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The HSF ’14: Challenge #15: The Great Outdoors

I’m a bit behind on the Historical Sew Fortnightly inspiration post thanks to my flu, so I’m trying to catch up this week.

Challenge #15, The Great Outdoors, is due 15 August.

This challenge celebrates nature, the great outdoors, and all of the things we do in wide open spaces.

The oldest outdoor pursuit, is, or course, walking for which you might make Roman sandals, (though these were probably used for  long hours spent building walls):

Shoes, Roman, 139-141 A.D, discovered during archaeological excavations at Bar Hill Fort on the Antonine Wall

Shoes, Roman, 139-141 A.D, discovered during archaeological excavations at Bar Hill Fort on the Antonine Wall

Or a smart Regency walking ensemble:

Morning Walking Dress, April 1812

Morning Walking Dress, April 1812

Walkings more exciting cousin is mountaineering, which must have been even more exciting in a corset and heavy wool skirt:

Thyra of Denmark in mountaineering dress

Thyra of Denmark in mountaineering dress

Another ancient and perennially popular outdoor pursuit is riding.  I think 17th century riding habits are a thing of beauty and a joy forever:

Madame La Comtesse de Saint Geran by Joseph Parrocel,1675 - 82

Madame La Comtesse de Saint Geran by Joseph Parrocel,1675 – 82

And 18th century riding habits are also frequently depicted doing double duty as walking wear:

The Countess of Effingham with Gun and Shooting Dogs by George Haugh 1787

The Countess of Effingham with Gun and Shooting Dogs by George Haugh 1787

More modern riding ensembles are no less adorable, and infinitely more practical

Madge Bellamy, 1920s

Madge Bellamy, 1920s

In winter, one can go skating, either on ones own two feet, or in this cunning skating chair:

Winter,  Jean-Baptiste Pater, 1725

Winter, Jean-Baptiste Pater, 1725

A more recent outdoor speed invention is bicycling:

Raleigh bicycle poster early 1920s

There are also practical sports, such as  archery (though this  Medieval depiction shows some rather improbably impractical gowns):

Évrard de Conty, France, Cognac, 1496-1498. Illustrated by Robinet Testard, Paris, BNF, Departement des Manuscrits, Français 143, fol. 116

Évrard de Conty, France, Cognac, 1496-1498. Illustrated by Robinet Testard, Paris, BNF, Departement des Manuscrits, Français 143, fol. 116

And competitive pursuits, such as croquet:

Fashion plate showing a croquet ensemble, 1860s

Fashion plate showing a croquet ensemble, 1860s

Croquet skirt, England, c1870, 1947.505, Manchester City Galleries

Croquet skirt, England, c1870, 1947.505, Manchester City Galleries

And tennis

George Goodwin Kilburne (English painter, 1839-1924) A Game of Tennis

George Goodwin Kilburne (English painter, 1839-1924) A Game of Tennis

Or golf:

Golfing ensemble, 1917

Golfing ensemble, 1917

Alternatively, you could be inspired by all the ways we have sought to protect ourselves from outdoors and the elements, from timeless garments like cloaks:

Woollen cloak with silk lining worn in Mobberley in Cheshire by a country bride arriving for her wedding, ca 1800, Manchester City Galleries

Woollen cloak with silk lining worn in Mobberley in Cheshire by a country bride arriving for her wedding, ca 1800, Manchester City Galleries

And the significantly  more specific and exotic items like  chopines:

And calashes:

Calash, ca. 1790, American, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.2889

Calash, ca. 1790, American, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.2889

Whatever you choose to make to get out and about in, I look forward to seeing it!

Rate the Dress: Fra Galgario’s Count in patterns

We missed last week’s Rate the Dress because I was down sick.  Sorry 🙁

The week before, most of you were quite taken with Toulmouche’s blue dress.  There was only one dissenting view, and not that many 10s (there have been many dresses with lower overall scores but more 10/10s) but with a whole swathe of 8 & 9s, the outfit came in at 8.6 out of 10.

This week I’m combining the just-finished HSF theme of ‘Art‘, with the just-started HSF theme of ‘The Politics of Fashion.’  This portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti is a beautiful piece of art, but his garments  also gives us a glimpse into societal changes in the early 18th century.

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

The Count’s waistcoat and banyan are made of exuberantly patterned ‘bizarre’ silks.  As the Age of Enlightenment progressed, patterns became smaller and more naturalistic, reflecting the 18th century obsession with botany.

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

His banyan also shows the increased exposure between the West and India, and the influence that India would have on fashion, and through the demand for Indian goods, commerce and politics, in the later half of the 18th century.

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

Along with the banyan, his hat and stock  make the claim  reinforce the Count’s claim to be a worldly man of intellect.  This is in direct contrast to portraits that demonstrate military prowess, or wealth, and reflects a distinct change in the politics of portraiture, and how status  was portrayed.

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

While not as pointedly, wealth is certainly expressed in the painting, from the luxurious bizarre silks, to his dark stockings:  the black dye would be particularly desirable and expensive.

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti by Vittore Ghislandi (also known as Fra Galgario), ca 1740

From top to toe, the Count has picked his outfit with a specific purpose: to show himself as a wealthy, enlightened, educated, worldly man, aware of the latest trends and newest knowledge.

What do you think?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

 

Guess who figured out how to make stockings?

Meeeeeeee!

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

They are inspired by the stockings worn by Manet’s Nana:

Manet Nana 1877 - detail of stockings

They aren’t perfect because, hey, I’ve only just figured out the pattern, and I didn’t have quite the right shade of blue merino-silk blend knit (also, I doubt I’ll ever be able to find another length of merino-silk knit of any colour), but I am still thrilled with them!

Here is what the pattern looks like:

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

They have a centre back seam, and ‘Cuban’ V heel shapes.

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

There is shaping at the heel and ankle to mold the stockings to my foot.

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

To mimic the embroidery that would decorate the front of a real pair of 1870s stockings, I had a cunning idea.  I have a whole length of amazing vintage floral trim from the amazing Lynne:

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

I cut out two full repeat motifs, and carefully pinned them to the front of my stockings, making sure that they were perfect mirrors of each other:

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

Then I carefully took off the stockings, slipped them over a metal tray, and sewed them down with silk thread, inside and outside the motifs:

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

This was by far the most time-consuming part of making the stockings – an hour to draft and test the pattern, 15 minutes to sew the stockings together, and then an hour and a half of handsewing of the motifs on each stockings.

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

But the end result is pretty spiffy!

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com

I am SO excited, because I’ve always wanted perfectly matched stockings for my outfits, and now I can have them.  This pattern should be reasonable for everything from medieval to the 1930s.  Squee!

The Challenge:  #10  —  Art

Inspiration: Manet’s Nana, 1877

Fabric: 60cm of silk-merino blend knit  (found at an op-shop, can you believe it!).

Pattern:  My own!

Year:  1877

Notions:  2 repeats of vintage embroidery and organza trim, thread.

How historically accurate is it?    Not really. 19th century stockings would be specifically knit as stockings, either by hand or machine, not cut from flat cloth and sewn.  And, for the look I am going for, they would be more likely to be pure silk, not a wool-silk blend.  Plus the motifs should be knit in or embroidered on, not applique!

Hours to complete:  4 hours & 15 min, including figuring out the pattern.  Un-adorned, I can now whip these up in 15 min!

First worn:  Just for  photos, but watch out for a full Nana shoot!.

Total cost:  Believe it or not, I found 2m of the silk-merino knit at an op-shop for $8!  And I could get about 20 pairs of stockings out of that, so 40 cents!

Keep an eye out for the rest of the Nana accessories (shoes!  A chemise!) and a tutorial on how to make your own stockings, because I took really good photos of the process!

1870s Manet's Nana inspired stockings thedreamstress.com