All posts tagged: 1780s

18th century Orientalism and Theresa

It was interesting dressing Theresa in the pet-en-l’aire. I always visualize pet-en-l’aires on rounded, full-busted figures, with dimpled arms and round faces: the sort of figures shown in French fashion plates  of the era.  Theresa is tall and slim.  The pet fit her perfectly, but the change in proportions completely changed my perception of the pet-en-l’aire aesthetic.  The pet suddenly looked elegant and exotic, rather than sweet and coquettish.  Theresa in the pet looks like a Gainsborough rather than a fashion plate. To play up the exotic aspect of the pet-en-l’aire, made as it is out of an Indienne chintz, and to worked with Theresa’s features, we focused on the orientalism so fashionable in the 18th century for the styling.  Theresa’s hair is not hedgehog-friendly, so we did a  turbaned headdress, and skipped the full ‘poof’ of petticoats and bumroll. I wish I’d been able to find my proper ostrich feathers, not the skimpy ones I did find, and I still need to trim the pet and find proper silk (or at least rayon) ribbons …

Re-pleating the pet

After deciding that the original linen lining of my 1780s pet-en-l’aire simply wasn’t going to do, I unpicked all my back pleating, put on a soft unbleached cotton lining, and started again. Luckily the pleats from my first pleating were still pressed in, so it made the re-doing process much easier, and the soft cotton was much more amenable and cooperative than the linen I first tried to use was. I’m very happy with the re-do, even if my stitching isn’t absolutely even and perfect.  The silk is very, very tightly woven, hard to stitch through, and shows every stitch that has ever been put in it.  My new stitches are literally exactly the same as my old stitches. With the pleats all hand-sewn in, I bound the top of the pet with a strip of the silk.  I was worried I wouldn’t have enough to fold the binding over, so I cut my binding rather wide, and then of course it was too wide, and isn’t as neat as I would like. Because the …

Pleating the back of the 1780’s chintz pet-en-l’aire

After creating the basic bodice support for my 1780s chintz pet en l’aire, figuring out the general measurements and sewing together my panels of Japanese block-printed obi silk, it was time to pleat the bodice back. First I needed to find a lining fabric, as I planned to completely flat line the silk, as it was so thin.  Thin, crisp unbleached linen?  Sounds perfect. Then for the pleating. My main inspiration garment, the cotton pet from the Manchester City Galleries, has multiple narrow back pleats. I don’t like it.  It’s kinda ridiculous.  The Met pet has a much better back. So that’s what I went for with my back pleating. This is also when I found out that the silk is kind of evil to work with.  It creases, but doesn’t pleat easily and lay nicely.  It’s rather like frizzy hair – you press it down and it just springs back and heads off in its own direction. To get it to work I actually had to unpick some of the panels so that I …