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The gorgeous Sophia tester makes!

Final hours: the Marie, Charlotte, and Sophia patterns, and the combined pack with all three, are on sale until 11:59pm tonight, NZ Time – don’t miss out!

It’s the third and final of the three posts full of stunning test makes that I’m writing for each of the three 18th century mantle patterns.  Today’s feature: The Sophia Mantle!

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

The Sophia testers were just as fantastic and helpful as the Marie and Charlotte test groups.  In some ways they had the biggest job: the biggest mantles, and a bunch of techniques that aren’t in the other two patterns, because the Sophia is the most unique in construction.

@sewlateadoe

Sewlateadoe said that she wanted to make a Sophia with fur trim when she applied to test the mantle patterns, and I was so excited by the idea!  As you can see, her version does not disappoint!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @sewlateadoe scrooppatterns.com

That pink lining!!!  The contrast of the white fur and black outer!  The way it all falls and hangs!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @sewlateadoe scrooppatterns.com

It’s utterly, delightfully decadent.

Sewlateadoe made her Sophia in Small.

Loran Watkins of @loranwatkins

For a quite different, but equally gorgeous, take on the Sophia, we have Loran’s modern and minimalist (if it’s remotely possible for the Sophia to be minimalist!) version in the most gorgeous peacock blue taffeta, with a lining in black.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @loranwatkins scrooppatterns.com

It’s so dramatic!  It’s so divine!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @loranwatkins scrooppatterns.com

Her daughter calls this her ‘magic fairy cape’, and she is not wrong!

Loran made a Large.

Kate Motz of @katestangledstring

As we saw from the mantle inspiration posts, there are a lot of examples 18th century mantles in silks with small scattered floral patterns.  Kate chose a similar fabric for her mantle lining, and it just makes this mantle so special!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @katestangledstring, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

Her outer is a fine worsted wool, interlined with a midweight woollen wool (the pattern includes instructions on an optional interlining, for maximum coziness), and then lined with her beautiful silk.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @katestangledstring, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

The effect is both lush and restrained.  So beautiful!  I can absolutely imagine this in a film!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @katestangledstring, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

Kate made a Medium

Emily of @historicthimble

I’m not sure I need to say anything at all about Emily’s beautiful Sophia, because her photos do all the talking:

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @historicthimble, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

Is that not late 18th century winter wear personified!  The classic red with black lining is just so iconic!  And so delightfully cheerful!

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Sophia Mantle by @historicthimble, pattern available at scrooppatterns.com

She says “The mantle will keep you warm and dry, plus the hood is ample enough for your hair to be full of secrets.” 🤣  Love it!

Emily made her Sophia in Extra Large.

A huge, huge thank you to all the testers!  You really helped make these awesome patterns, and you were awesome to work with 💛

More about the mantles:

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by Emma scrooppatterns.com

The fabulous Charlotte Mantle tester makes!

Last Day the Marie, Charlotte, and Sophia patterns, and the combined pack with all three, are on sale until 11:59pm tonight, NZ Time – don’t miss out!

It’s the second of the three posts full of gorgeous test makes that I’m writing for each of the three 18th century mantle patterns.  Today’s feature: the Charlotte Mantle.

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Although there were three patterns, we had one test group working together, so the testers could trade techniques across views, and we could get feedback on how different elements worked together.  The Charlotte testers were just as fabulous, thoughtful, detailed, fun to work with, and supportive of each other, and us, as the Marie testers.

Their fantastic feedback has helped to make the pattern just that – fantastic!

As always, we immensely grateful to the people who are willing to pattern test.  Thank you so, so much!

I’ve got a confession.  I find writing tester posts really difficult.  I’m really bad at taking compliments (I know, I know, I’m working on it!).  So I sit down to write these posts and get all gushy about how fabulous the tester makes are (because they are!), and then my brain starts worrying that the testers will be as awkward as I am about compliments and  gets in a horrid loop freaking out that maybe I’m actually making them uncomfortable, but I can’t not gush, because then it wouldn’t be true…

Also, I use fabulous, fantastic, gorgeous, delightful and beautiful too often, because they are just such perfect words.

My parents, however, had the perfect reassurance for this.  As my dad puts it “Don’t worry about what you write, we all just want to see the photos”.  Thanks Dad!

But it’s true.  You’re all just here to see the fabulous makes!

Marie-Bastienne of @lapetitesourisanimee

Marie-Bastienne was another tester who went well above and beyond and made multiple versions of the mantle pattern she tested.

First she made View A in a small floral cotton – very French!  She lined it with cotton voile, and fastened it with a silk ribbon.

Marie-Bastienne of @lapetitesourisanimee in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

She’s styled it for a historybounding look, and it’s so adorable!

For her second mantle, she made View B in classic red wool.

Marie-Bastienne of @lapetitesourisanimee in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

It’s the perfect winter look!  So bright and cozy!

Marie made Mediums.

Emma

Emma also made two versions of the Charlotte!

First she made a goth-y View B in velvet for her daughter:

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by Emma scrooppatterns.com

Love how this shows this isn’t only a historical garment!  (and love that neck clasp she used!)

Then she made a historical View A for herself:

Emma in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

I absolutely love that Emma made her version as a working class mantle in very practical wool with equally practical lining and linen ties.  It really shows how versatile this pattern is, and how this shape can go from 1780s high fashion to 2nd half of the 18th century and into the 19th century working class wear.

Emma in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

As good as Emma’s mantle looks on her, it’s equally adorable being modelled by Poppy the guinea pig in our cover photo!

Emma made her mantles in Medium.

@isabel.northwode

Speaking of 1780s high fashion mantles, Isabel made the iconic black-with-white-lining mantle that is seen in so many fashion plates of the period.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by @isabel.northwode scrooppatterns.com

Her finishing details are just perfect.  She had some things come up and wasn’t able to model it before this post, but she’s going to be adding trim and taking pictures, and I am SO excited about that, because everything Isabel makes is just sublime.

The Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle by @isabel.northwode scrooppatterns.com

She made her View B in Small.

Alethea of @modest_modiste

From classic black and white, to classic silk taffeta.  Alethea made her View B in the faaaaaaaabulous shot silk:

Alethea of @modest_modiste in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

Then she braved the very muggy NZ summer to put on a full 18th century outfit (it’s a Demelza dress!), complete with ridiculously extravagant 1780s muff, to model it.

Alethea of @modest_modiste in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

Her mantle is just gorgeous, and I live in hope that, as we’re both in NZ, I’ll get to see it in person some day.

Alethea made a Small.

Eva Bellman of @workingclassheroines

Eva chose the most beautiful mulberry wool for her Charlotte Mantle, and had fun experimenting with the construction directions to see if they could be adapted, and if other techniques would work.

Eva of @workingclassheroines  in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

She cut her hood with the face edge on the fold, so she could just fold back the fabric to form a self lining, and not have to sew that edge.

Eva of @workingclassheroines  in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

It gives a beautifully soft, unstructured look to the hood.  Very cozy!

She also switched out the ribbon fastening for a tab connected by two buttons.  This is such a great finish if you want to use your mantle for historybounding and modern wear.

Eva of @workingclassheroines  in the Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Charlotte Mantle scrooppatterns.com

And she also treated us to a photo of her gorgeous dog.  💛

Eva made an Extra Large.

Nina of @nina.virgo

And last, but absolutely not least, I have the massive privilege of having a pattern tester who is also a model!  (and one of my best friends, general co-conspirator, and my pattern editor).

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Nina made her View B Charlotte in the most beautiful silk-cotton voile with tiny dots woven in (which I may have talked her into buying 🤣).  Spotted gauzes were very fashionable in the late 18th century, and a number of fashion plates show mantles made in them.  So while the blend of her fabric isn’t absolutely accurate, the general aesthetic is spot-on (sorry, not sorry).

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

Her Charlotte mantle is just perfection, and the amount of things she checked and questioned in the pattern is hugely, hugely appreciated.

Nina made a Large.

Thank you all!

A massive, massive thank you to all the testers for all the help they provided Amber and I as pattern makers, and all the inspiration they are providing everyone.

More about the mantles:

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

The Inspiration Behind the Sophia Mantle

Reminder: the Marie, Charlotte, and Sophia patterns, and the combined pack with all three, are on sale until Tue 13 December NZ Time (so that’s Monday for most of the rest of the world) – don’t miss out!

It’s the final post in my series of posts on the inspiration behind the Marie, Charlotte and Sophie patterns.  Last, but absolutely not least, is, the Sophia:

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com

The Inspiration:

The primary basis for the Sophia Mantle is this faaaaaaaabulous mantle from the Metropolitan Museum of Art:

Cape, 1795–1800, British, silk, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art; 2009.300.3890

Cape, 1795–1800, British, silk, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art; 2009.300.3890

Cape, 1795–1800, British, silk, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art; 2009.300.3890

Cape, 1795–1800, British, silk, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art; 2009.300.3890

Enormous hood?   Gorgeous fabric?  Fun trim?  What’s not to love!

While the Metropolitan Museum of Art example is particularly spectacular, late 18th century images of dress are full of examples of mantles with full pleated hoods that are wide enough to fall as collars around the shoulders:

John Collet, ca. 1725–1780, British, A Lady of Fashion, ca. 1778, Pen, black ink and watercolor, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, B1977.14.4966

John Collet, ca. 1725–1780, British, A Lady of Fashion, ca. 1778, Pen, black ink and watercolor, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, B1977.14.4966

The Pleasures of Skaiting - or, a View in Winter, British Museum, 1613392787

The Pleasures of Skaiting – or, a View in Winter, British Museum, 1613392787

(and yes, the innuendo in that image is very purposeful).

Francisco de Goya, Portrait of María Teresa de Vallabriga, morganatic wife of the Infante Luis, 1783, Alte Pinakothek

Francisco de Goya, Portrait of María Teresa de Vallabriga, morganatic wife of the Infante Luis, 1783, Alte Pinakothek

The Angelic Angler 12 April 1780 Mezzotint © The Trustees of the British Museum, 145954001

The Angelic Angler 12 April 1780 Mezzotint © The Trustees of the British Museum, 145954001

In addition to the many images of this style of mantle, there are a number of other extant examples, like this gorgeous pink satin one:

Hood and Muff, 1780-1810, Silk satin with marabou trim, Nasjonalmuseet for Kunst, Arketektur og Design

Hood and Muff, 1780-1810, Silk satin with marabou trim, Nasjonalmuseet for Kunst, Arketektur og Design

This wool short cloak, which, while it has a very different body, and different construction, is an example of a wool garment with this style of hood:

Other than the hood, this cloak is quite different to the Sophia, but is an interesting comparison point.  The Marie & Charlotte Mantle patterns cover the type of finishing seen on the cloak.

The Construction:

While some of the images of this style of mantle appear to show lighter weight unlined mantles, all of the extant examples (not counting the cloak, as is quite different in its pattern and construction) are more substantial lined garments.  They also have really fabulous trim: marabou and fringe and fur!

We decided to focus on a lined, hooded mantle with three trim options: fur, fringe, and marabou.

As it’s very hard to find modern fringe that matches the fringing on 18th century garments, we included instructions on making your own fringe.  It’s time consuming, but a wonderful way to give a really period finish to your garments.

And, of course, the Sophia can be mashed up with both the Marie and Charlotte.

Make it unlined based on the instructions for unlined mantles in either of those patterns.  Turn it into a hoodless wrap using their neck finish techniques.  Use the lace trim instructions in the Marie to trim it with lace, like the mantles shown in so many fashion plates and satirical prints.

A Man Trap, Carington Bowles, British Museum, 984891001, 2010,7081.2234,

A Man Trap, Carington Bowles, British Museum, 984891001, 2010,7081.2234,

Alter the hanging lappets to be rounded points based  on the Charlotte pattern.  It’s so adaptable!

The fashionable shoe-maker trying on an Italian slipper, British Museum, 142532001, 1935,0522.1.185

The fashionable shoe-maker trying on an Italian slipper, British Museum, 142532001, 1935,0522.1.185

More about the Mantles:

More inspiration:

I have an entire pinterest board of inspiration for the mantle patterns, sorted into sections for Marie, Charlotte and Sophia, with an extra section just for lace mantles.

Keep in mind that some of the images are not extremely clear, and may actually depict fichu or cloaks.  They are on the board for fabric, colour, or lace type inspiration.  Be sure to do your own research if you need to be extremely historically accurate.

Further reading:

  • Baumgarten, Linda & Watson, John with Florine Carr.  Costume Close Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790.  The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Williamsburg, Virginia: 1999
  • Bradfield, Nancy.  Costume in Detail, 1730-1930.  Harrap Limited, London: 1981
  • Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen. Patterns for Outer Garments, Book I: Cloaks, Capes, Stoles, and Wadded Mantles.  Studio City, CA Players Press, Inc. 2000
  • Waugh, Norah.  The Cut of Women’s Clothes: 1600-1930.  Faber & Faber Limited, London: 1968

Scroop + Virgils Fine Goods 18th C Mantle Patterns scrooppatterns.com