, and thinking of our favourite spots, and wondering how they fared.

My favourite spot in Vanuatu was the Mele Cascades.  It was, basically, more than anywhere else I have ever been, heaven on earth.

I love Hawaii, and it is, beautiful, and wonderful, and it is home, it is tÅ«rangawaewae.  I will always go back to Hawaii, dream of a certain valley, feel most connected there.

But the Mele Cascades were paradise.  They were perfection.  If you specifically set out  to create a place to utterly delight and captivate me, you could not have done better than the Mele Cascades.

Mele Cascades, Vanuatu, thedreamstress.com03Imagine crystal clear water, running over rocks sculpted smooth with layers of calcium deposits, falling into pools that glow aqua in the midst of the jungle.

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Twisting along the stream is a little path, running through the jungle and crossing the stream at shallow spots, passing little gardens of banana, cassava and and pineapple.

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Where the path crossed and climbed through the stream there were little ropes to help you keep your footing.

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The ropes and poles have been there for so long that the poles have been covered in calcium deposits, and have become part of the Cascades.

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At the end of the rope path was the final goal: a waterfall

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Sitting at the base of the waterfall, the water pounding against your skin and churning the water, you could look up and watch rainbows sparkle in the mist, and native birds that looked like swallows sweeping in and out of it, catching insects.

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Back down the path, where the Mele Cascades gardens started, the stream spills into a pool by a pavilion, with a simple dam built at one end, to create a huge natural swimming pool.

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The pool was the most delicious water I’ve ever swam in: warm enough that you didn’t feel the slightest shock climbing in, but cool enough to refresh you against the tropical heat.

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And it was full of fish!  Beautiful large fish, that came and swam with you, nibbling your toes and dancing and flashing through the water around you!

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And despite the stream of tourists taking the path to see the waterfall, walking right past the swimming pool, I was the only one who ever went in it (on the way up, and then again on the way back, and then up again, and then another dip in the pool..)

 

I could have stayed in the Cascades for hours.

In fact, I could have just about lived in the Cascade gardens, moving up and down the path, hanging out in each pool, taking little walks to look at the view…

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Paradise….