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Rate the Dress: Winter Fantasy

I was quite surprised by the very enthusiastic response to Queen Adelaide last week.  The 1830s are usually so unpopular, and Adelaide’s velvet and lace dress had so much potential for ridicule, and yet so many of you loved it, giving it an 8.4 out of 10.  Sweets to the sweet then!

This week I thought I’d carry on the zig-zag vandyked theme that we have had for the last few weeks, and (since it is Christmas), give you a bonus double rate the dress.    What do you think of these two young ladies and their festive skating attire?

Skating, late 1860s

I don’t know a great deal about this artwork.  Based on the overall silhouettes and the trim on the garments, I think it’s late 1860s, and I doubt it was really intended to be literally copied in actual garments, but, hey, every once in a while we can have a little fun with fantasy!

Are our heroines having fun with fantasty?  How would you rate each of their frocks?  Do you prefer the blonde in her fur-trimmed green jacket and pink and red skirt with vandykes and pleating?  Or the brunette in her red military inspired jacket, with blue-grey skirt and yellow gloves?  Are they a perfect holiday scene, or a terrible example of Victorian mis-matching?

Rate the Dresses on a Scale of 1 to 10

The Historical Sew Fortnightly – come sew with me!

One year, a challenge every fortnight, and at the end of it, 26 fabulous historical garments.

The Historical Sew Fortnightly at the Dreamstress.com

How it works:

Every fortnight in 2013 I’ll post a themed challenge and we’ll each sew (or knit, or crochet, or tatt, or embroider, or whatever it is you call making a hat, or otherwise create) a historical garment or accessory that fits the theme.

I’ll post the challenges 7 ahead, so that you have plenty of time to plan and work on more elaborate challenges. You can do as many or as few of the challenges you want — I’ll be trying my best to do all 26, but if you can only do 6, that’s fine.

For the purpose of the Historical Sew Fortnightly, ‘historical’ means 75 years or older, so pre 1938.

Your item can be as basic or elaborate as you want, from a simple fichu to fill in the neckline of a gown, to a full ensemble from the undergarments outward: whatever you need and can can handle time and skill-wise.

I’m hoping that the HSF encourages research and historical accuracy, but (unless that is the nature of the challenge), but the level of accuracy is really up to you, your desires, skills, and your resources.

The dates for the challenges are the dates that the challenge is due (post it anytime in the fortnight after).  You can start your project as early as you need to get it done in time – it doesn’t have to be done in the two weeks.

Feel free to blog about the process of making your project, or use an UFO that you have already blogged about.

 

How to participate:

  • Join the Historical Sew Fortnightly group on Facebook. The challenges are listed as events, and you can choose to ‘attend’ them, chat with other attendees, get ideas, encouragement, and work through difficulties. Then, when your item is done, you can post photos in the album for each challenge, give a description, and link to an online photo album or a blog post if you have one.

Or…

  • Participate through the Historical Sew Fortnightly page  on my blog. There will be a page for each challenge as they come up. I’ll post inspiration for the challenge, perhaps a tutorial or links to helpful sites, and, when the challenge comes due, my creation.You can leave a comment on the page with links to your blog post or online photo album to show off your creation. I’ll pick my favourite interpretation of each challenge to feature on my blog each fortnight.

    Grab the button below or the slightly larger version in my sidebar, and post it in your sidebar.  Be sure to link it to the Historical Sew Fortnightly page.  With WordPress your html will look like this:

    <a href=” https://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/”><img src=”https://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/HSFsm.jpg” ></a>  (unless, of course, you save the image to your computer and re-upload it, in which case your image address will look different)

 The Historical Sew Fortnightly at thedreamstress.com

The goals:

  • To encourage collaborations and interactions in the historical costuming community;
  • To encourage all of us to do more historical research, to improve our standards of historical accuracy, and to expand our historical sewing skills;
  • To provide excuses to sew amazing garments from throughout history;
  • To provide incentive to photograph these garments so they can be shared and appreciated;
  • And most of all…
  • To have fun!

The ‘Madame Monet’ underbust corset

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset

The inspiration for this corset was Claude Monet’s portrait of his wife, Camille, in a kimono against a background of Japanese fans, reflecting the mania for all things Japanese that was sweeping Europe in the wake of Japan’s opening to the West.

La Japonaise, Madame Monet en costume japonais, 1876, MFA Boston

La Japonaise, Madame Monet en costume japonais, 1876, MFA Boston

I’ve like way the underbust corset echos both an obi and the Western fashions of the 1870s, playing on the influences in Monet’s painting.  And I love the fabric I chose and the way it also echoes the blend of East and West: using traditional Japanese motifs and weaving techniques for a fabric that was intended for the very Western practice of quilt making.

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset

I lined the corset in some fabric left over from my  Ice Cream Banana blouse, and bound it with some vintage polished cotton.  I wish the front busk was gold, to match the gilding on the fabric and the gold grommets and aiglets, but gold busks are almost twice the price of silver, and take weeks to order in.

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset

For the photoshoot I pinned all of my Japanese fans to the wall to mimic Monet’s painting, put on a 3/4 length black silk kimono and a LBD, and did my hair in my best  deshabille  1870s bun.

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset

I’m wearing the corset quite loosely laced because I’m still finding it a tiny bit difficult to breath properly after being sick.

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset

I have a newfound respect for Camille Monet after posing for these pictures.  The arm and fan angle in Monet’s painting are really awkward to hold, and craning my neck back like that gave me a terrible crick in it, and I only had to hold that pose long enough for the camera to snap a few shots!  Poor Camille, even if Monet was working from a photograph (something we know some Impressionist painters did, especially with portraits), standing in that pose for the length of time required with 1870s photographic technology would have been no picnic!

At first I played with making my photos more ‘impressionistic’, but since I photographed against the plain background, there was nothing to blur but me, which rather ruins the point of a garment post!  Instead I’ve sharpened them slightly, to give a bit of an  ukiyo-e  ‘floating world’ effect.

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset

Just the facts, Ma’am:

Fabric:  .5 metres of Japanese fan-print barkcloth ($5), .5 metres of cotton voile left over from the yellow challenge ($3), 1m coutil for flat lining (been in my stash so long I can’t remember what I paid for it).

Pattern:  My own

Year:  2011

Notions:  Corset busk, spring steel boning, feather boning, corset laces, aigletes, grommets, binding ($65)

And the insides?  Practically reversible

Hours to complete:  6, stretched over 6 weeks

Total cost:  $73

The 'Madame Monet' underbust corset