All posts tagged: 1660s

Ninon’s dress: covering the bodice

With my bodice finally fitted, boned, and adjusted for non-dorkyness, I could turn my attention to covering it with the fabulous golden yellow duchesse satin (aaAAAAAAAh). I had originally planned to cover the bodice with pieces cut exactly the same as the boned support, so there would be four pieces for each half of the bodice. Then I looked at some of the my inspiration images, and realised that many of them had eliminated the curved side-front seam. You can clearly see the front seam, but Mary’s frock has no curved side seams. It’s impossible to tell if the lady of the Walking Couple has a front seam, but it definitely doesn’t have a side seam. My original inspiration image of Elisabeth of Orleans almost certainly has side seams under those jewels, but I realised that if I didn’t do the side seams, I could always make faux side seams with trim if I wanted that look, but I would also have the option of the smooth sides. So that was that.  The under-bodice has …

Ninon’s dress: angels out of tune

Not everything is going perfectly with the 1660s dress for Ninon.  I think it’s the fabric.  If it’s not golden yellow silk satin, problems are still possible. I mentioned yesterday that the centre front point of the bodice was looking a little dorky. Now, I could have let this go, because, to be perfectly honest, some of the historical examples are pretty dorky themselves. Definitely dorky. But, Maria and her ‘look, my bodice point is so long and dorky I have to sit in a slump with my legs apart’ aside, I didn’t want a dorky dress.  Ninon was not dorky!  I want a beautiful dress! So I took inspiration from some non dorky dresses. Like this one.  It’s a tiny bit dorky, but definitely heading towards the less dorky area. And this one is definitely not dorky.  In fact, I love it. I can’t take inspiration from my main inspiration dress, because Elisabeth has her hands elegantly arranged in her lap,  but I’m pretty sure it doesn’t have a dorky point. To fix my …

Ninon’s dress: boning the bodice

Making a mid 17th century dress is interesting – the bodice is fully boned, so it’s basically a corset with sleeves.  I guess it saves making a corset to go under the outfit 😀 Anyway, this means I had to make an inner boning layer, and figure out a boning pattern to present the right 17th century torso silhouette. For my inner boning layers, I used a fairly rough unbleached linen that I found 4 metres of at an op shop for $5.  This really has been a fortunate dress! For boning, I’m using 3/8″ black plastic cable ties.  Not exactly whalebone, but no-one is offering me a piece of the poor whale that beached itself locally over the weekend (not that I’m really sure I’d take it if they did! And do humpback whales even have the right kind of baleen for boning?) I started researching my boning patterns using two sources: the German bodice, and Norah Waughs 1660s jacket bodice.  Unfortunately, neither was a completely satisfactory guide.   The German bodice pattern was …