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Rate the Dress: Princess Wilhelmina in green

Last week most of you loved the redingote with its feathered trim, but your reaction to it was fascinating depending on whether you read my description of it as having feathered trim as actual feathers or not.  I rather think that sometimes I should leave things purposely very vague so that the ratings are reactions to what we perceive, vs what we know (but which is the purer truth…?).  Anyhow, manky feathers or elaborate feathered silk aside, the redingote rated a rather nice 8.5 out of 10.  

This week, for the transition from outerwear to green I present Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Prussia, Princess of Orange in a brunswick of deep green checked silk with a pink silk hood lining, cuffs and revers.

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

Her stomacher appears to be made of the same pink silk ribbon as the bow that ties the hood of her brunswick, arranged in an overlapping lattice pattern.

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

The only accessories Wilhelmina wears are a black ribbon around her neck, and a lace cap on her powdered hair.

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

The details of the painting are quite magnificent.  You can almost read her book, and the turn of her slim sleeves (the same sleeves that caused such commentary in the stripey zone front jacket we rated a few months back) is quite obvious thanks to the checked silk.

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

Princess Frederika Sophia Wilhelmina of Orange by Johann Georg Ziesenis, 1768-69

Wilhemina of Orange was a strong, ambitious woman, considered to have been the de-facto ruler of the Dutch Republic, holding more influence and power than her husband, William V of Orange.  They ruled at a volatile time in Dutch history: they were removed from power, returned to power with the help of her brother, Frederick William II of Prussia, and then removed again when the French Revolution changed the balance of power in Europe.  Wilhelmina was much luckier than Marie Antoinette, as she lived out her days in safety in England.

Her character certainly shows in her direct gaze, but it is her frock we are interested in today.  Is the mix of masculine inspired brunswick and girlish pink too much?  Or does she balance the different aesthetic elements in her outfit more successfully than she balanced the opposing political factions in the Dutch Republic?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Steampunk hippo

I found this at an op shop.  It cost me 50 cents.  It’s adorable.  It stands 3.5cm high.  It’s made of some base metal.  Other than that, I know nothing.  Any idea when/where it comes from?  I’m guessing modern & recent.

Steampunk hippo thedreamstress.com

Look at his cute little hippo tush:

Steampunk hippo thedreamstress.com

And his mouth opens!

Steampunk hippo thedreamstress.com

He’s missing one of the screws on the hinges of his jaw.

Steampunk hippo thedreamstress.com

His head turns all the way around too, and all his feet and arms rotate.

Steampunk hippo thedreamstress.com

He has a thing on his head, so you could wear him as a pendant, and one last screw on his tush.

Steampunk hippo thedreamstress.com

When it comes to steampunk hippos, Felicity does not approve.  I think she is worried that he is cuter than she is.

Steampunk hippo & Felicity thedreamstress.com

When I tried to get her to pose with him she kept trying to knock him off the windowsill.

Steampunk hippo & Felicity thedreamstress.com

The Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet

A long, long time ago, Maryanne mentioned that no-one ever made her wearable items as gifts.  Now, as a rule, I never make anyone wearable items as gifts (with the notable exception of the occasional wedding dress and stuff for my mother), but Maryanne is pretty special, and I thought it was high time someone did.

So, a long time ago (confession: this project was meant to be done for Flora & Fauna) I had a voucher for fabric from The Fabric Store, and they had just gotten some luscious silk velvets in, and I offered to make Maryanne a version of my 1930s Capelet in the silk velvet of her choice.  She chose a glorious chocolate brown.  Thich was quite fun for me, as I love chocolate brown but it really doesn’t love me.   I offered to supply the lining as well, but she already had a beautiful silk dupion embroidered with Poiret roses in her stash that she wanted me to use, and no wonder: it’s AMAZING.

Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

So I started making the capelet, but because the velvet and the dupion were both quite wide, I got ambitious and decided to see if I could make up my capelet pattern in one piece, with no centre back seam.

The short answer is: not without a lot of difficulty, as the asymmetrical grain lines go all wonky on the very unstable silk velvet, and are a nightmare to work with.

So there was a great deal of unpicking and re-sewing and muttering dire threats at the silk velvet, and finally I had to resort to entirely hand-sewing the capelet to get it to work, and the long and the short of it is that it wasn’t done for Flora & Fauna.

Instead it sat in a bag for a few months, but last week I fished it out and painstakingly basted and hand sewed and matched grainlines and finished it.  And it’s done now!  And it’s worth it!

Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

And did I mention that it is totally reversible?

Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

And Hurrah!  Maryanne likes it too!  Mission accomplished!

Maryanne in the Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

She looks much better in it than Isabelle, because she has the shoulders to carry it off.

Maryanne in the Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com

The Challenge:  #20:  Outerwear

Fabric:  1/2 metre silk velvet, 1/2 metre embroidered silk dupion.

Pattern:  My own, taken from an original vintage piece

Year:  ca. 1938

Notions:  Thread

How historically accurate is it?  The pattern is taken from an extent piece, but I’ve modified it to be a shorter cape.  However there are examples of later 30s short capes.  The silk velvet is a period accurate fabric, and the colour is period appropriate.  The silk dupion lining is the only slightly out of period factor.  80%

Hours to complete:  After 6 months, I’m not sure anymore.

First worn: Today!  She  immediately put it on and dashed out to her evenings entertainment!

Total cost:  Lots and lots of love

Since the resident cat’s feelings about this item are irrelevant as it isn’t going to live in her house, I’ll leave you with this photo of Maryanne being ridiculous in her new cape.  It seemed to bring out the sill in her!

Maryanne in the Chocolate & Roses 1930s capelet thedreamstress.com