Calamanco (also spelled callimanco, calimanco, and kalamink) is a thin fabric of worsted wool yarn which could come in a number of weaves: plain, satin, damasked, and was even brocaded in floral, striped and checked designs. The surface was glazed or calendered (pressed through hot rollers). References to calamanco go back to the late 16th century, but calamanco’s heyday was from the end of the 17th century to the end of the 18th century. It was a popular fabric for women’s gowns and petticoats and men’s waistcoats, though it was gradually replaced by cotton and linen calico as a dress fabric. Daniel Defoe mentions a petticoat of black calamanco in 1720, and they remained popular among the rural populace until the early 19th century. He also describes the wardrobe of the ‘poorest countryman’ in England and notes his ‘waistcoat of calimanco from Norwich.’ At least in the beginning of the century, calamanco wasn’t confined to the common man’s waistcoat. The Tatler in 1709 describes the wardrobe of the ‘Dapper’. The habit of a Dapper when …
This page is a work-in-progress. Its aim is to provide a brief definition of vintage and historical fashion and textile terms, with links to articles which explore and illustrate the history of the term in more depth. The dates at the end of each definition are the dates in which the term was most commonly used. Have a term you think needs to be included? Or a better definition, or more information? Please leave a comment! ______________________________________________________________ Acetate – a manufactured natural fibre of the rayon family, made from cellulose dissolved in an acetate solution. Variants of acetate are Triacetate and Diacetate. 1900s-present. See also rayon. Aerophane – a fine, slightly crisp, silk gauze, sometimes with a slightly crinkled, crepe appearance, possibly from a silk worm that is now extinct OR a type of ribbon embroidery, where wide, crisp silk strips (originally probably of aerophane) are used to create three dimensional ornamentation, OR any fine, light gauzy fabric. 1830s-50s (fabric), Alamode – a thin, plain tabby weave, lustred silk, usually black. Used mainly for morning …
Originally I was only contracted to make Elizabeth/Madge’s shroud dress for the PorcelainToy White Zombie music video, but a few days before shooting began it became clear that the jacket they had found for Emile to wear as Neil just wasn’t cutting it, so I said I would whip up something. And whip up something was right: I was still making last minute adjustments to the dress and embroidering pearls on it at every opportunity, so I didn’t have a lot of spare time. The jacket was going to have to be fast and easy, and adjustable: I had no time for a fitting! So I had a mad rummage through my fabric stash, came up with some calico/muslin* that was the right colour and handle, and then found a jacket pattern I have used for Mr Dreamy. Luckily Emile of PorcelainToy is almost exactly the same size, so I could be a little less concerned about fit. Even with a good pattern I didn’t have enough time to make a jacket by myself, so …
