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Rate the Dress: Fresh green française stripes

This week’s Rate the Dress may be familiar to many of you.  For others, it may be a happy (or, this being Rate the Dress, indifferent) introduction.  Whichever the case, I hope you enjoy looking at it more closely!

Last Week:  an 1810s dress is very, very yellow silk

There’s quite a lot that people agreed on about last week’s frock.  You agreed the dress was indeed very historically-accurate-Bridgerton-esque.  That it was most likely later than the date given by the family (which did mean it was exactly the right era to be worn by the sisters).  You almost all thought the sleeves were very nice indeed.  And that the hem treatment was clumsy and unrefined, but that the overall effect was deliciously sunny and happy.

In fact, this was one of the most concensus-y dresses we’ve had in a long time.  There was two ratings for 10, and one for 6, but every other rating clusetered in the 7-9 range, with the vast majority at 8-8.5.  Which means it should be no surprise that the final tally is…

The Total: 8.2 out of 10

A very cohesive rating.

This week: a 1770-80 française in green striped silk

I’ve had this dress on my ‘to feature on Rate the Dress’ list for a long time.  Despite that, I really debated whether to feature this dress as a Rate the Dress.  It’s so well known that it seems redundant to show it.

I finally decided to because it seems unfair not to showcase well known garments: after all, that removes so many of the most visually striking, well photographed dresses out there!

This Robe à  la française dates to the last decade in which the française was still a  fashionable choice, instead of a conservative choice.

The  française may have been on the decline, but this one still demonstrates up-to-the-minute design elements.  Gone are the floating rococo ruffles, replaced by linear trim held down by multiple lines of stitching.  Even the ‘fly fringing’ silk trim is features small, controlled repeats.  The attached stomacher is also typical of this decade.

Interestingly, the striped silk fabric was imported from China.  It’s a great illustration of how extensive the fabric trading networks were at the time, and how the fabrics being imported also reflected changing European tastes.  Instead of the painted florals and exotic scenes that were only available in imported fabrics, these serene stripes could have been woven in Europe, but the fabric was still worth bringing in.

What do you think of this green française with its play on stripes?  Is it the perfect example of late era française?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Averil’s Amalia Jacket

I’ve shown you all of the Amalia tester jackets, except this one!

 

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Averil is a friend, and my local tester.  I always like to have at least one tester who I know, so I can see the garment as they make it, and assess any fit issues and things that come up in person.  

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Plus, Averil helped test how accessible the Amalia Jacket pattern is to new historical sewist.  She hasn’t been sewing for very long full stop, and I only tempted her to the dark and full-of-handsewing side at the end of 2019.  

The Frances Rump from Scroop Patterns

She took to it like a duck to water, and has since made a Fantail Skirt, a 1360s dress, and a full 18th century ensemble – fichu, Augusta Stays, shift, petticoat, apron, and then the Amalia jacket.  

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

So she’s doing a great job of what’s possible as a new costumer with a little help and a lot of determination.  And I think her Amalia Jacket is just gorgeous.  

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

She managed to squeak the whole ensemble out of 4 yards of Colonial Williamsburg’s (possibly discontinued?) ‘Francis Open Floral’.  

I’d bought for a specific project, and then decided wasn’t quite right for my project, so sold it to her.  Selling it is change of mind I both really regret now that I see how beautiful her Amalia ensemble is, and really don’t regret now that I see how beautiful her Amalia ensemble is!

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

I helped Averil cut the jacket, because pattern layouts are my superpower.  There was some rather elaborate wrangling that had to go in to this to jacket to get it and the petticoat out of only 4 yards of 44” / 112cm wide fabric – and the only place she had to piece was on the very bottom of the inside sleeves!  

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

When we were done there was just enough fabric left for Nina to have a small square for the hussif she’s putting together.    It’s turning into an ode to the local Amalia Jackets, because she’s also asked for a bit of mine!  

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Now that we’ve all admired how beautiful the outfit is, and how fabulous Averil looks in it and my 18th century brain hat (which I apparently forgot to ever write a post about!), let’s have some silliness…

Because silliness is one of the many things that makes Averil fabulous, and is part of why we love her so much!  

Whether it’s chortling over how much the wind reveals the contours of your Francis Rump

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Or Averil doing a spot-on impression of me posing for photos, complete with running commentary about “first I shall point my toe and gesture elegantly with my hands, and now I’m going to inspect this leaf, and then I’ll just gaze wistfully into the distance while tilting my head to the left, and now I’ll try gazing wistfully into the distance while tilting my head to the right…”  

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Or me exacting my revenge by catching Averil and Kezia having a very excited conversation about how beautiful each other’s costumes are…

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

And how large kiwi eggs are:

Scroop Patterns & Virgil's Fine Goods Amalia Jacket

(don’t ask me.  I have no idea how they got from “oooh, your ruffles are amazing!’ to ‘and their eggs are this size and take up 1/3 of their body!” 🤣)

Great pattern tester, great woman, great times!  

Where to donate fabric & crafty bits in New Zealand

I get a lot of inquiries from people who are de-cluttering their own life, or clearing out relative’s fabric stashes, and want to know where the best place to donate them is.

It’s particularly common this time of year, in the post-Christmas  clean-out rush, so I thought I’d make things easy for myself, and anyone wondering about this, and answer it comprehensively once and for all!*

These suggestions are New Zealand specific, but you may find similar organisations in your own country to donate your own stash to.

I’m based in Wellington, so my suggestions are somewhat Welly-centric, but I’ve tried to give ideas that will apply across the country.

My suggestions for where to donate things are based on ideal use.  Hopefully by donating your sewing bits to these places they will be able to be used by people who know what the items are and what they are worth, and love sewing and making.  I’ve chosen the places with the best chance that will happen.  After that it’s up to you: what types of charities do you want to support!

Sewing, Fashion & Costuming Programmes

Want the fabrics, patterns, and sewing things you need to get rid of to be used by creative learners?  Many secondary schools with sewing/fashion courses, as well as tertiary institutions focused on fashion and costuming, will take donations of fabrics.  

Look up the head of department for the schools near you, or simply email or call the front desk and as to speak to the right person.  Not all schools have places to store lots of stuff, so be sure to call/email and ask.  Definitely don’t just show up with a bunch of fabric!  

The Costume Construction course at Toi Whakaari gets donations of fabric and sewing goods fairly often.  It’s fantastic.  Big pieces of fabric and really useful fabrics go into the production/class stash.  Tools go into the communal tool kit, to be used by students who can’t afford their own.  Smaller lengths go into the stock of fabrics for students to practice with (our general rule is ‘if you’re going to use it right now, you can have it.  If you’re just going to horde it…leave it in the communal horde please!).  Things we really can’t use get set aside for sales.  

Here are some patternmaking half-scale models made from donated fabric (it was a dye job that went wrong and made the fabric too delicate for real clothes):

Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School Costuming

Any money raised from sales, or saved from from our running budget because we didn’t have to buy the fabric, goes towards helping students, or supporting programming we otherwise couldn’t afford (like the extant costume research room for costumers that we’re working on…)

Schools not your thing?  How about…

Fabric-a-Brac  

Fabric-a-brac is a fabric sale that supports charities across NZ, particularly Hospice NZ.  

At the moment there are Fabric-a-bracs sales that happen in Wellington, Auckland, Palmerston North and the Wairarapa (but they are always hoping for organisers in new locations).

If you have a lot of stuff you want to clear out, and you want to make a little money off of it, you can apply to have a table at the next Fabric-a-brac near you.  Hospice gets the table-fee (the amount depends on the size of your table), and you get any profits.  

Or…you can just donate your stuff to the Fabric-a-brac organisers, and they sell it to fabric (or yarn, or whatever) lovers!  All the money goes to charity, and you don’t have to worry about it at all.

They have information on donating and applying for a table on their site.  

No Fabric-a-bracs near you?  Try…

Sewing Machines & Goods for Refugees

The NZ Red Cross coordinates refugee resettlement in NZ, and often have migrants who love to sew or make, but don’t have a sewing machine, or materials.  Donations of machines and goods can help NZ feel more like home for them.  

Sacraparental organises donations of sewing machines and other crafting goods for the Red Cross.  Follow the information on her blog on how to contact her, and she’ll match your donations to someone who will love them.    

As she states, please don’t contact the Red Cross directly about this – we’re trying not to give them more work!

Quilting and Embroidery Guilds  

Another great place to donate goods is quilting and embroidery groups, if there are any in your area.  They often have sewing-based charitable activities that donated goods can be used for, or can fund.  

For example, the Wellington Quilters rely on donations to run Shut-in-Stitchers at Arohata Prison, where they teach patchwork and quilting.  It’s the longest running volunteer programme in a NZ prison, and the programme both gives women skills for life out of prison, and supports them while in it.  The Wellington Quilters also make quilts for premature babies born in the Wellington region.  

Op-Shops  

I’ve put this last on the list, because it’s the most obvious, so you’ve probably thought of it yourself.  It also comes with a caveat: while op-shops can be a great place to donate sewing items, they can also be a terrible place to do so.  

Some op-shops have a volunteer or staff member with sewing know-how, and do a excellent job of packaging and pricing fabric, machines, and notions.  Others…don’t.  

I always ask if they have fabric and sewing things when I visit an op shop, and the amount of times I’ve heard ‘oh, no one buys it so we just send it to the shredder’, or ‘we take patterns, because we can use the tissues for wrapping china, but nothing else’, is heart-wrenching as a maker.  Other shops price fabrics at more than it sells for new (and then wonder why they don’t sell, and eventually send them to the shredder – in one particularly galling case), or wrap them up with packing tape, thus destroying delicate fabrics.  

Some op shops simply don’t want fabrics because they don’t have the staff to measure and price it.  And only shops with an electrician to test them can accept sewing machines.

So if you’re going to donate sewing goods to an op shop, call and check to make sure they take it before you drop it by.  

There are definitely some shops that do a great job though – far more than do a bad job, and far more than I can list!  Here are a few suggestions:

  • Vinnies Re Sew are a dedicated sewing charity (though you have to donate to them directly, not just to any Vinnies shop).  
  • Whenever I end up with fabric I don’t want I donate it to Opportunity for Animals, because the Wellington manager is a sewist, and they price fabric so it’s the exact right balance of affordable for buyers and a good fundraiser for them.  (also the Newtown branch is super convenient for my work 🤣)
  • Both the Mary Potter Hospice and Sallies shops usually do a great job with fabric, because they have large volunteer staffs.  My faves of the Wellington ones are Mary Potter Newlands and Sallies Miramar & Karori (although this last one has an annoying habit of packaging up 6 different pieces in one big bag, so you buy the whole bag for that one piece you really want…and then donate the other 5 to OfA!).  

1930s fabric, fashion magazine, and 40s buttons thedreamstress.com

 

Between all these suggestions hopefully you can find someone to take your stash off your hand and turn it into beautiful things!  

I’m sure there’s lots of places I haven’t thought of.  Tell me about your favourite in the comments!  

*Or at least for a while! I’m sure this list will need updating every few years.