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Fashions for June and January 1906

I’m currently dreaming of early 20th century fashions, with rather bad effects on my practical, reasonable sewing schedule.  I’ve been naughty and gone off on a sewing tangent.

Girl's Own Magazine, June 1906

I’ll give you a hint.  It involves greek keys.

Girl's Own Magazine, June 1906

Hmmmmm….

I’m also intrigued by all the diagonals in these 1906 fashion plates.  What an interesting way to play with fabric.  I’m not sure if I’d go as far as to say I want to make the black spotted chiffon and white satin frock number ‘admirable suited for a young matrons” (that’s me, right?) in this plate:

Girl's Own Magazine, January 1906

I do like the advice on sales at the top of the article:

Now is the time to pick up bargains in skirt lengths, and remnants for blouses and odd lengths in net and laces for making into chemisettes for house gowns.  Sales really come as a boon and a bonus for those who must make a brave show on a really  small dress allowance, but on the other hand they are often the cause of bitter disappointment and regret, for many women get carried away by the excitement of finding bargains and lay up for themselves a stock of rubbish.

Girl's Own Magazine, January 1906

Still true!

Remember the Nana corset?

I started it oh, more than a year and a half ago.  Here is what it looks like today:

The 1877 'Nana' corset thedreamstress.com

(hint: it’s the blue one)

Yeah. It’s still not quite done.

The problem is that I got it perfectly finished to the point of wearability, didn’t have an event to wear it to, and thus haven’t been really motivated to finish it.

Nana, Edouard Manet, 1877

Nana, Edouard Manet, 1877

It is (obviously) inspired by Manet’s Nana, which rather amuses me, because I’m pretty much as far as you could get from Zola’s Nana as a person!

So what does it need to be finished?  Sleeves straps.  That’s it.

The 1877 'Nana' corset thedreamstress.com

I’m hoping the ‘Wood, Metal, Bone’ challenge will motivate me to finish it, though in retrospect I should really have finished it for Literature!

Still, even not-quite-done, I think it looks rather spiffy on me.

The 1877 'Nana' corset thedreamstress.com

It’s so, so,  so  comfortable!  1870s corsets with gussets really are amazing.

The 1877 'Nana' corset thedreamstress.com

Compare it to the original:

Manet's Nana, 1877 (detail)

Manet’s Nana, 1877 (detail)

And my favourite of this series of boring-white-wall timer shots:

The 'Nana' corset thedreamstress.com

Frou-frou francaise progress (and Fissy)

I’m stitching away at the ca. 1760  robe  Ã   la française, in between teaching classes and giving lectures and marking papers and re-fashioning shoes and drafting patterns and being a human being.

I started with drafting a pattern:

ca. 1760 Robe a la Francaise toile thedreamstress.com

Then I sewed up a linen support bodice, and worked eyelets down the back, so that I could tighten it with laces:

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

Then there was a great deal of sewing huge lengths of fabric together with teeny-tiny hand stitches.  Time consuming, but not very interesting!

Then I pleated the back pleating, and hand-stitched it down with silk thread.

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

Then I basted at the shoulder seams, and down the side seams, and cut the fabric down to the waist, and out for the front skirts:

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

I’ve figured out the side pleating, and marked the lines to cut down for pocket slits, and finishing those is my next task.  Then on to side pleating, front bodice attaching, hemming, sleeve construction, sleeve insertion, finishing, and trimming.  Makes it sound so simple!

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

I’ve dubbed it the frou-frou  française,  because the fabric is just so deliciously scroop-y.

Felicity loves the scroop.  The taffeta is like catnip to her.  It figures that I’d manage to have a cat that is totally indifferent to catnip, and goes mad over silk!

Every time the fabric comes out, so does the cat:

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

Yes indeed, this shall be mine…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

I shall lie on it…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

…and hide under it…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

…and sleep on it…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

…and play with it…

And generally be utterly adorable and totally annoying!