Latest Posts

Rate the Dress: Il Baroccio’s Young Man

Last week I showed you a red velvet spencer dress, and your reactions to it were either extremely positive, or extremely not.  I have to admit that expanse of checked velvet was pretty full on, and that can be very much a good thing, or very much a bad thing, but it was definitely VERY MUCH a thing!  The rating came in at 7.7777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777 (ad infinitum) out of 10,  which I feel nicely matched the quirkyness of the spencer!

This week we’ll stick with patterned velvet (probably – I’m guessing at what our young gentlemen’s doublet is made from) and ornamental buttons as we look at Barocci’s young man.

Portrait of a Young Man, by Federico Barocci (Il Baroccio), perhaps c. 1580-90 but possibly slightly later, ca. 1600

Portrait of a Young Man, by Federico Barocci (Il Baroccio), perhaps c. 1580-90 but possibly slightly later, ca. 1600

The Young Man is dressed in a very rich and impressive outfit, and carries an equally impressive sword, but this portrait always makes me giggle just a little bit anyway, because his not-very-impressive beard and mustache are so timeless.  You could imagine him in a T-shirt and jeans today, trying SO HARD to grow that facial hair.

So hair aside, what do you think of the Young Man?  Late 16th century fashion can be a bit hit-and-miss, but as long as you have to wear a stiffened bodice and a ruff, is this the way to do it?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A dress for when I was a bird

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com

I climbed up the karaka tree
Into a nest all made of leaves
But soft as feathers.

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com
I made up a song that went on singing all by itself
And hadn’t any words, but got sad at the end.

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com
There were daisies in the grass under the tree.
I said just to try them:
“I’ll bite off your heads and give them to my little
children to eat.”

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com

But they didn’t believe I was a bird;
They stayed quite open.
The sky was like a blue nest with white feathers
And the sun was the mother bird keeping it warm.
That’s what my song said: though it hadn’t any words.

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com

Little Brother came up the patch, wheeling his barrow.
I made my dress into wings and kept very quiet.

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com
Then when he was quite near I said: “Sweet, sweet!”

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com
For a moment he looked quite startled;
Then he said: “Pooh, you’re not a bird; I can see
your legs.”
A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com
But the daisies didn’t really matter,
And Little Brother didn’t really matter;
I felt just like a bird.

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com
With the Historical Sew Fortnightly ‘Poetry in Motion’ challenge coming up, I wasn’t sure what to make.  It was the one challenge of the year where I didn’t have a plan ahead of time.  But I was very much deep in Katherine Mansfield, and Mansfield has always been one of my favourite poets.

So I dug through Mansfield’s poems, looking for inspiration.  I was instantly attracted to ‘In the Rangitaki Valley‘, with its imagery of yellow broom flowers (of course!), but coming just after the yellow challenge, and with a bunch of yellow UFOs, none of which were appropriate to the poem, I  decided it wasn’t the right moment.

Instead I read through another of my favourites: ‘When I was a bird‘, and instantly saw a dress in the poem.  Not only a dress, but one I’ve already made: the Vionnet Chiton-inspired dress.  It’s got wings, and, when making it from kimono fabric, the mon become little floral daisies.  And it’s very Mansfield-y: ca. 1920, avant garde, loose and free.

I may have already made more than one Chiton dress, but I can never have too many, and I didn’t have a black one that fit me (because the one in my closet shrunk.  Uh-huh. Yes it  did.)

So I unpicked another kimono, and whipped up a dress in an afternoon.  A model wore it for the Mansfield talk (and looked fabulous!), but I wanted a photoshoot inspired by the poem.  So on Saturday Mr D and I headed out into the sunshine.

I couldn’t think of anywhere there was a climbable karaka tree (they tend to have thick trunks that shoot straight up with no branches from some time), and in any case it was Mr D’s turn to pick the location for our walk, and he chose the Massey Memorial and surrounds.

As it turned out, the Massey Memorial was an inspired choice.  The broom was in full bloom, scenting the air and covering the hillsides in yellow, so I got to have a ‘breast high in the blossoms I stand’ moment after all:

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com

 

A dress for Mansfield's 'When I was a bird' thedreamstress.com

 

The Challenge:  #18 Poetry in Motion

The Poem: Katherine Mansfield’s ‘When I was a bird’

Fabric:  1 vintage silk kimono, unpicked

Pattern:  My own, inspired by a Vionnet original.

Year:  ca. 1920

Notions:  cotton thread.

How historically accurate is it?:  Practically perfect in every way.  Except that Vionnet’s original would have been entirely handsewn, because it was couture.

Hours to complete:  3

First worn:  For ‘Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield’, Sat 4 Oct

Total cost:  $5 for the kimono.

Clothing the world of Katherine Mansfield

Well, it’s been almost a week since the Katherine Mansfield talk, and I am mostly recovered, and most of the stuff is washed and put away and life is mostly back to normal!

I’ve seen some of the photographer’s images from the talk, and they look amazing.  Definitely something to look forward to!

For now, here are a few more informal glimpses from my camera, courtesy of various models backstage, and Madame O in the audience during the talk.

Zara from Off-Grid Chic  (modeling my green ’20s gown) and Juliet of Crazy Gypsy Chronicles (in the 1910s longline) have a modern technology moment in the middle of historical costuming.

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

Sandra of Flossie FT doing hair:

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

All dressing rooms should have spectacular stained glass windows:

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

And then, the talk!

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

How adorable is Martha in the 1920s bathers?  

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

Yellow stockings!

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

And a dress with wings!

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com

Clothing the World of Katherine Mansfield, thedreamstress.com