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Morning dress, ca. 1806, American, cotton, wool, Gift of George V. Masselos, in memory of Grace Ziebarth, 1976, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1976.142.2

Rate the Dress: an early 19th century embroidered morning dress

After a smashingly successful evening event (and you definitely thought last week’s evening dress was a smashing success), a well dressed lady wants something simple but elegant to slip in to for a relaxed morning.  So this week we’re going back in time a century with a simple morning dress with wrapped bodice.  It’s a very different garment than last week’s dress.  Will you like it as much?

Last Week:  a 1910s evening dress in copper and bronze

If there was one downside to last week’s Rate the Dress it was that it was tricky to keep track of all the 10/10 ratings!  You looooooooved the dress.  The worst rating it got was a single, lonely 8.

The Total: 9.9 out of 10

A Rate the Dress milestone!  Once, in the first year of Rate the Dress, there was a 10/10 rating.  Since then the highest rating ever achieved was 9.7.

This week: An early 19th century embroidered morning dress

This week’s morning dress carries on last week’s copper and rust colour scheme, only worked in wool embroidery on cotton, rather than in silk and metal on silk georgette.

This style of dress would have been worn by a wealthy woman in the morning, before getting dressed in more elaborate clothes for afternoon and evening events, or as a simple at-home frock if she wasn’t planning to go out or to host a formal event.

The simple wrap construction of the bodice would have made the dress easy to put on, and the restrained colour scheme is in keeping with the overall air of informality.    The details of the dress, from the scalloped hem, to the pointed collar, the intentionally over-long sleeves, and caught-up over-sleeves, suggest a wearer with an interest in fashion, a desire to stay a la mode, and the money to do so.

What do you think?  The perfect relaxed frock for the day after being belle of the ball?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner

It’s winter here in New Zealand, and cold and dark and windy and rainy.

My local historical costuming friends and I decided to brighten up the shortest (ish) day of the year, and have an 18th century dinner.

We researched, we made food, we dressed up, and we had a lovely time.

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

I finished my newest Amalia Jacket just in time. Nina finished her warp printed silk Amalia as well (so exciting!).  And we made Miss Four a Norland Frock.

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

I’m in love with this Amalia!  I can’t wait to tell you all about it!

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

And a lovely time was had by all!

The Menu:

Vegetarian Oille:

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

I used this recipe, which is the most ridiculous recipe possible (yes, it’s even topped with gold leaf) and should not be attempted unless you have 8 hours, 3 sous chefs, the patience of a saint, and can read minds.

I realised partway through that it wasn’t remotely accurate as an 18th c oille. By that point I had already devoted three days of my life to testing the recipe, and had the only chervil plant to be found for love or money in Wellington ensconced on my warmest windowsill, being alternately bribed, coddled, and threatened a la Crowley  to THRIVE.  I was not giving up.  So it’s a sort of conceptual oille: a wild assortment of extremely expensive vegetables, instead of extremely expensive meat.

Also, it’s not worth the effort.

Salmon mousse and crackers

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

Mandrang Salad (1773)

This fabulous cucumber salad, which probably originated in the West Indies, shows up in a 1773 cookbook, and is reproduced in one of Mary-Anne Boerman’s excellent cookbooks.

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

The original recipe called for chillies, but we substituted horseradish to accomodate an allergy, a twist that I can well imagine an 18th c cook resorting to if chillies weren’t available.  I also made my version non-alcoholic, and used a dash of mandarin juice along with lemon juice, an alteration that seemed very fitting, as everyone I mentioned the salad to originally assumed it was a mandarin salad.

Mrs Frazer’s dish of Macaroni (1791), Cauliflowers fried, Brockely Sallad, Potato Pudding, Dressed Mushrooms (1700)

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

I’ve been advocating hard for a mac n cheese 18th c dinner, because it amuses me that it’s so plebeian today, but was an exotic luxury food in the late 18th c.

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

 

The cauliflower, broccoli and potato recipes are all out of Hannah Glasse’s Art of Cookery.

The cauliflower was fine, but looked like the perfect dish for a gross Halloween dinner.  The broccoli is fabulous, and I’m definitely adding broccoli with vinegar dressing to my cooking repertoire.  We were also delighted to discover that the 18th c preference was apparently for very crunchy veges.

Potato pudding is definitely a pudding, and I love it.  I loved it so much I had two helpings, which was a bad choice considering we still had three courses to go…

The broccoli did lead to a fascinating discussion of why and how broccoli was clearly widely known in 18th century England, and yet almost completely unknown in early 20th c New Zealand.  At what point did it drop into obscurity?

Persimmon ices

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

Croquembouche and syllabub

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

Our syllabub was non-alcoholic, so not accurate, but soooo delicious…

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

Fabulous!

A midwinter Georgian dinner thedreamstress.com

Banner showing line drawings of four petticoats and reading 'call for pattern testers'

Call for pattern testers for a petticoat (or skirt!) pattern with options from 1890-1920

I’ve been hard at worn on the next  Scroop Pattern, and have a fabulous, versatile petticoat (or modern skirt) pattern ready to test.  So, that means I need testers to help make sure it’s absolutely perfect!

If you’d like to help test the petticoat, keep reading to learn all about it, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

Scroop Petticoat Line Drawings

A versatile four-gored petticoat with all the delicious finishing details that make late-Victorian and early 20th century lingerie so beautiful.

With four views based on extant garments and original patterns, the pattern creates the correct silhouette for fashions from 1890-1920, but also looks fantastic as a modern skirt.

View A works perfectly under the Fantail Skirt.  View B is great for the slim silhouette of  1909-1914.  Views C & D are perfect for the Kilbirnie Skirt and other mid-1910s skirts.

Make it in silk or lawn as a historical petticoat, or linen as a modern skirt.

The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist.

Scroop Petticoat Size Chart

Testers:

This is an easy-intermediate pattern.  Prior historical sewing experience is not required, but testers should be comfortable with both machine and hand sewing.

The pattern features historically accurate construction details.  It’s been designed as a historical petticoat pattern, but can also be worn as a modern skirt.

As part of the application you’ll need to indicate if you plan to test this as a historical garment or as a modern skirt.  If it’s the first you’ll need have a photo of yourself in a corset that matches the era of the view you plan to make (i.e. if you want to make View B, C or D you’ll need a 1910s corset like the  Rilla Corset) that you can send a link for.

To be a tester you will need to:

  • Be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • Have the time to sew up the item. You’ll have 10 days (with two full weekends) to make a finished petticoat, photograph it, and provide feedback (for reference, I can make either view in under 6 hours from cut to finish)
  • Be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • Provide clear feedback
  • Agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern

I would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers.

As always I’m looking for a range of testers. I need a spread of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

Social Media

Having a social media presence helps your chances of being chosen as a tester, but isn’t necessarily a requirement.

I’m significantly more likely to choose testers who have an online social media presence, as that means I can really see and analyse their sewing, and how they think about sewing, when I’m choosing testers.

I do occasionally choose testers who don’t have social media, especially if they fill a less common demographic.

The Timeline:

Materials:

If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by  6pm NZ time on Thursday the 15th of July.   This is Wed the 14th for most of the rest of the world.

Lace:

An important heads up: this pattern uses a LOT of lace.  Views A & C use just under 10 yards/9 meters (7 1/4 yards/ 6.5 meters of insertion lace, and 2 3/4 yards/2.5m hemming lace) in Size 40.

Patterns:

I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before  10pm NZ time on Friday the 23th of July.

Testing & Reviewing:

This should be a fairly quick, easy sew.  Testing will go for 10 days.

Testers will have until  10pm NZ time on Monday the 2nd of August  to finish their petticoat/skirt and provide photos and feedback.

To Apply:

Fill out this form!

Make sure you have a link to an image of yourself in a period-appropriate corset if you plan to make a historical version.

Scroop Petticoat Testers Wanted

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and IG.