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Dress in two parts, 1896, silk, lace and passementerie, 10592:001-002 Centraal Museum Utrecht

Rate the Dress: Late Victorian Velvet

This post is late because I booked my schedule to the limit without giving myself any space for emergencies and things going wrong – which meant of course there were, and they did!  It’s also late because my browser freezes every time I visit the Centraal Museum’s website, which is rather annoying when you’re trying to Rate a Dress from that site.

Last Week: An 1810s dress of pink roll-printed cotton, with lots of frills

Comments on last week’s dress focused on how frilly and pink and youthful it was – and how much it reminded some of you of a nightgown!  For some people that wasn’t an issue, or even made the dress more charming.  For others….not so much.

The Total: 7.6 out of 10

Looking like a nightgown was a little too much for some of you, and the rating definitely reflects that.

This week: a mid 1890s dress in red silk faille and silk velvet

A number of the comments on last week’s dress focused on how girlish it was.  I feel confident in saying that week’s dress is definitely not a debutant frock.

The deep red shades and heavy fabrics are definitely one for a mature woman who was not afraid to make a statement.

I picked this dress for Rate the Dress almost entirely based on the front bodice decoration.  The rest of the dress is very nice and typical of its time (although I feel that the bustle its been staged with is too large – a common fault with the Centraal Museum’s costume staging), but the frayed fringing is interesting.  And interesting is what makes Rate the Dress fun.

The dress has many elements of 18th century historicism: the deep, square neckline; a petticoat and stomacher effect front; and the length of the sleeves and lace engageantes.   The frayed fringing is a nod to 18th century pinked trim, with a Victorian twist.

The last time I showed a dress with frayed fringing the trim was not particularly popular.  Will this dress receive a different reception?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Edwardian-inspired fabulosity on Emily

A few months ago Nataya contacted me through instagram and asked if I’d do a sponsored post featuring one of their dresses.

I don’t generally do sponsored posts because I have to actually love and need a thing in order to feel comfortable marketing it.  And I really don’t need any more pretty frocks…

But I knew about Nataya because my friend Emily has raved about their dresses.  She’d always wanted to have the excuse to have one.  Hmmmmmm…

Someone who I love and owe a lot of favours to (Emily is my tech wizard for this blog and Scroop Patterns!) loves the dresses and would look amazing in them…

I sense a plan coming on!

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

So I had a chat with Nataya and Emily, and they both agreed to a post featuring Emily in her favourite Nataya frock.  Three weeks ago a gorgeous dress arrived in the post in pretty pink packaging!  This is the 40163 Downton Abbey Tea Gown in mauve in size 2x.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Emily tried it on, and I did a little tailoring to make it fit her perfectly.  We were both actually very impressed by how well it fit even before the alterations.

Emily is 5’2″ and super curvy.  We added bust darts to the lining (100% cotton so it’s cool!) to make it fit at the bust.  We took in the shoulder seams 1″, and the back waist 1.5″.  Finally we added gathers on the sleeve hems, which both petite-iffy the sleeve length, and worked with Emily’s slimmer-than-average-for-her-bust-size arms.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Emily accessorised the dress with two antique Edwardian necklaces she owns, vintage lace gloves, and vintage shoes.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.comWe added a bunch of roses to my re-re-re-re-make hat (which I guess makes it a re-re-re-re-re-make now!), and she borrowed my pagoda parasol to complete the look.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

And then we spent a delicious afternoon exploring the Ashton Norwood gardens in Upper Hutt

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Emily brought some special antiques: a family handkerchief, and a very special fan.  We got some photos of them for her family.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

Altogether we had an absolutely lovely time.  Emily looked stunning and I’m thrilled I had the opportunity to practice my photography skills.

Edwardian costuming for non-sewists thedreamstress.com

And I’m very impressed with the dress as a non-sewing option for Edwardian costuming.  I think I need to throw an Edwardian garden party now!

Selina Testers Wanted scrooppatterns.com

Call for Pattern Testers for a new 1910s blouse pattern!

UPDATE: Applications are now closed.  Thank you to everyone who applied!

I’m extremely excited that I have a new 1910s blouse pattern ready to test – which of course means I need testers to help make sure it’s as awesome as possible.

Selina Testers Wanted scrooppatterns.com

If you’d like to help test the blouse, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

A classic 1910s blouse based on an extant example, featuring design details which first appeared in high-fashion in late 1913, and which were most popular from 1915-18.

Selina Line Drawings ScroopPatterns.com

Testers:

This is an intermediate pattern.  Prior historical sewing experience is not required, but testers should be comfortable making garments and sewing buttonholes.

The pattern features historically accurate construction details.  It’s been designed as a historical pattern, but could also work for historybounding.

I’m primarily looking for testers who want to wear this as a historical garment, and have the correct undergarments to wear it with.  As part of the application you’ll need to indicate if you plan to test this as a historical garment, or for historybounding.  If it’s the first you’ll need have a photo of yourself in a 1913-18 suitable corset (such as the Rilla Corset) that you can send a link for.

To be a tester you will need to:

  • Be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • Have the time to sew up the item. You’ll have one week to sew a toile and check the initial fit, and a further two week to make a finished blouse, photograph it, and provide feedback (for reference, I can make View A from fabric to done in under 6 hours)
  • Be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • Provide clear feedback
  • Agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern

I would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers.

As always I’m looking for a range of testers. I need a spread of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

The Timeline:

Materials:

If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by  6pm NZ time on Wednesday the 10th of March.   This is Tue the 9th for most of the rest of the world.

Patterns:

I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before  10pm NZ time on Tuesday the 16th of March.

Testing & Reviewing:

This should be a fairly quick, easy sew.  Testing will go for three weeks. We will ask for a toile check in one week in.

Testers will have until  10pm NZ time on Tuesday the 23rd of March  to do an initial toile of the blouse and respond to the initial set of testing questions.

I’ll need testers to be finished with their blouse and provide photos and feedback by  10pm NZ Time on Tuesday the 6th of April.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and our IGs.

To Apply:

Fill out the Application Form!

Hope to hear from you!