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Rate the Dress: Bustle Era Historicism

Life’s been a little hectic for me lately, and unfortunately blogging hasn’t been a top priority.  I can’t promise I’ll be able to get back to a regular schedule right away, but the worst of the stresses have been lifted.  Hopefully life, and blogging, will be a little more stable in the near future.

The last Rate the Dress I posted was so practical and timeless that a number of you mentioned that you’d happily wear it today.  This week’s dress is very of its time, although it heavily references another era, and would definitely make most modern activities a little tricky!

Last Week:  a 1910s day dress with touches of colour

The day dress was very popular.  At worst you found it dignified but not particularly interesting, at best you were wildly in love with it and wanted; to wear it everyday/recreate it/a pattern of it.

The only real criticism it received was for the collar and collar colour (say that three times fast!).  You weren’t convinced by the shape, or the mix of hues.

The Total: 8.9 out of 10

Not quite as fabulous as the banyan, but an impressive rating nonetheless.

This week: an 1870s dress with 18th century inspiration:

Since the last Rate the Dress was practical and wearable, here’s one that’s just a little bit frivolous.

Dress in two parts, 1886, silk, Nicholson and Wordley of Camden Town, London Fashion Museum Bath

Dress in two parts, 1886, silk, Nicholson and Wordley of Camden Town, London Fashion Museum Bath

Historicism was wildly fashionable in the late 19th century.  Couturiers like Worth borrowed liberally from a whole range of eras: Elizabethan ruffs, Renaissance slashing, and 18th century engageantes all make appearances in Victorian dress.

This week’s dress is based on the 18th century, with the aforementioned engageante inspired sleeves, a laced stomacher effect front, and a neckline that references the low square necklines of the Georgian era, and the crossover lace fichu seen in some portraits (like this one of Marie Kunigunde of Saxony, and this one of Madame Sophie of France, and this one of Mary Little, Lady Carr).

Dress in two parts, 1886, silk, Nicholson and Wordley of Camden Town, London Fashion Museum Bath

Dress in two parts, 1886, silk, Nicholson and Wordley of Camden Town, London, Fashion Museum Bath

It also has an aproned overskirt that resembles the picked up aprons seen in 18th century pastoralist art and portraits (like this one of Mary, Countess of Howe), and a bustled skirt that hints at Georgian picked-up skirts.

Despite all this, I don’t think it’s a costume: simply a very fanciful dress.  Compared to other fancy dress of the era it’s too subdued, and there are too many other examples of equally fanciful historicism inspired garments.

What do you think?  Does this example of 1880s historybounding-meets-everyday-Disney-princess make your heart happy?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Amalia Jacket and 18th century dress ups thedreamstress.com

Cartwheels in Corsets, or Proof That Stays Don’t Stop You From Moving

One of the things that people who have never worn a properly fitted corset or pair of stays say is “Oh, they are so confining and restrictive”.

Properly made, they really aren’t!

Proof?

Back in October when Stella and Priscilla and I had fun playing Georgian dress ups, Priscilla wore these Augusta Stays under her Georgian gentleman’s outfit.

Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

Proof that you can move in the Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

I was photographing Stella looking all dreamy and gorgeous…

Proof that you can move in the Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

And Priscilla decided to photobomb us…by literally cartwheeling in!

Proof that you can move in the Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

Proof that you can move in the Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

 

Proof that you can move in the Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

So yeah, if you can do a cartwheel into a handstand in stays and heels, you can definitely move in them!

Proof that you can move in the Augusta Stays thedreamstress.com

Call for Pattern Testers for a 1910s skirt pattern!

It’s that time again!  Scroop Patterns has a lovely new 1910s skirt pattern ready to test.  So, that means I need testers to help make sure it’s absolutely perfect.

1915-18 Skirt Testers Wanted Skirt Pattern

If you’d like to help test the skirt, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

A playful gathered skirt based on an original ca. 1916 garment. It features the Edwardian version of a ‘paper bag’ waist: a very high waist held in place with a boned internal waistband, with cord gathering and a small standing frill.

1915-18 Skirt Testers Wanted Skirt Pattern

The pattern goes from a 24”/61cm waist to a 50”/127cm waist.

The gathered shape means that the hip measurements are free: the finished garment measures more than 20”/50cm wider in the hips than in the waist.

1915-18 Skirt Testers Wanted Skirt Pattern

Testers:

This is an easy-intermediate pattern.  Prior historical sewing experience is not required, but testers should be comfortable with both machine and hand sewing.

The pattern features historically accurate construction details.  It’s been designed as a historical pattern, but could also work for historybounding.

I’m primarily looking for testers who want to wear this as a historical garment, and have the correct undergarments to wear it with.  As part of the application you’ll need to indicate if you plan to test this as a historical garment, or for historybounding.  If it’s the first you’ll need have a photo of yourself in a 1915-18 suitable corset (such as the Rilla Corset) that you can send a link for.

To be a tester you will need to:

  • Be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • Have the time to sew up the item. You’ll have two week to make a finished skirt, photograph it, and provide feedback (for reference, I can make either view in under 6 hours from cut to finish)
  • Be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • Provide clear feedback
  • Agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern

I would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers.

As always I’m looking for a range of testers. I need a spread of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

Social Media

Having a social media presence helps your chances of being chosen as a tester, but isn’t necessarily a requirement.  I’m significantly more likely to choose testers who have an online social media presence, as that means I can really see and analyse their sewing, and how they think about sewing, when I’m choosing testers. I do occasionally choose testers who don’t have social media, especially if they fill a less common demographic.

The Timeline:

Materials:

If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by  6pm NZ time on Sunday the 16th of May.   This is Sat the 15th for most of the rest of the world.

Patterns:

I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before  10pm NZ time on Monday the 24th of May.

Testing & Reviewing:

This should be a fairly quick, easy sew.  Testing will go for two weeks.

Testers will have until  10pm NZ time on Monday the 7th of June  to finish their skirt and provide photos and feedback.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and IG.

To Apply:

Fill out the Application Form!

Hope to hear from you!