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Rate the Dress: 1780s formalwear and fascinating embroidery

Inspired by all the 1780s sewing and research I did for the Scroop Angelica gown, this week’s Rate the Dress pick is a 1780s dress that showcases the inventiveness and playfulness of 1780s fashion, even within the framework of a very formal dress.

Last weeks (ish) rating: an 1860s formal afternoon dress

The scores for last week’s dress were very consistent: 9/9 for almost half the ratings, with a sprinklings of 7, 8s and 10s just to keep it interesting.

The Total: 8.9 out of 10

Just missing that tiny bit to make it 9!

This week: an 1780s formal gown in embroidered silk

I guess I’m in a very formal mood, because last week’s dress and this week’s dress are both quite formal, and have a certain stiff elegance to them.

Gown “robe parée”, 1780-85, France, silk with applique, embroidery and gauze flounces, Musée des Tissus de Lyon

Gown “robe parée”, 1780-85, France, silk with applique, embroidery and gauze flounces, Musée des Tissus de Lyon

Look closely though, and this dress isn’t as stiff as it seems.  The masterful embroidery on the bodice is asymmetrical, providing visual interest and movement, and leading the eye up to the face.  The trims and and skirt embroidery also evoke texture and movement in a way that is quite distinct from the frothy flirtatiousness of earlier rococo trim: more whimsical and quirky, less sweet and fluttery.

What do you think?  Could you imagine it being worn to court and making a favourable impression?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating: feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

The Angelica Gown: Tester Makes! (Part I)

It’s time for everyone’s favourite part of a pattern launch!  Tester makes!

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

Testers are fabulous!  They allow you to see what the pattern looks like in a whole range of fabrics, styled on in a whole bunch of different ways, on a whole range of bodies.

They also help us make sure we deliver you the best possible pattern.  They point out any bits that are rough or confusing.  They provide feedback on things we can’t decide between: we could include X or Y, but not both.  Which is better from their perspective?

So we are so immensely grateful to the people who are willing to pattern test.  Thank you so much!

There were so many AMAZING testers for the Angelica Gown pattern, and they took so many gorgeous photos, and some of them even made multiple versions of the gown (which has to be a very good sign about how good the pattern is!) that we can’t cover them all in one post, so here’s just a small sampling.  💛

View A:

Natalie of @time_traveling_native

We knew from the minute we thought about testers that we wanted Natalie as a pattern tester for the Angelica Gown.  Natalie’s fairly new to historical costuming, but she’s thoughtful, and meticulous, and checks and asks about things that are confusing.  So she’s the perfect example of the adventurous early intermediate historical costumer who could successfully tackle this pattern.

Image shows a woman with dark hair standing with her back to the camera, wearing a late 18th century gown made of pink and grey striped silk

Based on her make, we can say that she was very successful indeed in making it!  Look at those pleats…  And that bodice fit!

 

Scroop Angelica Gown by @time_traveling_native

Her fabric is a striped silk taffeta from Burnley and Trowbridge.  And she took her photos at Niagara Falls!  How special!

Scroop Angelica Gown by @time_traveling_native

Natalie made a Size 44.

More tester versions of View A coming soon…

View B

Dr Christine of @sewstine

I am waiting on tenterhooks for photos of Christine in her Angelica Gown, because it’s AMAZING!.  She’s reproducing one of my favourite dresses in the Metropolitan Museum of Art! Isn’t the reproduction silk gorgeous?

Scroop Angelica Gown by @sewstine

Christine will be sharing photos and a YouTube video shortly, but for now we have to content ourselves with how glorious her make is on a dressform.

Scroop Angelica Gown by @sewstine

Christine made a Size 34.  The fabric is from @summersunstories

Jessi of @mezzo.jessi

Jessi also chose the most amazing fabric for her Angelica Gown, and I’m dying of how fabulous it is!  It’s equally as brilliant as Christine’s while being totally different!

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @mezzo.jessi

The ankara is SO AMAZING made up – it was birthday fabric and we’re beyond honoured she chose to use it to make up our pattern!

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @mezzo.jessi

Plus, let us take a moment to appreciate her fabulous pocket commentary on the last few years…

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @mezzo.jessi

Jessi made her View B in a Size 48.  There are more images, including beautiful detail shots of the making, on her instagram.

Jen of @festiveattyre

Jen was one of my inspirations when I first started historical costuming, so I was utterly delighted when she applied to be a tester.  I was not disappointed – her Angelica make is SO inspiring!

She styled it as pretty 1780s working wear:

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @festiveattyre

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @festiveattyre

She styled it as 1780s aristocratic elegance:

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @festiveattyre

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @festiveattyre

She styled it as romantic pastoralism:

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @festiveattyre

Scroop + Virgil's Fine Goods Angelica Gown by @festiveattyre

Her gown is made of blue striped wool (thrifted!  As are most of the materials for her accessories!), and is a wonderful example of how versatile this pattern is with different stylings.

Jen made View B in Size 42.  See more of her gorgeous images on my instagram.

A huge thank you to these testers for all their work and feedback.  💛

More tester images coming soon!

Get your Angelica Gown here!

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

Meet the 1780s Angelica Gown!

We are so excited to show you the newest Scroop + Virgil’s Fine Goods pattern!  The gorgeous, delectable, Angelica Gown!

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

Buy the pattern here!  – and get 10% off for the first week!

We know it’s been a long, long wait for the third Scroop Patterns + Virgil’s Fine Goods collaboration, but we think it will have been worth it.

We put so much work into this pattern to make it as well fitted, historically accurate, easy to make, and fun to wear as possible. Hopefully you’ll like the result!

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

The Angelica Gown features three front bodice options, two back bodice options, and a floor length or trained skirt.  Mix and match bodice fronts and backs and skirts for a whole range of looks!

The detailed historically accurate sewing instructions cover everything you need to make your own beautiful versions, from first fitting to final trimming. There’s even a guide to making sleeve ruffles, tuckers, and fichu!

We’ve even developed an extremely clever pattern method for the skirt based on 18th century patterning techniques.

The pattern comes in bust sizes 30”-52” (76-132cm). To help you get the perfect fit there’s a 9-page fitting and pattern alteration guide.

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

Both views feature a fitted bodice which laces closed at the center front, a deeply pointed back, and just-past the elbow sleeves.

The sleeves may be snug, but clever patternmaking means they don’t restrict movement.

Thanks to Amber’s historical knowledge the patterns are filled with meticulous historical details that will help you get the late 1770s-1790s look just right.

View A has a plain bodice front with a short pointed front curve that ends in a truncated V, a three-panel back, and a skirt that finishes just above the floor.

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

View B features a longer sloped V at the front waist, optional serrated trim along the front waist edge, a two-panel back, and a slight train.

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com

Buy the pattern here! – and get 10% off for the first week!

The Angelica Gown is the third collaboration between Scroop Patterns and Virgil’s Fine Goods. Our patterns combine Amber of Virgil’s Fine Goods’ extensive mantua making skills with my patternmaking skills.

Our goal is to bring you easy-to-use historical patterns with comprehensive size ranges and detailed historically-accurate instructions. The patterns are available as downloadable print-at-home patterns, to make historical sewing more accessible to sewists everywhere, and as paper patterns through Virgil’s Fine Goods and other stores.

We’re extremely proud of this pattern, and are so excited to see your versions!

All the gorgeous tester versions will be coming shortly! Their makes are so inspiring. They combined views, used our trim suggestions, and styled the gowns to their own taste.

The Scroop Patterns + Virgils Fine Goods Angelica Gown 1775-1790 scrooppatterns.com