All posts tagged: 1890s

Rate the Dress: Pierre Carrier Belleuse & a cinched waist

Last week’s 1873ish mourning dress did extremely well, coming in at 8.5 out of 10, despite many of you expressing that there was something not quite perfect about it.  Of course, you all thought that different things weren’t perfect: fringe, apron, train, belt, waist, asymmetry, symmetry, dags…everyone had their own complaint! Since this is basically ‘Corset Week’ on the blog (like Shark Week, only with whale teeth, not shark teeth!) I thought I should present a corset heavy (or at least heavily corseted) frock for your consideration. What about a corset worn on the outside?  Pierre Carrier Belleuse painted this intriguing image of a group of woman with the central woman showing off her tightly cinched waist and blue-trimmed blouse. The painting documents such an interesting moment: the act of removing a coat, as well as an interesting time in fashion as styles transitioned from the tightly bodiced and high-shouldered 1890s to the drooping pigeon breasts of the 20th century, and from formal, coordinated bodices and skirts to blouses with interchangeable jackets and skirts. Has …

The 1890s black silk corded corset – progress

I’ve been making good progress on the 1890s black silk corded corset. I got all the evil cording done. I chose to use black threads for the topstitching and bobbin stitching, so there are black cording seam lines all over the pink lining. They are a tiny bit irregular, but I’m letting go of the perfectionism and embracing the organic wobbliness and the graphic pattern they make.  It looks like art.  Perfect would just look like stitching lines. With the cording done, I needed to make sure the pattern pieces were still accurate, and hand’t changed too much with the cording.  You can see how there is white lining fabric showing around all the black pieces: this is because of how the cording ‘shrunk’ the pieces.  I trimmed all the white away and checked each piece against the pattern piece.  It turned out a little smaller than I had planned, but still fits perfectly (yay!) With all the pieces corded & checked, I sewed them together. The pieces get sewed wrong sides together, with the …

Cording is evil (#3)

Cording is evil. After pintucks, and the Briar Rose Corset, cording makes #3 evilness. I’m making an 1890s corded corset.  It’s based on a pattern in Jill Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques. The pattern is kinda weird and insane.  Look at my pattern pieces: Starting from the centre back on the right, it looks totally normal.  Basic princess seam, basic side back princess seam, basic side front princess seam, and then you have your….what the heck is that!?! That, dear readers, is the front piece, with a set in bust. The problem with the set in bust is that 1) it gets set into a 3.5cm opening in the front piece (and I don’t know if you have ever measured one breast, but mine isn’t 3.5cm across!), 2) the original corset was sized for someone very short, with a very large cup size, so needed a lot of resizing, 3), resizing bust cups is horrible and tricky and 4)  once you have figured out all the fitting issues, actually setting in a double bust …